Best case lube method to reduce friction

Mudduck

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#1. Well I started with RCBS case lube and pad - worked okay but dang stuff is sticky
#2 Tried Hornady One Shot which is good but just don't spray cases on a floor where people regularly walk.... Slippery floors!
#3 Recent tried Imperial Dry graphite media graphite for the case neck and Imperial sizing wax for the body. Stick case neck into graphite media and then have a bit of Imperial wax on your fingers which lubes the body.

I have found this to be the best way so far for reducing friction especially inside the neck and is faster then #1 and just as fast as #2

I think you could make your own dry lube neck media by using very small #12 "lead" shot in a small container along with some powdered graphite which can be purchased from Princess Auto.

whats your preference for luring brass for sizing and why
 
I still use Lee lube, it works but not very slippery. I hate One Shot, it works good but the smell makes me feel sick and groggy, plus I have to use latex gloves for handling. I've been meaning to pick up some liquid lanolin and rubbing alcohol to use in a pump spray bottle. I hear mixtures as lean as 12:1 work well plus lanolin is good for your skin. Beats carcinogenic lubes any day lol. I avoid anything that will contaminate primers or powder, I clean my brass before sizing and don't want to have to thoroughly clean it afterwards. With Lee lube I just wipe each piece with a rag as it comes out of the press, no need to clean inside the neck.
 
i use 1 part lee lube to 15-20 plus parts 99% rubbing alchol. you have to shake it before you use it as it separates pretty quick. give it a few minutes for the alchol to evaporate and your good to go. it does leave a bit of residue though on the case, i've wondered about mixing more alchol in and see how it lubes then.

that being said, i've only reloaded 50x 7.62x54r and 50x 7.5x55.
 
been through this too...even did the shot/powdered graphite routine but it was terrible messy

using Lee lube now...not a stuck case yet and easy clean up.
use an old .22 cleaning mop for inside case necks...a pipe cleaner works too...
 
I've been using Imperial Sizing Wax for about 10 yrs now. Just rub a little on with my fingers. I tumble all my cases and have found that I don't need to lube inside the neck in most instances. Wipe off the cases with a paper towel dampened with a little varsol after sizing.

I have found the Imperial Wax to work great for case forming as well .Have made lots of 3006 into 7.7 Jap. Not much effort required. I do inside lube the necks when case forming. Also 284 into 7.5 swiss and 6.5x55 to 7.5 MAS before these cases became more available.
 
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I use Hornady Unique Case Lube. One method that seems to be the quickest for me (also dirtiest prob) I grab a small handful of cases, all oriented in the same direction, take a little bit of lube and wipe it off along the necks, roll cases between both hands and size away. Grab the next set of cases and roll between hands, usually there's residual lube so you only need to add more lube every couple handfuls. You end up with a pile of sized cases and slippery palms... hummmm....
 
I have been using the home brewed method of mixing a very strong cleaning alcohol and liquid lanolin. Super cheap to make, works fantastic and very easy to clean off. I load for over 12 different calibers so I must keep my costs down. If you don't want to make your own, the Lee stuff is very good .
 
I use spray silicone lube, available at all your friendly auto part store. The stuff is slippery but not sticky. I put the case I want to FL in a plastic grocery bag, spray some lube on it and tumble them all at once. You can size em right away or let dry. Your choice. Work well with 30-06, 308 win and 303 brit. I dunno about the big magnum case but I guess it would work just as well. Good stuff.

Frank
 
Newbie reloader here. This is a subject on which I researched before reloading rifle rounds for the first time (started with .45acp). I did not want to try 5 different methods before finding one that worked and I ended up going with Imperial Sizing Wax also. Where it differs for me, is that I dip the case neck (every 10 rounds) in the wax. Unfortunately, this does leave a fair amount of sizing wax that I have to remove before charging the cases, which I accomplish with a 30 min tumbler ride. It's an additionnal step that I don't mind for the moment since I've only reloaded 100X .223 rounds, but I could see it being a pain in the a** if I were to reload in the thousands.
 
Imperial wax for the outside, pill bottle with graphite and small shot for the neck. No fuss, no muss, no sticking.
 
I use Lee lube or lee lube+alcohol for doing bulk cases.

For 50BMG I use ISO VG 68 way oil (Mobil Vactra #2 to be specific).
 
I've been using the Lyman lube. I will put my casings in an ice cream pail and spray a shot of lube in. Close the lid ten tumble. I haven't done this with bottlenecked cases yet. The cases that give me the most grief if not lubed properly is 38-55 so I make sure I run lube for that.
 
lanolin+99% isopropanol

Redding dies w/carbide expander button for necks - only need to lube the outside of the case.

I find it makes it *much* easier to pull the expander back thru case necks compared to normal expander w/lube, reduces case stretching.

ht tp://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/reloading-dies/replacement-parts-amp-upgrades/redding-carbide-button-kit-std-type-s-prod33284.aspx?avs|Style_1=Decapping%20Pins|Expander%20Ballszz1zzButtons|Carbide%20Sizing%20Button%20Kits&avs|Manufacturer_1=REDDING

Upgrade your Redding Standard and Type S dies with a carbide sizing button. Makes inside neck sizing smoother and easier without lubrication. Available for bottleneck cartridges in 22 through 30 caliber. The carbide button free floats on the decapping rod allowing it to self-center itself in the case neck. The kit comes complete with a carbide button, retainer, and spare decapping pin. Decap rod not included. Not intended for use on dies other than Redding standard and Type S neck and full length dies.
 
Just about anything slippery will work. I have used Sno seal, mink oil, and my favorite is Bag balm. Get it at any farm supply, or Home hardware.
 
I loose track of where I saw what item , but thought I saw some at Al Flarettys or le barons, but I would call first, as they regularly run out of stuff. However I'm positive I've purchased some from Williams in Port Perry
 
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