Best reloading manual ?

The best reloading book is the one from the manufacturer of the components you are using.
If I had to propose one only, I would say the one from the manufacturer / distributor of the powder you are using.
I own most of the reloading publications and I simply can't say one is always better than another.
 
I have been loading for 5 years now and have yet to buy a manual. There is enough info on the net now days. Just go to the website for the bullet or powder that you chose to use and you can find plenty of info there.
 
Off the top of my head, while at work, I have, home sitting on the shelf, 2 different editions of both Sierra and Lee, Barnes, Nosler, Hornady, Lyman, Hodgdon, 3 different editions of "the ABCs", "Metallic Reloading", Ken Waters' Pet Loads, Dupont, several pamphlets from Hodgdon and Speer, a couple of George Nonte's books, Jack O'Connor's "the Hunting Rifle"...
There are a few more, but they escape me right now.
Not being an internet trusting person and less than tech-savvy, I would rather use a book. My favourite book is Modern Reloading.
 
I'll give another vote for the Speer and Hornady manuals - both are full of great information. I liked the format of the older Speer manuals a bit better than the newer ones, but that's just my personal preference. I have an older Sierra manual as well and depending on the calibre I will sometimes cross-reference all 3.

Like others have said, I would suggest getting a manual for the brand of bullets you're using. Especially in more recent times, it seems that there have been great developments and advancements in propellant and cartridge technologies coming to market. I like to stay on top of things, not only for the cartridges I use, but knowing what else is out there as well.
 
I don't think there's a best manual. I try to keep my library current, though this can be costly. IMHO, you should have as many sources of information as you can afford, and I think 3 is a prudent minimum. If you have a Nosler, Lyman, and the Sierra book, you will have 3 reliable sources of information, which each approach their data from a slightly different directions. Nosler provides the minimum-maximum load data with the corresponding velocity, along with the load density. Lyman provides the minimum-maximum load data with the corresponding velocity and the corresponding pressure (which should only be used as a point of comparison, not as a suggestion that more is better) and provides some load data for cast bullets. Sierra by contrast lists velocities with the corresponding load load data, an interesting departure from the others, which is why I put it ahead of say the Speer manual. I've found so many mistakes in the Hornady manual that I always weigh its data against other sources. I liked the older #3 Barnes manual, but #4 contains much less data per cartridge than most other manuals. Still, if you intend to use lots of their bullets, it doesn't hurt to have their manual, ditto Berger, Swift, and Lapua/VV. I like the A-Square manual for the information related to terminal ballistics, and for the data pertinent to "African cartridges". Ken Waters Pet Loads though dated, is a good choice for your 4th manual. The Lee manual is another departure, which list loads both by weight and volume.
 
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I use current Sierra, Nosler, Speer & Barnes and supplement with Hodgdon's magazine format "Annual" manual & their website.
My favourite is an old Speer manual with some loads (and obsolete powders) that would make you think twice today !

For a "first" manual, I would start with Sierra ... but whatever floats your boat.
 
I have Nosler, Sierra, Barnes, Hornady and Speer. About 99% of the time I use Nosler and Sierra. On line, you can find Accurate Shooter and Reloaders Nest. Both are great sites.
 
The one thing to remember about ANY printed reloading material is that the information is NOT written in stone.

In the Lyman manual you will see them using pressure test barrels with minimum bore and chamber dimensions and using the copper crusher or transducer method, and these test barrels will generate the highest possible chamber pressures. In another manual you will see a specific firearm used and on these firearms a strain gauge must be glued to the barrel and calibrated. The copper crusher and transducer method are direct pressure measurements and a strain gauge should be calibrated with a cartridge with a known pressure. Meaning they are calibrating the strain gauge to give the same pressure reading as the tight chamber, tight bore pressure test barrel. (and it might be a fat chamber and bore)

Bottom line, we live in a plus and minus manufacturing world and firearms will have different chamber and bore dimensions that will effect your chamber pressure in your firearm. Meaning ALL reloading manuals are "ball park" figures and they DO NOT 100% represent your firearms. As an example my stock factory made Savage .223 bolt action rifle has a longer throat than either of my AR15 rifles do and can be loaded hotter. And this makes the reloading manuals even more "ball park" for my .223 rifle.

"BUT" you might have a older .223 rifle with a shorter SAAMI throat and not be able to load as warm as I do.

"Ball park" covers a lot of ground, below are two Quickload charts showing how much internal case volume can effect chamber pressure using the same charge of 25 grains of H335.

Below is a American military Lake City 5.56 cartridge case with the "MOST" internal volume with 30.6 grains of H2O capacity.

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Below is a Israeli IMI 5.56 cartridge case with 28.8 grains of case capacity in grains of H2O.

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A change in cartridge cases can raise your chamber pressure 6,000 psi and is why reloading manuals are "ball park" figures. And also why a load posted in a forum in someones elses rifle can come unglued in "YOUR" rifle.
 
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The best reloading book is the one from the manufacturer of the components you are using.
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I agree wit this. I have Sierra, Speer and Nosler and use the Nosler quite a bit as I shoot their bullets. However Ken Water's "Pet Loads" is by far the best reloading books I have seen. They were recommended to me by someone off this site years ago when I was just starting out and I still use them more than all the rest.
 
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