Best adhesive for a (nearly) invisible crack fix???
- Thread starter Silverado
- Start date
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
Go to a boating supply store.
Get some "Creeping Crack Cure". Spreads via capillary action and is as hard as fiberglass when dry. Comes in a plastic squeeze bottle.
Get some "Creeping Crack Cure". Spreads via capillary action and is as hard as fiberglass when dry. Comes in a plastic squeeze bottle.
I think it'll have to be a glue and clamp job, as the crack is all the way through the very thin wood behind the takedown catch.
I was honestly thinking cabinetmaker's glue, as I've used it before (lots) but am skeptical that it will bond as the wood has been finished, and I'm pretty sure the finish is all the way through at that thin spot.
I was honestly thinking cabinetmaker's glue, as I've used it before (lots) but am skeptical that it will bond as the wood has been finished, and I'm pretty sure the finish is all the way through at that thin spot.
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I may know a thing or two about this stuff 
Go to Lee Valley Tools (leevalley.com) and order a bottle of "hot stuff" Cyanoacrylate glue (product # 56Z90.01)
Heres the important part: Wax the outside of the wood with paste wax (this protects the finish from being affected if the glue seeps through), then apply the glue to the INSIDE of the stock. No need to clamp unless the crack is open...if you DO need to clamp it, don't use clamps. use several wraps of surgical tubing or 5-6 good hard wraps with packing tape.
or
Send it to my shop and get out your chequebook
Go to Lee Valley Tools (leevalley.com) and order a bottle of "hot stuff" Cyanoacrylate glue (product # 56Z90.01)
Heres the important part: Wax the outside of the wood with paste wax (this protects the finish from being affected if the glue seeps through), then apply the glue to the INSIDE of the stock. No need to clamp unless the crack is open...if you DO need to clamp it, don't use clamps. use several wraps of surgical tubing or 5-6 good hard wraps with packing tape.
or
Send it to my shop and get out your chequebook
Ryan,
Have used GALLONS of 'Hot Stuff' in the past... my dad was an RC Modeler.
Do you prefer the thin stuff, or the thick gel type? Any thoughts on the accelerant?
I didn't really consider it, just because I imagined having to wipe it away, and what a mess that would make.
Have used GALLONS of 'Hot Stuff' in the past... my dad was an RC Modeler.
Do you prefer the thin stuff, or the thick gel type? Any thoughts on the accelerant?
I didn't really consider it, just because I imagined having to wipe it away, and what a mess that would make.
I may know a thing or two about this stuff
Go to Lee Valley Tools (leevalley.com) and order a bottle of "hot stuff" Cyanoacrylate glue (product # 56Z90.01)
Heres the important part: Wax the outside of the wood with paste wax (this protects the finish from being affected if the glue seeps through), then apply the glue to the INSIDE of the stock. No need to clamp unless the crack is open...if you DO need to clamp it, don't use clamps. use several wraps of surgical tubing or 5-6 good hard wraps with packing tape.
or
Send it to my shop and get out your chequebook
ie very thin, liquid Crazy glue...it works
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Holy cow Jamie! What....did you miss the last high house and get pissed off and throw it?!?!
OK, I change my answer...I didn't realize it was an open crack....that actually makes things easier. Heres whatcha do: Rinse out the crack with rubbing alcohol and let dry. Squeeze the crap out of it and with the crack COMPLETELY closed, give the outside a good coat of paste wax. Nows the gluing...I can't see if the oil finish has gone completely through the wood, but if it hasn't just use Type III PVA glue (titebond III) and clamp it with the rubber/packing tape like I said earlier.
If the finish has completely penetrated, pick up some polyurethane glue (some swear by "gorrilla glue", I like the Lepage, but all poly glues are pretty much the same thing). Mist the inside of the crack with water (important), apply the glue, and then re-clamp. You'll see a bunch of foam oozing out around the crack, but dont freak out. This is the glue curing and it scrapes off easy enough.
or
See option "B" above
OK, I change my answer...I didn't realize it was an open crack....that actually makes things easier. Heres whatcha do: Rinse out the crack with rubbing alcohol and let dry. Squeeze the crap out of it and with the crack COMPLETELY closed, give the outside a good coat of paste wax. Nows the gluing...I can't see if the oil finish has gone completely through the wood, but if it hasn't just use Type III PVA glue (titebond III) and clamp it with the rubber/packing tape like I said earlier.
If the finish has completely penetrated, pick up some polyurethane glue (some swear by "gorrilla glue", I like the Lepage, but all poly glues are pretty much the same thing). Mist the inside of the crack with water (important), apply the glue, and then re-clamp. You'll see a bunch of foam oozing out around the crack, but dont freak out. This is the glue curing and it scrapes off easy enough.
or
See option "B" above
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
That is a very nice crack! Probabl one of the most easiest cracks to repair. Gorilla Glue is another option, but I would use professional grade wood glue and a clamp. Crack should disappear.
Thanks for the advice guys.
@ Wrong Way: As bizarre as this sounds, I missed it when I (briefly) inspected the gun on buying it. I didn't assemble the gun, just looked at it in parts at the seller's residence, pronounced it good, and away I went. The seller said he would try for a warranty claim as the gun is fairly new, but I haven't heard from him, and bird season starts this weekend...
@ Wrong Way: As bizarre as this sounds, I missed it when I (briefly) inspected the gun on buying it. I didn't assemble the gun, just looked at it in parts at the seller's residence, pronounced it good, and away I went. The seller said he would try for a warranty claim as the gun is fairly new, but I haven't heard from him, and bird season starts this weekend...
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Ummm...no.
*if* the finish has penetrated the fill thickness, he is now dealing with the equivelent of an "oily exotic"...think teak or cocobolo. "proffesional grade" glue (BTW, Titebond III is the only pro-grade glue that should be used on a gun. unnafected by moisture and solvents....but it's 39.00 a bottle) will only glue it half assed. If the finish has gone through he needs a poly glue...nothing else really glues oily woods better.
Also, NO clamps! Regular clamps are made for clamping regular surfaces, a forend is NOT a regular surface. Surgical tubing or packing tape (with multiple wraps) is the way to go. Clamping pressure increases with each subsequent wrap, won't mar the finish, and most importantly delivers even, linear pressure to the surfaces.
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I was actually referring to the post above mine, but since you brought it up....
Heres the thing....Its a long grain crack, so you want to build alot of pressure, and green tape aint gonna do it. You need something with a hard stretch to build the poundage. I use surgical tubing, but packing tape works well. Each wrap you do increases the pressure exponetially. If you want another alternative: Saran Wrap. Grab a roll and start wrapping while pulling the crap out of it. You'll be amazed at how much pressure 10 wraps will give. (For kicks, have someone wrap your wrists 4-5 times and see what happens....have a knife handy)
Heres the thing....Its a long grain crack, so you want to build alot of pressure, and green tape aint gonna do it. You need something with a hard stretch to build the poundage. I use surgical tubing, but packing tape works well. Each wrap you do increases the pressure exponetially. If you want another alternative: Saran Wrap. Grab a roll and start wrapping while pulling the crap out of it. You'll be amazed at how much pressure 10 wraps will give. (For kicks, have someone wrap your wrists 4-5 times and see what happens....have a knife handy)
OOOOHHHH! I've got lots of that stretchy packing wrap. I bet that'll do 'er!
I was thinking that I should mount the forend and then wrap. Otherwise, the pressure at the top will want to pull the crack apart. Your thoughts?
Where does a guy buy surgical tubing from? I can't seem to find a smack addict handy at the moment...
I was thinking that I should mount the forend and then wrap. Otherwise, the pressure at the top will want to pull the crack apart. Your thoughts?
Where does a guy buy surgical tubing from? I can't seem to find a smack addict handy at the moment...
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Youu can get surgical tubing from Lee Valley, Brownells, the shady looking guy on the corner..........
LOL. You'll have to play with it and do a "dry run" clamping to see what works best. If using the tape, only exert pressure on the wrap as you are going around the bottom.
Ryan
STOP EVERYTHING!
Before you glue it and ruin your oportunity to do so, have you contacted your closest Ruger repair facility?
the Red Label is a $2000+ shotgun and is backed by a pretty good warranty and service network. If you didn't abuse the gun, and it cracked, that's a defect in workmanship and they mayt well replace the forestock for you for free.
If you monkey with glue, etc. they will NEVER cover ANYTHING on that gun.
Before trying anything, try to get it replaced for free.
Before you glue it and ruin your oportunity to do so, have you contacted your closest Ruger repair facility?
the Red Label is a $2000+ shotgun and is backed by a pretty good warranty and service network. If you didn't abuse the gun, and it cracked, that's a defect in workmanship and they mayt well replace the forestock for you for free.
If you monkey with glue, etc. they will NEVER cover ANYTHING on that gun.
Before trying anything, try to get it replaced for free.
