Best finish for bringing out beautiful walnut, while protecting it

Ardent

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I'm making a stock out of a absolutely gorgeous blank, and I'm wondering what finish I should go with to really showcase this strikingly figured piece of timber. I'd really like this one to jump out at you, make the stock the centerpiece of the rifle. Traditionally I use a hand rubbed tung oil finish, worked up to a gloss over a week or two, but I'm thinking of maybe something a little different this time, something that will bring the grain alive a little more. This will also be a field rifle so I'd like a durable/protective finish. So far, I'm considering sprayed poly in gloss, but would love to hear suggestions.
 
Personally I think a thick high gloss finish is a horrible thing to do to a nice piece of wood. Might look ok to start but over the long term it ends up scratched and chipped and discoloured and tacky.

Stick with the traditional finishes. It doesn't sound like you are the sort to shy away from putting in the time to do it right. Truoil (sp?) is about as close to poly as I would ever go and can produce a very nice finish that wears well.
 
Appreciate the thoughts, you know what I will likely heed the advice and stay rather traditional. I can appreciate what you're saying vagrant, some Remingtons came in a candy gloss that looked nice on the shelf but quickly became rather ugly. I'll consider Truoil as a possibility, and may just revert back to what I know, tung oil and elbow grease.
 
I'm a fan of the high gloss urethanes. A really high quality urethane will be durable and it will take a lot to scratch or chip it. Plus, it can be repolished if need be. But they aren't cheap. A really high quality catalyzed urethane can be close to $100/sprayable quart.

With any finish, it will only look as good if the prep is done right and if a lot of time is spent getting it as close to perfect as possible.
 
Truoil is good Chem-pak Pro-custom oil is better ( I think ) it is tung oil based. Use rottenstone to knock back the shine and even out the finish, not steelwool.
 
I'm making a stock out of a absolutely gorgeous blank, and I'm wondering what finish I should go with to really showcase this strikingly figured piece of timber. I'd really like this one to jump out at you, make the stock the centerpiece of the rifle. Traditionally I use a hand rubbed tung oil finish, worked up to a gloss over a week or two, but I'm thinking of maybe something a little different this time, something that will bring the grain alive a little more. This will also be a field rifle so I'd like a durable/protective finish. So far, I'm considering sprayed poly in gloss, but would love to hear suggestions.

My last few stocks were done using the method described below. It is a combination of the 'in-the-wood' and the 'on-the-wood' method and gives a good water-proof finish that looks good and is easily repaired if scratched.

Before a stock is finished, there a few steps that should be done to ensure a proper job. After final sanding to 320, the steps include whiskering(raising the grain), sealing, filling, final finishing and (optional) rubbing out with rottenstone.

Supplies
- at least a liter if good quality marine spar varnish with UV protection. I use Interlux Original.
- a liter of mineral spirits or paint thinner
- 320, 400, 600 grit wet/dry sand paper
- lots of paper towels.
- rottenstone(optional)

Whiskering

This step is necessary because when the wood is sanded, at the microscopic level, the fibers are torn from the surface. A bent fiber that has been pressed into in the grain, or into a pore of the wood, may later rise up. To whisker the surface, gently steam the wood to raise the bent fibers, then sand them off.Once I've got the stock shaped and sanded to 320, I whisker it 3-6 times then sand again to 320.

Sealing.

This is a really important step. Done properly, it can result in a water-impervious layer of wood that can be up tp a 1/16" thick on the side-grain and up to 1/8" thick on end-grain. I have verified this using scrap blocks of wood.

My method is to soak the stock in a 50:50 mix of varnish and thinner. I use a shallow cardboard box lined with plastic. The soak is for 10-12 hours with turning every two hours or so.

After soaking I wipe off excess and let the stock dry for 4-5 days. Pour off the excess mix for use later.

Harper25resize.jpg


Filling the pores

I use the sealing mix to fill the pores in the wood. Dip a piece of 320 wet/dry in the mix and sand the surface with the grain. This process creates a mixture of wood dust and finish. It should look like mud. Be sure to change your paper every so often so you are cutting well. Once the stock has been completely wet sanded take your clean paper towel and very gently wipe the surface cross grain. Wipe as though you were dusting a fine piece of porcelain. This will push the mud you created into the pores. Let dry a couple of days. Repeat this procedure until all the pores have been filled. Different stocks will take require more wet sandings than others. It will depend on how porous the wood is. The stocks I work with usually take 6 wet sandings to fill the pores. The final time you do this wipe off the stock completely with the grain. Leave no mud on the stock. Let dry for at least a week.

If the filling step is skipped, the stock will be covered with tiny dimples after final finishing.

Finishing

Again using the varnish mix,I wet sand the stock with 400 then 600 grit with a day or so of drying between sanding. I then apply 5-6 coats of the mix with my fingers. Pick up a small drop and rub it in throughly on a small area of the stock. Repeat until the stock is done. These coats are very thing and will dry quickly. Let the stock dry overnight and repeat.

Rottenstone.

This finish will give a fairly high shine that can be knocked back by polishing with rottenstone.

This stock was finished as described above but I didn't use the rottenstone.

P9280041.jpg
 
My last few stocks were done using the method described below. It is a combination of the 'in-the-wood' and the 'on-the-wood' method and gives a good water-proof finish that looks good and is easily repaired if scratched.

Before a stock is finished, there a few steps that should be done to ensure a proper job. After final sanding to 320, the steps include whiskering(raising the grain), sealing, filling, final finishing and (optional) rubbing out with rottenstone.

Supplies
- at least a liter if good quality marine spar varnish with UV protection. I use Interlux Original.
- a liter of mineral spirits or paint thinner
- 320, 400, 600 grit wet/dry sand paper
- lots of paper towels.
- rottenstone(optional)

Whiskering

This step is necessary because when the wood is sanded, at the microscopic level, the fibers are torn from the surface. A bent fiber that has been pressed into in the grain, or into a pore of the wood, may later rise up. To whisker the surface, gently steam the wood to raise the bent fibers, then sand them off.Once I've got the stock shaped and sanded to 320, I whisker it 3-6 times then sand again to 320.

Sealing.

This is a really important step. Done properly, it can result in a water-impervious layer of wood that can be up tp a 1/16" thick on the side-grain and up to 1/8" thick on end-grain. I have verified this using scrap blocks of wood.

My method is to soak the stock in a 50:50 mix of varnish and thinner. I use a shallow cardboard box lined with plastic. The soak is for 10-12 hours with turning every two hours or so.

After soaking I wipe off excess and let the stock dry for 4-5 days. Pour off the excess mix for use later.

Harper25resize.jpg


Filling the pores

I use the sealing mix to fill the pores in the wood. Dip a piece of 320 wet/dry in the mix and sand the surface with the grain. This process creates a mixture of wood dust and finish. It should look like mud. Be sure to change your paper every so often so you are cutting well. Once the stock has been completely wet sanded take your clean paper towel and very gently wipe the surface cross grain. Wipe as though you were dusting a fine piece of porcelain. This will push the mud you created into the pores. Let dry a couple of days. Repeat this procedure until all the pores have been filled. Different stocks will take require more wet sandings than others. It will depend on how porous the wood is. The stocks I work with usually take 6 wet sandings to fill the pores. The final time you do this wipe off the stock completely with the grain. Leave no mud on the stock. Let dry for at least a week.

If the filling step is skipped, the stock will be covered with tiny dimples after final finishing.

Finishing

Again using the varnish mix,I wet sand the stock with 400 then 600 grit with a day or so of drying between sanding. I then apply 5-6 coats of the mix with my fingers. Pick up a small drop and rub it in throughly on a small area of the stock. Repeat until the stock is done. These coats are very thing and will dry quickly. Let the stock dry overnight and repeat.

Rottenstone.

This finish will give a fairly high shine that can be knocked back by polishing with rottenstone.

This stock was finished as described above but I didn't use the rottenstone.

P9280041.jpg

Georgeous, you can definitely tell that you poured a lot of time into it. Thanks for sharing.
 
"...gently steam the wood to raise the bent fibers..." Plain water will do that too.
Scratches in polyurethane don't just polish out. It's plastic.
Scratches in an oil finish will disappear by rubbing in a bit more oil.
As you know, tung oil gives a shiney finish. It soaks into the wood about 1/4" and cannot be stained after it is applied. There isn't much that brings out the grain in wood better. Except stain and tung oil on top.
BLO gives a flat finish. It's not as hard a finish as tung oil though.
 
Scratches in polyurethane don't just polish out. It's plastic.

Scratches in urethane certainly do polish out. Very well in fact. Everytime I polish urethane enamel I sand it down first to remove any paint texture. It can be polished back to flawless.

It comes down to what finish you want. Some of the traditional stock finishes can be beautiful. The example posted in this thread is a nice example. Urethane enamels are good if you want maximum gloss and smoothness. The drawback is that they're expensive and require spray equipment for application. And as I said before, no matter which finish you choose, it takes a lot of time to make it flawless.
 
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Flecto Varathane Number 66 Oil finish ....

It applies much like Tung oil, it is designed for exposure to the exterior climate. My stock making instructor used it for many years and highly recommended it to me... and I highly recommend it as well. You can build it up slightly and have a deep looking semi glossy finish... you can leave it looking like the old time oil finish...
 
The sprayed poly finishes are impossible to beat when a thoroughly sealed wood stock is what you are after in my opinion, but they are not my choice in stock finishes when beauty is desired. My preference for stock finishes is Waterlox Tung Oil Finish. It is my prefered Tung Oil finish, I have also tried Tru Oil, Formby's, LinSpeed, Behr, Circa and Pure Tung oil that I mixed with various solvents and dryers, so as you can see it's not the first Tung finish I have used. I have also used various Linseed oil recipies to no avail. The Waterlox is superior to all of them if you can work a proper oil finish. It provides a very neutral finish and does not muddy the woods grain or color. Your proficiency in applying this type of finish is ultimately what will affect the finished product. There are others that will work but from the ones I mentioned above I prefer the Waterlox.
bigbull
 
Halfway through my tung oil job, finished the inletting the day before yesterday, MAN is that a tedious job by hand. This is actually my "practice" stock for a .22 sporter I'm making, and the lesser of my two walnut blanks, it simply is turning out gorgeous though. The next blank is actually much more beautiful, and will likely house a nice custom Mauser of some incarnation yet to be decided.

Mauser 98, I passed on a lot of your steps and went the way I usually do on tung oil jobs (wet sand with 1500 grit and undiluted tung oil periodically for an afternoon, then standard rag and buff application from then on out, still have another few days of it ahead yet), but I did adopt your thinned tung oil soak, I like the result. I think it gave a more even saturation of the finish overall by providing a nice even base. I simply immersed the entire stock in the solution and let it soak overnight. Anyone have an idea for the butt? Was thinking stacked leather. It's smaller than standard/.22 sized, recoil pads are too large.

P1060649.jpg
 
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