Best paint for aluminium.

Not strictly paint but consider anodising it or getting it coated with one of the popular bake coating.

Thank you for writing "aluminium" instead of 'aluminum' :)
 
Not strictly paint but consider anodising it or getting it coated with one of the popular bake coating.

Thank you for writing "aluminium" instead of 'aluminum' :)


Aluminium is underlined by the CGN spell checker and suggests aluminum instead :)
 
Clean, prime with zinc chromate, paint whatever colour you want.

When it gets dinged or scratched, you will have enough left over in the two cans to do it again about fifty times.

Just plain works, and anyone can do it!
Ted
 
Why not cut that left over floppy to size and glew it on the floor plate.
Protect it and be a styl'in match for the floppy butt pad?

I mean, is it not a reasonable thing to consider?
 
OK this is what I do. First After removing all the old finish, I clean the aluminum part in a bath of household vinegar. I use fine steel wool and the vinegar to remove the oxide film that prevents paint bonding with the metal. After cleaning, the part should be rinsed with water and quickly dried with paper towel. Once dry the part should be given a coat of self-etching paint primer ASAP. Spray can stuff is great and gives a good finish. Leave to dry a couple of day and then finish with any spray cans tough wear topcoat.
I have had good results with camouflaged finishes and they stand up well to hunting in salt marshes etc. The key to success is the removal of the aluminum oxide film and the use of an etching primer. I would also avoid zinc chromate primer, as it is very toxic, even to the touch until dry.
 
Use BBQ paint. It's flat black, is made for Al and it's cheap. No hot baths, chemicals or anything else is required for a trigger guard.
Spell checkers are usually set up for American. not the Queen's English. Aluminium is The Queen's English.
 
I have painted a lot of aluminium parts and pieces over the years in business, I glass bead the parts to remove all finish and crap, zinc chromate prime, dry for at least 24 hrs and then either a gloss or flat black enamel paint and bake in the oven for 2 hrs at 250 deg. This gives a relatively tough finish but nothing like the cerakote......That is the best way for sure if its not too much money, powder coating is another really tough option if you have a shop close that does it.
 
O.K. Guys I will bite at aluminium vs. aluminum. Both the ium and the um endings have been in use for a very long time. Sir Humphy Davy who first named the element used the um ending first and then the ium ending later. The International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry have standardized the ium ending spelling as the correct one, however many people in the U.S. still use the um ending. I use both endings, as both are equally correct in my view.
 
Correct me if I am wrong, Aludyne is the prep for Aluminum and most of its alloys. There is indeed a Zinc Chromate primer for aluminum but Aludyne is integral like anodizing. Zinc Chromate priming might be a cheaper option as a base coat.


Clean, prime with zinc chromate, paint whatever colour you want.

When it gets dinged or scratched, you will have enough left over in the two cans to do it again about fifty times.

Just plain works, and anyone can do it!
Ted
 
I have painted a lot of aluminium parts and pieces over the years in business, I glass bead the parts to remove all finish and crap, zinc chromate prime, dry for at least 24 hrs and then either a gloss or flat black enamel paint and bake in the oven for 2 hrs at 250 deg. This gives a relatively tough finish but nothing like the cerakote......That is the best way for sure if its not too much money, powder coating is another really tough option if you have a shop close that does it.

What grit(?) Of bead and psi works best to provide a nice, paintable surface?

+1 for zinc chromate, a must for aluminum. Er.. aluminium
 
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