Best Combat Revolver- GP100?

sixty9santa

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So I've been looking at revolvers lately and after lots of research, decided upon the Ruger GP100 with a 4.20" barrel as my first wheel gun. Naturally in stainless steel.
Just something about a chrome/stainless revolver that has always fascinated me.
Reason for sticking to a 357 is because my missus is real petite (4'11") and the possibility of shooting 38 special would mean that she would be able to enjoy the gun as well.

I love purely combat style guns in general mainly because they are built to take a beating.
I read a lot of reviews but wanted to get firsthand feedback from the CGN community!

I will be replacing the grips with possibly G10 and sights with tritium.
What are good grips and sights for this gun keeping defensive shooting in mind?
Is the trigger in need of a work?
Other work needed or desirable?

Looking at getting as much feedback as possible before my big purchase!
 
GP100's are good, but my nod would go to the S&W 581 (or 681 if you prefer stainless). Like a 586 except fixed sights so nothing to break/hang up. Unfortunately they were only made with 4" barrels.

Auggie D
 
No complaints with mine. The factory Hogue grip is really comfortable. If you get one with wood, a replacement rubber grip isn't expensive. Trigger isn't bad, especially in single action. It handles heavy 357 loads well and shooting 38's is a breeze.
 
On my GP-100, I changed the springs for Wolff's 10lbs and 8lbs.
I also add a HIVIZ fiber optic front sight and replaced the Hogue stock grip with the original grip with rosewood inserts.
Stay away of LPA sights.
It is a sweet shooting piece.
 
I've got the 4.2" GP100 in stainless and hogue rubber grips which are excellent. I have nice wood grips as well but from a comfort point of view, I love the rubber, your missus will too. I have the original sights and never felt the need to change. Great revolver, nice quality, single action trigger is good.
 
advice

GP-100 with Hogue rubber grips is the way to go. Comfortable with hot loads if that is your thing. (180 gr. hard cast bullet(bullet barn) on top of 12.5 grs. 2400.) Lee factory crimp 1/4 turn(always crimp with slow burn powders)
 
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You might want to also consider the GP100 in MC form; it has some nice upgrades in the form of adjustable sights with F/O front, (very comfortable) Hogue hardwood grips, shimmed trigger/hammer, some minor internal polishing, half lug barrel with target crown, and some other stuff I'm forgetting. Seen them come up on sale for not much more than regurlar GP100 pricing. I did add a set of WC springs to mine as well, nicely lightened DA and SA weight - should mention too that such a swap is a piece of cake on a Ruger, a very easy design to work on yourself.

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GP-100 with Hogue rubber grips is the way to go. Comfortable with hot loads if that is your thing. (180 gr. hard cast bullet(bullet barn) on top of 12.5 grs. 2400.) Lee factory crimp 1/4 turn)
 
I'm very happy with my GP100 with rubber grips. I did lighten the spring which made it even better. You might try shooting Hollow base wad cutters. Not much recoil at all. It also easily shoots 180 grain loads that I use in my Henry carbine.
 
You might want to also consider the GP100 in MC form; it has some nice upgrades in the form of adjustable sights with F/O front, (very comfortable) Hogue hardwood grips, shimmed trigger/hammer, some minor internal polishing, half lug barrel with target crown, and some other stuff I'm forgetting. Seen them come up on sale for not much more than regurlar GP100 pricing. I did add a set of WC springs to mine as well, nicely lightened DA and SA weight - should mention too that such a swap is a piece of cake on a Ruger, a very easy design to work on yourself.

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+1 to the match champion! Just look at my avatar.
 
The best combat revolver would be the Manurhin MR 73 gendarmerie (adj. rear & ramp front sight) with a 2.5, 2.75, 3 or 4 inch tube. In restricted trim I would say the sport version (adjustable rear & patridge front sight) with a 5.25’’ barrel. No other revolver comes close except the mighty Korth.
 
I have a GP100, a few K Frames (weak for 357 loads) and a few L Frame S&W. The S&Ws feel a bit nicer than the Ruger but that is subjective. I have no new S&Ws so they might not be as good. The new 586, 686s look nice. Too bad you can't get 610 or 625s. I would not be afraid of 45 Long Colt 586 called classic. I like the 45 LC round. It isn't hard hitting. Re-loading would be necessary.
 
I have a gp100 4.2 and a sp101 4.2, if I could carry would carry the sp101 I like it more in general, nice and small and packs a punch,
 
I have a gp100 4.2 and a sp101 4.2, if I could carry would carry the sp101 I like it more in general, nice and small and packs a punch,

Exactly, size wise the MR 73 is a tad larger than a K frame S&W but a lot slimmer/lighter than a L frame S&W (581, 586, 681, 686), GP100 or a Colt Python (36oz for a 5.25” Manurhin / 40oz for a 4.2’’ GP 100 and 44oz for a 6” Python).
 
The best combat revolver would be the Manurhin MR 73 gendarmerie (adj. rear & ramp front sight) with a 2.5, 2.75, 3 or 4 inch tube. In restricted trim I would say the sport version (adjustable rear & patridge front sight) with a 5.25’’ barrel. No other revolver comes close except the mighty Korth.

I would agree.....but then again I am a bit biased ;)
 
I like the GP100 a lot—I've got an older one with the wood-rubber grips and they're the most comfortable revolver grips I've ever used, and I've used a ton of different models. I see that similar ones are still for sale online.
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The GP-100 is a great revolver and in many ways is superior to the S&W 686. If you decide to buy when here is what I did to be able to shoot lead 158 gr bullets for IDPA SSR Division. In order to shoot lead bullets they must be .358 in diameter. So the cylinders must be .358 or you are going to either have leading from gas cutting or if the cylinder throats are less than .358 your bullets will enter the barrel resized to whatever the cylinders are. In my gun three were .357 and three were less than .357. I had my gunsmith ream out the cylinders to a consistent .358". The gun will come with a 5 degree forcing cone which is great if all you are going to shoot is plated or FMJ bullets. Lead works well with a 11 degree cut so the 'smith cut the cone to 11 degrees. A lighter mainspring and trigger return spring were installed. To further smooth out the trigger pull I shimmed both the trigger and hammer. With these modification for under $100 I now have a revolver with a smooth DA and crisp SA pull. If all you intend to do is shoot plated or FMJ topped cartridges then you need not do the cylinders or forcing cone. Just check them to ensure they are all .357 in diameter. Rugers are notorious for tight cylinder throats. If buying new do what you have to do with any new gun today. Inspect it closely. Ruger like their main competitor S&W do let out the odd lemon and you should do your best to avoid same if you can.

After going back and forth between a FO and the stock sights I now have settled on the stock sights with a dab of orange fluorescent paint with blacked out rear sights. The FO was ok but I felt the FO was two fragile for my liking and the orange painted stock sight just jumped out at me while shooting. Changing the regular GP-100 front sight is easy peasy and can be done in your home in less than a minute.

I load my 158 gr bullets for competition at 110 PF which is right on factory loadings for that bullet. I also load lead cast bullets from 158 gr to 200 gr round nose for social situations of the 4 legged variety and 180 gr HP cast bulets for angry cardboard targets I might run into at night in my bedroom. The gun is a great revolver. I also have a heavier 686 with a 105.14 MM barrel. It too is excellent. I just prefer the Ruger mostly because it is set up for the type of shooting I do most often.

Good luck the Ruger GP-100 is an excellent pistol with a decent price point. Check the EE there are deals to be had.

Take Care

Bob
ps Read BillD post above he makes a good case for the Match Champion.
 
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