PitBull1973
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Right Behind You
Mobil 1 5w30 works great
Best Lube???
- Thread starter NorthernPF
- Start date
The letters CLP stand for Cleaner, Lubricant and Protectant. There is oil in it that provides the lubrication and protection from corrosion and there's an additive that cuts through the powder fouling.
This is the ONE spot here a dedicated CLP oil intended for guns might just be better than good ol' motor oil. The detergents and other additives in motor oils are intended to do stuff our engines need done and to soften and slough away the deposits from burning gasoline. By rights smokeless powder fouling could easily require a different soup of detergent and other additives to cut through the fouling.
But if you clean the guns with something first then good ol' motor oil will very happily give you the "lubricant and protectant" functions in a fine manner. Hell, motor oil for cars can't be used in motorcycles with wet clutches because the engine oils these days are TOO SLIPPERY. We have to use motorcycle oils that are held back to the old SAE "G" rating or whatever it is/was back when any old engine oil was good enough.
So a liter of car engine synthetic oil is going to do a lovely job of lubricating and protecting for many years.
There are three issues where I vary from my "any oil is good oil" feelings. The first is 3in1 which apparently is simply mineral oil like you can get from the drug store. Nothing wrong with that but mineral oil isn't known for having good pressure resistance. So some spots might not work so well if there's higher pressures involved. The next is for my black powder guns where the fouling from proper black powder apparently turns regular oils into a sticky tar. So for those it's Canola cooking oil or Ballistol. And the last is on my .22 semi auto guns.
There are few things in life that are as dirty as a semi auto simple blowback gun. And all the semi auto .22 guns out there are that style. The fouling that puffs back into the action turns to a black goo which quickly gets super messy. So I took the plunge and I'm trying a can of EEZOX dry lube for a couple of my semi auto guns. It's too soon to tell but so far the results look good. My Ruger 10/22 is a dusty black inside but it's not a wet greasy goo like it used to be. Just a dusty black coating that seems to not build up. I'm guessing that the excess is being blown out and away. The action still feels smooth after something like 500 to 600 rounds and the gun is reliable as blazes as long as I keep certain brands of ammo out of it. So for semi auto rimfires I'm starting to come around to the idea that a boutique lube CAN be a good idea for some situations.
The other
Turns out I got some Frog Lube (spray liquid) in the firing pin/striker channel. Once it set up it was enough to slow down the striker causing light strikes. To complicate my confusion, at the exact same time I used up all my blazer bulk 9mm and bought 750 rounds of eastern European 9mm to try it...I thought it was the ammo at first (hard primers), it wasn't. It was the gawd damn Frog Lube. Tore the gun down, cleaned it up and it hasn't skipped a beat since.
- Location
- West Quebec
That's what happens when you drink the lemonade.. Froglube is so last year lol
G96 regular is good, smells good. I use Amsoil food grade grease in small amounts.
Synthetic clp g96 smells like feet, but it is fantastic in the padlocks here in the winter months, if I shot in the cold much I would have to have stinky feet smelling guns lol
Where to find Ballistol?
Synthetic clp g96 smells like feet, but it is fantastic in the padlocks here in the winter months, if I shot in the cold much I would have to have stinky feet smelling guns lol
Where to find Ballistol?
- Location
- West Quebec
well according to numerous industry insiders, from guys who've worked for HK, Beretta, SIG, Remington and Glock, there are no "gun lubricants" that have spent any significant money on research and development. Whereas motor oil manufactures have spent billions of dollars on R&D. A car engine is subjected to much more pressure and wear and tear on sliding and pivoting parts than any gun (and no the pressure of firing a round as measured in a barrel is not what I'm talking about), the crap produced is very similar to what guns produce. As such, gun oils are simply rebranded oils from other uses. And we are seeing that more and more with people doing actual studies on today's miracle lubes, from vegetable oils to motor oils. Why anyone would waste money on branded gun oils or grease is beyond me.
Gear oil works well if you need something a little heavier, it has a high shear strength to it and lubricates very well. It comes in a few varying grades. I use a synthetic blend on a couple of my rifles and its stays slippery on the surfaces for quite a while.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
God... your hands will smell bad for months after..
- Location
- Richmond, BC
Mobil 1 synthetic 10-W-30 and regular Canadian Tire Lithium grease on the 2011 sears and on the CZ disco.
Tried just about every premium "gun" oil on the market and nothing works better than this. Motor oil is specifically designed to float carbon away from friction bearing parts. If I need a little more viscosity in the hottest season, a little STP oil treatment in the mix does the job. A 1 liter bottle of motor oil will last for years.
For cleaning, brake cleaner.
For protecting, my guns get handled a lot so I don't need anything special. If we are competing on a rainy day and I'm worried about rust I'll just hit it with a quick shot of silicon spray to displace any moisture.
Tried just about every premium "gun" oil on the market and nothing works better than this. Motor oil is specifically designed to float carbon away from friction bearing parts. If I need a little more viscosity in the hottest season, a little STP oil treatment in the mix does the job. A 1 liter bottle of motor oil will last for years.
For cleaning, brake cleaner.
For protecting, my guns get handled a lot so I don't need anything special. If we are competing on a rainy day and I'm worried about rust I'll just hit it with a quick shot of silicon spray to displace any moisture.
- Location
- West Quebec
Asking on here about which lube to use, you will get as many answers as you have CGN members. I went through the same thing for two years, tried more things than I can recall, spent HUNDREDS OR MORE trying different lubes and cleaners. I have some guns I shoot several times a month and others several times a year. If youre asking..... Froglube and the other veggie based lubes work, gun cleans up easy, and smells nice, but only if the gun is cleaned after each use and re lubed. If it sits for weeks it gets thick and gummy and smells nasty, it rots... literally
I settled on Ballistol for EVERYTHING, it cleans and lubes. Doesn't smell nice but stays useable on the firearm for many many months. It's actually pretty cheap also. I am also of the belief that pretty much anything works, I did however find that synthetic motor oil really creeps all over the gun, annoyingly so. I reduced the amount I used but still it ends up all over the place after a couple hundred round match. The vegetable based oils thicken and rot. I use the ballistol on every gun for cleaning and lube....... never a problem. I apply sparingly with a tiny paint brush. Love it
I'm done experimenting
I settled on Ballistol for EVERYTHING, it cleans and lubes. Doesn't smell nice but stays useable on the firearm for many many months. It's actually pretty cheap also. I am also of the belief that pretty much anything works, I did however find that synthetic motor oil really creeps all over the gun, annoyingly so. I reduced the amount I used but still it ends up all over the place after a couple hundred round match. The vegetable based oils thicken and rot. I use the ballistol on every gun for cleaning and lube....... never a problem. I apply sparingly with a tiny paint brush. Love it
I'm done experimenting
