Best Semi competition setup money-no-object?

I don't compete at any level, just love the shooting sports, and have more time then money for playing. I enjoy building, using and selling rifles.

I have tried many a combo in the last few years, and from what I recall the best was the dlask tuff receiver, volquartsen competition bolt, kidd single stage triger, the dlask carbon barrels, (I think they are green mountain blanks), and depending on what I was setting up for a compatible stock. I went full out and used the bolt on trigger pins, whole way.

Yea, I tried the grey birch stuff. I had one of the first stocks they made. It was okay. The barrels, receivers, and even their newer screwed together models just never worked for me with multiple different ammo, and yes even the expensive stuff. Nothing came close to the dlask combo.

I have had several magnum research models, and they were decent. Built stuff with the last hold open feature, and that was an awesome feature to have. To put it in perspective I probably did 15 different barrel receiver combos in 5 years.

For run and gun type shooting, I tried many combos of stocks, SBI, GB and others and ultimately settled on the ULW stocks out of the US. Can no longer get them across though with the recent bs gov stuff going on on both sides. They were by far the lightest and still rigid stocks around.
I have a built up takedown 10/22 version on the tactical solutions receiver, so I'm all set for what that does, and have moved on from 10/22's. Tried the RimX, and have now settled on an Annie 1727 straight pull, that I just love. If I ever felt the need to get another 10/22 I would not hesitate to put together the dlask tuff, carbon barrel combo again, it was just that good.

One of the biggest things I used to do to tune things is work on the recievers. Get in there with some 600 and 1000 grit paper and smooth things out. Polish up the bolts on the running surfaces, change up the charge springs, and things would run WAY smoother. I used to even pull apart the triggers and polish the surfaces and found they were working smoother as well.

You can get decently accurate, under one inch groups with a 10/22 at 100m, if you do some work on them. 1/2"- 5/8" groups were normal at 50m with less attainable if you worked at it. Bigger thing is have fun!!
 
Howz about the Bergara BXR? not the after market support but then if it is super good as-is, why change parts

Rugers Competition models 10/22 have the BX trigger and a chamber 'optimized' 4a target semi, and a 30 moa rail. whats to change on one of these
 
I've been digging into this some more. I can't find any numbers comparing the volquartzen trigger pack to the BX, but I'd have to assume it's pretty good. The break is crispy and 1 3/4 pounds, not sure how much lighter that can go and still be safe but 1lb would be ideal.

I put a call in to my optometrist, chatted a bit about a shooting specific lens. Eyes have started to go at 1-10 feet, age sucks, but I have to know what glass I'm going to use first, and if I put the $ into something nice, a lot of them can dial in something resembling a prescription. If I go FFP I'll need to be able to see that reticle. Parallax is paramount, I don't have it on any of my rimfire scopes, but I think they all assume a 50y target(?).

I "think" the volq can do the job, but not married to it. Oh and these competitions, are they generally bench, offhand or prone? That's another variable I have to factor in to the practice range. I actually find prone really uncomfortable so I'd have to work on that a whole lot too, but I've never been to a "real" rimfire competition, they've always been smaller matches in SW ontario prior to this. I mean, I'll know pretty quick if I can 'chase that podium' or not, but I'm going to give it a shot lol.
 
wallz said:
I don't compete at any level, just love the shooting sports, and have more time then money for playing. I enjoy building, using and selling rifles.

I have tried many a combo in the last few years, and from what I recall the best was the dlask tuff receiver, volquartsen competition bolt, kidd single stage triger, the dlask carbon barrels, (I think they are green mountain blanks), and depending on what I was setting up for a compatible stock. I went full out and used the bolt on trigger pins, whole way.

Yea, I tried the grey birch stuff. I had one of the first stocks they made. It was okay. The barrels, receivers, and even their newer screwed together models just never worked for me with multiple different ammo, and yes even the expensive stuff. Nothing came close to the dlask combo.

I have had several magnum research models, and they were decent. Built stuff with the last hold open feature, and that was an awesome feature to have. To put it in perspective I probably did 15 different barrel receiver combos in 5 years.

For run and gun type shooting, I tried many combos of stocks, SBI, GB and others and ultimately settled on the ULW stocks out of the US. Can no longer get them across though with the recent bs gov stuff going on on both sides. They were by far the lightest and still rigid stocks around.
I have a built up takedown 10/22 version on the tactical solutions receiver, so I'm all set for what that does, and have moved on from 10/22's. Tried the RimX, and have now settled on an Annie 1727 straight pull, that I just love. If I ever felt the need to get another 10/22 I would not hesitate to put together the dlask tuff, carbon barrel combo again, it was just that good.

One of the biggest things I used to do to tune things is work on the recievers. Get in there with some 600 and 1000 grit paper and smooth things out. Polish up the bolts on the running surfaces, change up the charge springs, and things would run WAY smoother. I used to even pull apart the triggers and polish the surfaces and found they were working smoother as well.

You can get decently accurate, under one inch groups with a 10/22 at 100m, if you do some work on them. 1/2"- 5/8" groups were normal at 50m with less attainable if you worked at it. Bigger thing is have fun!!
Click to expand...

I'd sure love to do sub moa at 100 though with a 22 that would be something if I could do it consistently. I will maybe watch some videos, I've never even seen a real .22 shoot.
 
boxhitch said:
Howz about the Bergara BXR? not the after market support but then if it is super good as-is, why change parts

Rugers Competition models 10/22 have the BX trigger and a chamber 'optimized' 4a target semi, and a 30 moa rail. whats to change on one of these
Click to expand...
I put a Kidd 2 stage in my Ruger Competition. It’s in an SBI chassis now. It shoots very well, but I think an IBI barrel would help. It sure helped my T1X.
 
Somerset Bar said:
I put a call in to my optometrist, chatted a bit about a shooting specific lens. Eyes have started to go at 1-10 feet, age sucks, but I have to know what glass I'm going to use first, and if I put the $ into something nice, a lot of them can dial in something resembling a prescription. If I go FFP I'll need to be able to see that reticle. Parallax is paramount, I don't have it on any of my rimfire scopes, but I think they all assume a 50y target(?).
Click to expand...

I started to wear progressive lenses this year, as I age, the eyes are not what they used to be.

For all my shooting/hunting I decided to go contacts. No 1 reason for this is fogging glasses REALLY SUCK when out hunting, so I wear these contacts for all my shooting, so I can leave the scopes all the same and no adjusting the focus on them. I did try several different contacts and settled on a standard prescription with no progressives in them, so they don't interfere with my shooting. Worst case is things are a bit blurry if I try to read something while out hunting, or at the range. The garmin X chrony is no problem. His solution was to use cheap reading glasses for when I really need to see close. Go figure, contact lenses and reading glasses on top.


Yea that is with 10/22. If you go a bolt action of some sort you can usually get better results. Main reason I ended up going this route, but there were just some actions I needed to try out as well. The 1727 is just hands down more fun to run then any bolt.
 
wallz said:
I started to wear progressive lenses this year, as I age, the eyes are not what they used to be.

For all my shooting/hunting I decided to go contacts. No 1 reason for this is fogging glasses REALLY SUCK when out hunting, so I wear these contacts for all my shooting, so I can leave the scopes all the same and no adjusting the focus on them. I did try several different contacts and settled on a standard prescription with no progressives in them, so they don't interfere with my shooting. Worst case is things are a bit blurry if I try to read something while out hunting, or at the range. The garmin X chrony is no problem. His solution was to use cheap reading glasses for when I really need to see close. Go figure, contact lenses and reading glasses on top.


Yea that is with 10/22. If you go a bolt action of some sort you can usually get better results. Main reason I ended up going this route, but there were just some actions I needed to try out as well. The 1727 is just hands down more fun to run then any bolt.
Click to expand...

A friend of mine has a reader lens in one eye, and a long range in the other. I unfortunately only have one eye that has anything close to 20/20, the other one took a BB to it years ago and runs about a 20/200 now with a crazy prescription even to make out shapes (meh, who needs depth perception!), so ideally, if I can get the scope to do the work, it eliminates the fogging (hopefully). Readers or safety squints for anything up close... Old age sucks donkey balls, there's no other way to put it.
 
Somerset, Would a Cataract repl help ? Did wonders for me, from Tri-focals' to Costco readers = 3 for $20ish.
 
Buck1950 said:
Somerset, Would a Cataract repl help ? Did wonders for me, from Tri-focals' to Costco readers = 3 for $20ish.
Click to expand...

I don't know, the trouble with things close up is still pretty new to me, started maybe around 52ish, so I'm at the pile-o-readers stage, and the big worry is screwing up the only eye I have that still works. The other one can't be worked on because the cornea was damaged, it's not just a lens issue. BB in the eye hurts like a bugger, let me tell you I still remember them digging it out of there...wear those shooter glasses at all times! lol. So if I have a bad reaction I'm essentially blind. Did you have it done?? Any concerns??? I think my eye just doesn't focus well anymore, vision is still clear as a bell far out...
 
dsmitherin said:
Grey birch is run by ex employees of NEA. Also bought something from them and they still owe me a thread protector and ignored multiple emails.
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x2, can't say I was impressed with a barrel I ordered, or their after-sales service. Now that they're not even in the country I don't think I'd chance it
 
I have built quite a few now and my experience points me to Kidd match barrels! Haven’t had one that isn’t extremely accurate! I have tried almost every trigger and the Kidd two stage is hands down the winner. It’s able to be adjusted very light and still remain safe. I pound my buttstock on the ground cocked (obviously unloaded) hard enough to break my toes and it never fails. My opinion on bolts is the Volquartsen DLC competition. I run the white Kidd spring because I’m only running subsonic target ammo. I use the tapped trigger pins. Mostly I’ve used some form of Dlask receiver. My favourite is the flattop with an moa rail for shooting out there. If you’re only going 0-200yds the integrated rail receivers are fine. My last receiver was a Volquartsen SS which is incredibly well machined but quite hard on the wallet. The BX trigger is far better than the standard unit but not worth it for me trying to squeeze out everything. As always the ammo lot number will be the maker or breaker of any rimfire gun.
 
Cataract Repl Surgery

Somerset, Up until 2017 I had progressives for work (on computer 6+ hrs/day), bifocal with a large 'reading' bottom for at home, and Tri-focal for 'outdoors' like range when I needed close/mid, and long distance. I had glaucoma (both eyes) and went thru 4-5 years of laser-perforation of the corneal 'rim' (iridotomy) and finally he determined I was developing cataracts in both eyes and best course was implants for both eyes. There are implants that have 'variable focus' to avoid needing 'readers' somehow, but they're $2-3K 'extra', the basic is covered under MSI so I went with that. In the USA it's several $K per eye, I understand. They did them 3-4 days apart, wearing a patch for the eye 'done' for the interim. I was advised to Not shoot at all for a month or so to allow healing, then not shoot 'hi-cal' for another month or so. Now I just wear 'readers' when shooting so I can see 'a tiny bit better'? May just be 'in my head'? Sometimes I forget to put them on and don't notice a diff for a few shots, my vision is so much better - I have to take glasses off to use the spotting scope. The Big diff overall is I see White paper 'really white - not beige', colours are More Distinct and I choose to wear sunglasses outdoors. You're advised to wear them the first month or so anyway, but I prefer always outdoors tho I'm 6+ years down the road.
When I wore Tri's I had to hold my head tilted back to get the proper 'area' of the lens for the reticle clarity. Really uncomfortable after a couple hours of bench shooting. Now my 'other end' is where the discomfort resides. :rolleyes:
I'd suggest you at least discuss this with your optometrist as a possibility to improve your remaining vision.
And anyone else reading this post, too . . .
 
Buck1950 said:
Somerset, Up until 2017 I had progressives for work (on computer 6+ hrs/day), bifocal with a large 'reading' bottom for at home, and Tri-focal for 'outdoors' like range when I needed close/mid, and long distance. I had glaucoma (both eyes) and went thru 4-5 years of laser-perforation of the corneal 'rim' (iridotomy) and finally he determined I was developing cataracts in both eyes and best course was implants for both eyes. There are implants that have 'variable focus' to avoid needing 'readers' somehow, but they're $2-3K 'extra', the basic is covered under MSI so I went with that. In the USA it's several $K per eye, I understand. They did them 3-4 days apart, wearing a patch for the eye 'done' for the interim. I was advised to Not shoot at all for a month or so to allow healing, then not shoot 'hi-cal' for another month or so. Now I just wear 'readers' when shooting so I can see 'a tiny bit better'? May just be 'in my head'? Sometimes I forget to put them on and don't notice a diff for a few shots, my vision is so much better - I have to take glasses off to use the spotting scope. The Big diff overall is I see White paper 'really white - not beige', colours are More Distinct and I choose to wear sunglasses outdoors. You're advised to wear them the first month or so anyway, but I prefer always outdoors tho I'm 6+ years down the road.
When I wore Tri's I had to hold my head tilted back to get the proper 'area' of the lens for the reticle clarity. Really uncomfortable after a couple hours of bench shooting. Now my 'other end' is where the discomfort resides. :rolleyes:
I'd suggest you at least discuss this with your optometrist as a possibility to improve your remaining vision.
And anyone else reading this post, too . . .
Click to expand...

I will inquire. Hey, why not. Thanks for this. Right now I have a pair of "desk" glasses that only work to see the screens properly, I have the other ones where I have to roll my head around to get a clear picture. I think if I grew up with it, I'd be used to it, but I just despise glasses...
 
Yep, I didn't 'need' glasses until I was in my late 30s, vision test for forklift driver renewal. Then Bi's around 45 when 'the fine print' didn't look so fine. The Progressives came when I got a desk job and started the head-rolls for focus. The Glaucoma was detected by optometrist before it was noticeable to me, as was the cataracts. Really slow progression of both. Amazing what you get used to.
 
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