Best person to work on USP in Lowermainland?

ghostie

ghostie

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Who would you guys say is the best person to work on an HK USP 9mm in the Lowermainland of B.C.?

I had a gunsmith install a match trigger kit but it isn't 100%. I don't really want to debate the symptomns on here, I just want the gun to be at 100%. I would rather not mail it off to someone outside the Lowermainland.

Recommendations? Experience with various gunsmiths and USPs?
 
O.k., I feel like venting. I will discuss the details.

This is the match trigger kit I bought from a fellow CGN'er:
USP-newparts.jpg


These are the parts that are now out of the gun. All of the parts in the first kit are now in the gun, with the exception of the little round spring. The round spring is the same in both pictures. Apparantly the trigger wouldn't reset with the other one in it. You can see that the "sear"-type part is quite a bit different from one pic to the other.
USP-oldparts.jpg


The kit seems to be installed properly, and everything seems to be working just fine... except, I take it to the range today, and about three times in the first 250 rounds, it does this thing where pulling the trigger - either in DA or SA - drops the trigger to the half-#### position (the place where the hammer goes when you decock... normally when you pull the trigger the hammer should go all the way forward and hit)). Then you mess around with it a bit, keep pulling the trigger, and it comes to its senses and goes back to working normally.

So what is your diagnosis based on this? Is the kit installed improperly, or is the kit just need to be "broken in", or is there one or more parts in these pictures that should not have been installed/removed? I'm pretty sure it has to be one these three options.

Damn. This is really making me rank SIG even higher than I already do.
 
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that could be the problem. From the top pic, I can not tell which hammer it is, but I am assuming it is the hammer with the U shaped notch in it. The "little" spring is the trigger return spring. It is softer/ lighter than the regular spring. IF it would not reset with that installed, there may be material around the trigger that could be causing it to not reset (ie: plastic shavings, dirt , etc..) Match triggers are recommended to be installed by certified armorers. They don't come out of the factory not working(!)

Make sure the overtravel screw is not out too far, although that is a seperate matter, which should not cause the symptons you are describing.

Lets hope the sear spring (the stainless part that the hammer rides against) is installed properly. If it is broken or bent, it could cause the problems you are experiencing. ALso, if the detent plate, or anything is installed out of order, it may cause the problems you have described.
 
Thanks for the info. The discussion on the HK board is bang-on. The kit had the "S" hammer with the longer catch. Now I just need someone that is HK certified or at least really knows their HKs. I'm just waiting for some responses right now. Not much seems to happen on Monday in the Vancouver firearms business. An "HK certified armorer" seems to be an extremely rare animal in this part of the world - probably non-existent - but I think there are at least a couple of people who can sort this out for me.

The weird thing about all this... the trigger is actually a lot better since the kit was installed. Vast improvement. The trigger is lighter, smoother, and it eliminates that last little bit of creep in the trigger that I was complaining about in another thread. I only took it out once (yesterday), and I quit early (with that gun) until I can get someone to figure things out, but in the shooting I did do, the trigger was excellent.
 
ghostie said:
Thanks for the info. The discussion on the HK board is bang-on. The kit had the "S" hammer with the longer catch. Now I just need someone that is HK certified or at least really knows their HKs. I'm just waiting for some responses right now. Not much seems to happen on Monday in the Vancouver firearms business. An "HK certified armorer" seems to be an extremely rare animal in this part of the world - probably non-existent - but I think there are at least a couple of people who can sort this out for me.

The weird thing about all this... the trigger is actually a lot better since the kit was installed. Vast improvement. The trigger is lighter, smoother, and it eliminates that last little bit of creep in the trigger that I was complaining about in another thread. I only took it out once (yesterday), and I quit early (with that gun) until I can get someone to figure things out, but in the shooting I did do, the trigger was excellent.
Click to expand...

Bet you went to POCO and took advantage of being under cover.
Mike
 
BC Mike said:
Bet you went to POCO and took advantage of being under cover.
Mike
Click to expand...

Indeed. This is a video of the gun being used yesterday (if this is up on Youtube already). The gun was actually working pretty well. I need someone who really knows HK to get it to 100% though. Just a regular old gunsmith is not going to work for something this tricky.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0LYkPJA8gc
 
Here are some pictures of the culprit. I spoke to one gunsmith today who said "Sear spring engagement is the issue", and that he has dealt with this issue before. "Sometimes they fit a little too tight inside the frame and hang up alowing it to drop to half ####, but like you said, inconsistently."

Unfortunately he can't do it in the next couple of weeks, but I have one more name to try - or I will wait until this gunsmith is available.

This is how the gun is set up right now. This shows the longer hammer catch going into the gap in the "S"-marked hammer.
USPjob1.jpg


This shows the hammer in the de-####/half-#### position - with the hammer resting on the catch.
USPjob2.jpg


Something may be wrong in this photos. I really don't know. The issue is incredibly tricky. I'm not going to touch it myself. I had a gunsmith do it the first time, and even that wasn't enough to ensure it was in properly.
 
Umm.....do you ride the safety when you shoot this V1 USP?, you may be pressing down a little causing it to decock at the moment you press the trigger. A variant 3 plate for $12 can fix that.

Does the detent plate spring up and down (ie: can you press it down and it comes back up?)
 
Well... as a follow-up, I took my USP to Joe Dlask at Dlask Arms in Delta, BC. His turn-around time was about 10 days. Very refreshing compared to every other gunsmith I've dealt with. As it turns out, the match-trigger kit was not installed properly the first time (duh!). The hammer catch with the longer "arm" sticking out toward the back of the gun was in too tight and was not tilting down properly as the trigger was pulled.

Anyway, I've had the USP back for a couple of weeks now and it has made two range trips now without a single problem. I even had two new guys up at the range on the holiday Monday and they were shooting it no problem as well. The trigger is so much better now than it was stock. It's lighter, smoother, and the creep problem has vanished. Now I actually know precisely when the hammer will drop. Finally my USP is rivalling my SIG on accuracy. I had the two new guys shooting the USP and the SIG229, and one of the guys actually preferred the USP on accuracy.

So, if you are needing someone to work on a USP, go to Joe Dlask. He really knows his pistols. The fact that gunsmithing is their primary business is also a good thing in terms of getting your gun back in a reasonable time.
 
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