Best reticle leveler ?
- Thread starter ben777lemay
- Start date
Yes. Saw them in the store 2 days ago here.
Here is the answer I got from them:
Unfortunately, this item is discontinued and sold out within our system.
If there is anything else we can do for you, please feel free to contact us at any time.
Specifically to the guys trying for perfection on leveling the scope with the action.......
You guys do know it is more important to simply have your scope level when firing right?
You can have a scope off of the vertical axis and it will still shoot true as long as the scope is level when firing. IE using an ACD
You guys do know it is more important to simply have your scope level when firing right?
You can have a scope off of the vertical axis and it will still shoot true as long as the scope is level when firing. IE using an ACD
Yes, that's why most serious long range shooters have a bubble level mounted on their scope or base.
For one of my rifle I will install one on the scope tube and the other I will use Spuhr rings with integrated bubble level.
Thats right. ACD = Anti Cant Device.
I just wanted to point that out cause some people seem to think that having the scope level to the rifle is the most important thing.
So i spend most of my attention making sure that ACD is level with my crosshairs.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Not being a ####, but don't you have to have the reticle level to the rifle, and then have the ACD level to your reticle?? If your ACD is level to your reticle, but your reticle is not level to your rifle, when you dial up you'll still be dialing slightly left or right......yes/no??
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Isn't it about 600yds where it becomes an issue???
Everything must be perfect !
Like I said in one of my previous post, its for my rifles that I will shot at long range.
I know its not needed if you just shoot at 100-200y, etc...
I plan to stretch my .308 to 800y.
BUT I'm a perfectionist and I like when everything is perfect so why not ?
The goal of this thread is to share ideas between us of what kind of *tools* we like to use for a perfect reticle/scope leveling.
Its not really about debating if its a must to do it.
Why didn't we pay more attention in Trigonometry class...
Point of the level level level is to make sure the scope, rail/barrel is level. Then when you shoot with the ACD level there is no "windage" introduced that has to be calculated outside of the scope zeroed distance (scope and barrel converges). Any trig experts please correct if my assumptions are incorrect.
Just having ACD level with the crosshair is NOT good enough outside of zeroed distance unless you want to do a lot of math as there is windage adj in addition to elevation.
Point of the level level level is to make sure the scope, rail/barrel is level. Then when you shoot with the ACD level there is no "windage" introduced that has to be calculated outside of the scope zeroed distance (scope and barrel converges). Any trig experts please correct if my assumptions are incorrect.
Just having ACD level with the crosshair is NOT good enough outside of zeroed distance unless you want to do a lot of math as there is windage adj in addition to elevation.
Nope the only thing that will cause it to fly left or right when you dial up is the can't on the scope. (As long as the scope is parallel. If it is parallel then you impact will be off equal to the offset from center bore.)
I will clarify. I am saying parallel with the bore. If your rail is set up with some moa built into it then it won't work cause it's not parallel.... I hate autocorrect
There are lots of weapon systems out there that used sighing systems that are not at the 12 o'clock position. Some are 45 degrees off.
Sniper rifles alone... the garand did it and the special k31 with integrated optics did it. The big reason for truING it up with the action is ergonomics and the shear design of the rifles.
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What this have to do with reticle leveling ?
I know where you go with this but please don't forget what this thread is all bout.
Having a 20MOA rail means it is more important that your scope is level to your action. (And to some more important to use a specialized leveling device.)
My whole point from my first post was that having the scope level with the ACD is more important than having it level with the action. (On a flat rail)
Thats my last post on it. If anyone wants to play around with this idea. Like I said. PM me and we can meet up at Milo and test it out.
(If your in MTL i will be out there next week )
Cheers
My whole point from my first post was that having the scope level with the ACD is more important than having it level with the action. (On a flat rail)
Thats my last post on it. If anyone wants to play around with this idea. Like I said. PM me and we can meet up at Milo and test it out.
(If your in MTL i will be out there next week
)Cheers
Having a 20MOA rail means it is more important that your scope is level to your action. (And to some more important to use a specialized leveling device.)
My whole point from my first post was that having the scope level with the ACD is more important than having it level with the action. (On a flat rail)
Thats my last post on it. If anyone wants to play around with this idea. Like I said. PM me and we can meet up at Milo and test it out.
(If your in MTL i will be out there next week
Cheers
Yeah but the ideal setup is to be sure that the rail, the scope/reticle and the ACD is all on the same level.
I don't hear anyone saying you're wrong
Even with all those posts, you still haven't told us what you use for your reticle leveling...
If you are using a rail (a really good idea at 800y) I'd suggest an adjustable parallel. I believe they go down to .375", so before you buy one, make sure you have at least 3/8 clearance. And a flat spot on the bottom of your scope. This is seriously the closest thing to dialing in the reticle like I showed pictures of
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Anyone ever consider this:
Mount a pic rail on something that's big and heavy, that can levelled with a proper 2' or 3' level (versus balancing a torpedo level or 1" bubble on your rail). Level it. Mount your rings and scope to that pic rail (and your ACD, if you're so inclined). Use a laser level or plumb bob to square up the reticle. Lock your scope into the rings, and then take it off and put it on your rifle.
Then you should have a scope that is trued to your rings, and one should assume you're rail is trued to your rifle. It should all be good now.
I find the weakest link in this whole process to be levelling the rifle with a rink-ee-dink level on a very small surface to allow the scope to be levelled in the rings.
Mount a pic rail on something that's big and heavy, that can levelled with a proper 2' or 3' level (versus balancing a torpedo level or 1" bubble on your rail). Level it. Mount your rings and scope to that pic rail (and your ACD, if you're so inclined). Use a laser level or plumb bob to square up the reticle. Lock your scope into the rings, and then take it off and put it on your rifle.
Then you should have a scope that is trued to your rings, and one should assume you're rail is trued to your rifle. It should all be good now.
I find the weakest link in this whole process to be levelling the rifle with a rink-ee-dink level on a very small surface to allow the scope to be levelled in the rings.
