F22_RaptoR
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, Alberta
So this is a project I've been wanting to do for a very long time. Ever since I got my M4s90 over 8 years ago, I've wanted to get a strait stock for it as another option. So after getting a strait stock a good half year ago, and spending quite a bit of time getting parts and components together, I've finally got it finished!
Not only did I cut it down a good deal shorter than most people have done so before, but I also wanted to raise up the back of the stock and have more of a strait comb, which was an exceedingly difficult thing to do considering how the Benelli field stock is made. However it turned out excellent! I also added Noveske QD sling mounts to the rear, and a limbsaver recoil pad, as the factory Benelli one was nowhere near the right size to fit, and a section of picatinny rail for a shell carrier at the back... Lastly I actually built the GG&G single point sling loop into the stock, as I had to change the angle at the front for changing the stock angle overall.
I'll put the pics up here, and put a little more detailed description below as to what exactly went into doing all the stock mods; for those that are curious about it. It'll be a bit of a read if you're bored!
I didn't take more pictures of the process as I didn't want to do a how-to... this is WAY above what most people are capable of, and changing the stock this much should be left to experienced gunsmiths and hobbyists.
So the first major thing I did was decide what the length was that I wanted the stock to be. At 14.5" LOP it's far too long for me to shoot without a very bladed stance. So the final measure was 12-1/4" once everything was cut down. I cut just over 2 inches off the back of the stock, which presents some problems...
Firstly you have to take out the so-called "Gender Bender" which allows the stock to be screwed on and off without tools... There was a great write-up online on how to do this, but the simple version is you need 2x M8.0 x 1.0 (fine thread) metric nuts which are a major pain to find locally. You use a 13mm socket and an extension to put them onto the protruding stud inside the stock, the first just touching the end of the threads at the bottom, then the second as a lock-nut which HAS to be timed well enough that you can slip the socket over both. Once locked on, you remove the lock-nut from the BACK SIDE of the stock, and you can start removing the threaded post from inside. There are a bunch of little spring washers which gives you some extra freedom tightening the stock... Once all that is out, you can remove the rear sling plate (and if it tickles your fancy you can now install the MESA tactical 4-shot shell carrier as you would with an M1/M2)
After the gender bender is gone, you can cut the stock down. 13" seems to be pretty comfortable for most people, which also allows you to use a piece of wood inside the stock to bolt the recoil pad onto, but I wanted mine shorter... (about 1/4" back from the rearmost part of the sling plate cutout). After some figuring I decided I wanted to change the angle of the stock too, for a shotgun with ghost ring iron sights there's no point in having such an aggressively dropped comb, which isn't comfortable to shoot with slugs and buckshot IMHO. This also lowers the bore in relation to your shoulder and reduces the jump....
So changing the angle was the most intensive part of the stock. Using a 1/4" drill bit I drilled a hole into the sling plate below the "main" hole centered about 8-9mm down from the bottom edge of the first hole...(right in between the main hole and the lower edge). Putting it back into the stock and clamping it with a padded vice; I then i used a 1/4" diameter 12" long aircraft drill bit and a 7/8 hole saw (and a driver extension.... talk about a string of tools!) to bore the recoil tube hole open until about 1/2" from the sling plate (if you go too far down you risk cutting open the angled sections in front of the sling plate!) This gives the recoil tube a place to go, and in this case there is TONS of material inside the stock so there's no worry about removing the extra plastic. Next the rear sling plate needs to have the 1/4" hole opened up to 8mm (or a little bigger) and then have the front facing side angled slightly more upwards so the bolt/stud sits at the right angle when you re-install it. It needed about 0.5mm at the top of the new hole ground down to 0.0mm at the bottom... This could easily be done with an angled shim, but I had a flat-faced counterbore and used an 8mm insert for a case neck trimmer to centre it! Pretty easy.
Once I had clearance for the stock to fit, I needed to fit the front end of the stock to the receiver. (the stock isn't the best fit anyways) Took some measurements and used a band saw with a fence to make a precise cut just slightly oversized. (taking into consideration the GG&G sling point) The rest I sanded off using a flat slab of marble and test fitted against the receiver until no light could get through (a feeler gauge also helps!). This was fairly important as that's a major recoil transfer point, and I didn't want the stock going loose. I used some countersunk wood screws and epoxied the sling plate to the stock, once the stock is on the receivers lock nut and the stock compression make this rock solid! Installing the little section of picatinny rail was pretty easy, just fit it to the bottom to the stock and used steel Tee nuts to anchor it against impacts. Epoxied everything together...
The last part was to make a stock insert to bolt the recoil pad into, I have seen people pour epoxy into the stock with the back taped off, then drill and tap this, but I wanted something better, so I 3D printed a stock re-enforcement out of Nylon and recessed it for some stainless steel threaded studs! The piece I made needed a LOT of fitting, as it's hard to judge how the angles change inside the stock, but this was a good 90% solution.
Here is the piece out of the printer from Shapeways...
And once the stainless steel inserts were epoxied onto the nylon piece, a test fitting:
Once it was fitted I had to install the Noveske QD cups, which needed to have the insides shaved down a bit to make room for the recoil tube. (this was only possible as I had moved the recoil tube down inside the stock, this wouldn't be possible with the recoil tube going through the middle of the stock as it normally does) The inside of the stock was also recessed for the square nut they include. The stock is over 1/4" thick where I put these QD mounts in, so again... lots of meat. Once those were fitted the 3D printed piece was epoxied in and left to cure. Lastly I could re-install the gender Bender thingy (although at this point you could use an M8x1.0 bolt in from the back) and make final test fits to make sure it fit and functioned perfect. A coat of paint and a few days wait for it to cure, and that's it...
Thanks for looking!
Not only did I cut it down a good deal shorter than most people have done so before, but I also wanted to raise up the back of the stock and have more of a strait comb, which was an exceedingly difficult thing to do considering how the Benelli field stock is made. However it turned out excellent! I also added Noveske QD sling mounts to the rear, and a limbsaver recoil pad, as the factory Benelli one was nowhere near the right size to fit, and a section of picatinny rail for a shell carrier at the back... Lastly I actually built the GG&G single point sling loop into the stock, as I had to change the angle at the front for changing the stock angle overall.
I'll put the pics up here, and put a little more detailed description below as to what exactly went into doing all the stock mods; for those that are curious about it. It'll be a bit of a read if you're bored!
I didn't take more pictures of the process as I didn't want to do a how-to... this is WAY above what most people are capable of, and changing the stock this much should be left to experienced gunsmiths and hobbyists.
So the first major thing I did was decide what the length was that I wanted the stock to be. At 14.5" LOP it's far too long for me to shoot without a very bladed stance. So the final measure was 12-1/4" once everything was cut down. I cut just over 2 inches off the back of the stock, which presents some problems...
Firstly you have to take out the so-called "Gender Bender" which allows the stock to be screwed on and off without tools... There was a great write-up online on how to do this, but the simple version is you need 2x M8.0 x 1.0 (fine thread) metric nuts which are a major pain to find locally. You use a 13mm socket and an extension to put them onto the protruding stud inside the stock, the first just touching the end of the threads at the bottom, then the second as a lock-nut which HAS to be timed well enough that you can slip the socket over both. Once locked on, you remove the lock-nut from the BACK SIDE of the stock, and you can start removing the threaded post from inside. There are a bunch of little spring washers which gives you some extra freedom tightening the stock... Once all that is out, you can remove the rear sling plate (and if it tickles your fancy you can now install the MESA tactical 4-shot shell carrier as you would with an M1/M2)
After the gender bender is gone, you can cut the stock down. 13" seems to be pretty comfortable for most people, which also allows you to use a piece of wood inside the stock to bolt the recoil pad onto, but I wanted mine shorter... (about 1/4" back from the rearmost part of the sling plate cutout). After some figuring I decided I wanted to change the angle of the stock too, for a shotgun with ghost ring iron sights there's no point in having such an aggressively dropped comb, which isn't comfortable to shoot with slugs and buckshot IMHO. This also lowers the bore in relation to your shoulder and reduces the jump....
So changing the angle was the most intensive part of the stock. Using a 1/4" drill bit I drilled a hole into the sling plate below the "main" hole centered about 8-9mm down from the bottom edge of the first hole...(right in between the main hole and the lower edge). Putting it back into the stock and clamping it with a padded vice; I then i used a 1/4" diameter 12" long aircraft drill bit and a 7/8 hole saw (and a driver extension.... talk about a string of tools!) to bore the recoil tube hole open until about 1/2" from the sling plate (if you go too far down you risk cutting open the angled sections in front of the sling plate!) This gives the recoil tube a place to go, and in this case there is TONS of material inside the stock so there's no worry about removing the extra plastic. Next the rear sling plate needs to have the 1/4" hole opened up to 8mm (or a little bigger) and then have the front facing side angled slightly more upwards so the bolt/stud sits at the right angle when you re-install it. It needed about 0.5mm at the top of the new hole ground down to 0.0mm at the bottom... This could easily be done with an angled shim, but I had a flat-faced counterbore and used an 8mm insert for a case neck trimmer to centre it! Pretty easy.
Once I had clearance for the stock to fit, I needed to fit the front end of the stock to the receiver. (the stock isn't the best fit anyways) Took some measurements and used a band saw with a fence to make a precise cut just slightly oversized. (taking into consideration the GG&G sling point) The rest I sanded off using a flat slab of marble and test fitted against the receiver until no light could get through (a feeler gauge also helps!). This was fairly important as that's a major recoil transfer point, and I didn't want the stock going loose. I used some countersunk wood screws and epoxied the sling plate to the stock, once the stock is on the receivers lock nut and the stock compression make this rock solid! Installing the little section of picatinny rail was pretty easy, just fit it to the bottom to the stock and used steel Tee nuts to anchor it against impacts. Epoxied everything together...
The last part was to make a stock insert to bolt the recoil pad into, I have seen people pour epoxy into the stock with the back taped off, then drill and tap this, but I wanted something better, so I 3D printed a stock re-enforcement out of Nylon and recessed it for some stainless steel threaded studs! The piece I made needed a LOT of fitting, as it's hard to judge how the angles change inside the stock, but this was a good 90% solution.
Here is the piece out of the printer from Shapeways...
And once the stainless steel inserts were epoxied onto the nylon piece, a test fitting:
Once it was fitted I had to install the Noveske QD cups, which needed to have the insides shaved down a bit to make room for the recoil tube. (this was only possible as I had moved the recoil tube down inside the stock, this wouldn't be possible with the recoil tube going through the middle of the stock as it normally does) The inside of the stock was also recessed for the square nut they include. The stock is over 1/4" thick where I put these QD mounts in, so again... lots of meat. Once those were fitted the 3D printed piece was epoxied in and left to cure. Lastly I could re-install the gender Bender thingy (although at this point you could use an M8x1.0 bolt in from the back) and make final test fits to make sure it fit and functioned perfect. A coat of paint and a few days wait for it to cure, and that's it...
Thanks for looking!
Last edited:
