Best caliber for moose that meets the following criteria?

Thank you VLT79 for setting this right... you see it right about my posting.
English is not my First Language. As all of you we are all emigrants, first or second or third generation, and all are equals...

To get this one right...
I'm a men, and i'm proud to be part of this forum. Lots of good guys here, and as you notice, changes are hard to be accepted...
What I post is TRUE... NO LIES, and i will stay behind them. I know is hard to believe somebody can do it, or other can do it EVEN IS OTHER CAN'T

As you notice on my profile I posted there LONG RANGE HUNTING - and I mean It...
I learn something today... helping a fellow member with good advices, and try to get his head over, and to guide him to the right path, saving him thousands of money invested on wrong equipment, and possible loosing 8-10years of draw priority IS MEAN NOTHING...
I'm a person who always learned from others mistakes... and sometimes my BIG HART (trying to help) is getting against me.

Thank you for your post... and trying to get it right.

In the world are 3 types of persons...
1. The ones who learn from their mistakes
2. The one who learn from others mistakes
3. The one who never learn.

Thank you.... I promised I will try to stay neutral on this forum from now on.


VLT79 said:
Buddy, you're about as arrogant as he/she is right now, not to mention a little ignorant too! Since when does "post count" and feedback rating have anything to do with real world experience??? Take offence if you want...I'm calling it as I see it! Just because he/she's a newbie to the forum doesn't mean he/she doesn't have experience behind the trigger and to believe so and state so is foolishness! Secondly, a person's birth place has nothing to do with his/her arrogance. As an English person (Scottish to be more precise) that was born and raised in Eastern Quebec I can tell you I've met far more arrogant and ignorant people in Alberta than anywhere else in the country but that doesn't give me the right to throw every Albertan into the same boat because the majority are indeed decent people...same rule applies to every other province!

Personally, I think Edge338 is full of it as well...but certainly not because he/she has bad grammar or because he/she is a newbie...simply because what he/she wrote appears to have been copied and pasted! Not to mention that all but one of the yardages given were rounded to the nearest tenth...that seldom happens in the real world and if you actually keep track you never round off!
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I know I signed off this thread, but I will address VLT79's comments.................You are correct in all that you say, he got my hackles up and I wrote before thinking. Given the experience and expertise in the advice already given in this thread, by guys who have hunted for decades and harvested 100s if not 1000s of animals, for him to come on, out of the blue, and declare himself the only one who "has got it right"...........well let's just say it raised my ire. You are correct in your statement that being new to this forum does not necessarily mean the person is new to shooting or hunting and his heritage does not necessarily account for his arrogance.
My apologies to all for my less than tactful post..............BUT I still call BS!!!
 
At the end, if you master your 308 while hunting /shooting, it make you a more lethal hunter than just relying on the feeling of being a top shooter / hunter because you use a mega caliber... In my book that is... JP.
 
Yes I have 15 years of competitive shooting, and more then 13 years of hunting in CANADA.
All my kills up to date are between 400-1320yards on deer (1320yrd, 1200yrd, 980yrds, and lots lots between400-800yards)
Bull Elk - 870 yrd, cow elk 507yrd, cow elk - 380yrds) Bull Moose 804yards
Coyotes - 1100yrds, 800yrds, 600yrds, 400yards.
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this certainly bears repeating. A list of very impressive feats! I presume that the "yrd" is like the one I knew as having 3 feet in it eg a yd

Edge338 is one guy who wont have any problem with the hunter shooting qualification test endorsed by VLT79 on another thread.
 
It's been a while since I looked at this post (I made a comment back on page one).

To dpo2o, I hope you read our assorted offerings, then make your own decision.

To the "one" who has discounted all the opinions, and experience of the other members who have contributed to this post, shame on you.

All the best dpo2o:)
 
:cheers:"I promised I will try to stay neutral on this forum from now on."

I disagree Edge, the only thing you should make sure happens is that you have fun! Most of the stuff written on here is f:P: - that's what makes it entertaining!

Welcome to the forum!
 
CreamySmooth said:
On a poor one... Moose go a few hundred, stop and lay down. Elk go.... And go.... And go.... I've shot many moose, elk, deer, mule deer and even a few antelope. Nothing lays down as soon as a moose, nothing goes as far as an elk. As well, a bull elk in rut that's rolled in mud... And driven that mud deep into the hair to harden, well, moose flesh doesn't even get close.
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One man's opinion and experience doesn't represent every hunter's experience (and therefore opinion). Many a moose that didn't drop on the spot has had to be pulled out , or dressed out in frigid-ice water from a lake or river!

Bob

www.bigbores.ca
 
Wrong Way said:
Somebody should give that guy one of Caramel's rifles.....although I don't know if there is a range on the planet that could handle that much awesome.:)
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caramel said:
It is gonna be a 308... JP.
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crazy_davey said:
Never mind the range, CGN cant handle that much awesome ;)
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Holy Sh!t!! I was gonna stay outta this but this is just too freakin' funny!!
thank you! ROFLOL!!

I have yet had the absolute need to shoot an animal beyond 600yds, and that, only once. Longest shot in 10 yrs was this year. Huge buck at 364yds (ranged with a Bushnell Sport 850, BEFORE the shot). HAD to take it, he was chasing a doe who had gone back into the wood line and he was next, but spent just a little too much time sniffing. My '06 did just fine, as it did at almost 600yds 20 yrs ago. Everything else has been well under 300yds and the .308 will shine there without "premium" bullets.

Moose, elk, bear, deer, 'yotes, sheep...they're all going down if you practice enough to put the shot where it counts. And most of my game has fallen to bulk cup and core bullets in a .303, .30-30, .308, .30-06.

I consider myself to be a decent long distance shot and I've shot a few 1000yd rounds (NOT with my rifle, but a .308 nonetheless) but 1/2mile shots on game just are not my cup of tea...someone's gotta go get that dang thang and it AIN'T gonna be me, I have tracked all the elk I want to for miles and miles, AFTER WALKING 2 miles to get to where it was hit! Nope, you wanna take that sh!t shot, then YOU find it and pack it out!
 
bigborefan said:
One man's opinion and experience doesn't represent every hunter's experience (and therefore opinion). Many a moose that didn't drop on the spot has had to be pulled out , or dressed out in frigid-ice water from a lake or river!

Bob

www.bigbores.ca
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Too true! IMHO, Having to bone out a moose or elk in the field ruins the best chance the meat has to season. I would rather half kill myself keeping it to where I can get at it, than having it fall someplace where I gotta bone it out as the hide freezes in knee deep water. Two years ago a buddy shot a moose in muskeg, and I t went deeper, he decided to drag a boat across the 'keg, pole out to the moose, hook a rope to it, hook a Cable on it, hook up to a winch, and drag it out with a truck. Guess what? Didn't move, wound up taping rain gear to our boots, wading out and gutting it, turned it around, hooked up the gear, THEN we could pull it out! Too much work. Shoot them hard, shoot them again, one more time before they get back in the woods!
 
dpo2o said:
Hi Guys,

I am looking to pick your brains about what is the flattest shooting, lowest recoil but still suitable for moose round? I presently have a Tikka T3 Lite in .308 ...snip...
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Have you considered adding weight to the stock of your Tikka T3 Lite in addition to the Limbsaver? Drill and fill with lead. The caliber is fine. This may be one option to consider.
 
Gun5tuff said:
Have you considered adding weight to the stock of your Tikka T3 Lite in addition to the Limbsaver? Drill and fill with lead. The caliber is fine. This may be one option to consider.
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I think the OP is using this as an excuse to get another rifle (hell, I use it all the time).

'Shoot them hard, shoot them again, one more time before they get back in the woods!' My sentiments exactly!
 
edge338 said:
Wow... I'm amazed 7 pages of replays and nobody got it right.
No offense please...
We just try to help a fellow members here...

1st. - Nobody asked how far away is expecting to shoot the moose
2nd - any caliber will do the job at shorter range (up to 2-300 yards)
As soon you push the distance - a lot of small caliber will NOT do the job done...
For moose /big game you need 1400flb energy and 1800fps or 1500fps speed to open reliable
Preferable 180gr minimum weight bullet SMK or Berger OTM

Using a ballistics software will give you the maximum distance what you can achieve this speeds.
Based on the energy and speed you can choose the RIGHT caliber to do the job done.

Any 7rm loaded with 180gr Berger OTM or 180gr SMK at 2900-3000 fps will get you at 800yards for a MOOSE
If you are planning to go further 800-1200yards - you will need to step up to 300WM, Or 300WSM or 300RUM using 240gr SMK
If you are really pushing it at extreme - you have to step up to big 338's - 338RUM 338 Edge or plain 338 Lapua - using 300gr SMK's or 300Berger OTM

Yes you can kill a moose with lighter ammo, but you want it done in less then 20-30feet. To achieve that you need to get perfect shoot placement, lots of kinetic energy (from 180gr - 300gr bullets)
If you are shooting behind the shoulder and miscalculate or the wind is pushing it on the shoulder blade or bone - your lighter bullets will not broke the bone, and you will have a limping moose what will run for days.
That is the reason why you have to step up to 7rm, 300wm, or 338's using the heaviest round possible.

Don't be afraid about big rifle... they are not kickers unless you get them really light.
1. You will need to replace the butstock with limbsaver.
2. if you hunt alone for the moose and you want to see the shots through scope you have to install a very good muzzlebrake
3. your rifle will end up around 10-12lb
4. You will need a rangefinder and strong knowledge using a ballistic software passing 300yards.
5. Your scope need at the upper end 16-20x power to take shoots at 800 and beyound
6. you have to practice shooting of the backpack, bipod and shooting sticks. Sometimes the willow are so tall, your bipod will be useless and you have to improvise using tripod or a tree.
7. Make sure you are practice in this way, and stay away from bechrest shooting. (your rifle will react different and the group will open up a lot)
8. get a rangefinder what will range in show, rain, fog up to 1200-1500yards (you have to spend a lot of money on swarowsky or zeiss)
Leica will stop ranging at 600-800 yards on snow or rain day
9. you have to do a proper bedding and free floating the barrel to acheave the best group 1/2 MOA or 0.5MOA to be able to stretch it up to 800yard.

I hope the above will help you choose the right equipment.
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Biggest pile of moose buttons I have ever read on this site.
 
1899 said:
IMO the 7mm RM is the best compromise for flat shooting, good power and reasonable recoil. The one caveat is that you should reload for best performance.

Find one is a Vanguard S2 and you will have accuracy and very manageable recoil in a reasonably priced package.
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IMO, the 7mm RM is no better or worse than a 30-06. And that's why it's manageable in recoil and why most people can shoot it well. Comparing similar bullet weights there is very little practical difference in ballistics, except that the 7mm mag uses more powder.
 
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