Best sight in zero for .243 75gr hp?

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Looking for suggestion for zero for .243 .75gr hp. I am shooting a savage model 11 20" barrel. Looking for no hold over for 0-300yrds for shooting coyotes. Bullets traveling appx 3100-3200fps according to my Lyman manual using 38.1 gr Varget. What zero would make the most of trying to hold right on coyotes out to 300yrd ranges?
 
That velocity you quote, even if the manual has it right and usually they are optimistic, is not very swift for 75 grain bullets in a 243.
My Marlin 243 with 22 inch barrel shoots 75 grain HP at over 3400 fps, as shown by the chronograph. No sign of excess pressure and even I can shoot five shot MOA groups quite regularly.
But I don't think you will do that with Varget.
I do it with either Superformance or 414.
About 2 inches high at 100 might reach your goal.
 
H4831 so I'm guessing my velocity would be slower than posted in the Lyman book? They quote 3180fps For 37.8gr Varget but I'm guessing test rifle for them would have a min 24" barrel. How much velocity drop off could I expect per inch of barrel length?

I've done some testing, 5 loads increasing by .3 grain increments and got the best group with 38.1gr . But had some weird test results at longer distances than 100yrds. Set the zero for 2" high at 100 but some testing put the group 8" high at 193yrds???? I've reset zero to be dead on at 200 yrds hoping this will allow me to be a little low at 100 and about 6-7" low at 300yrds??? Am I guessing correctly that the bullet is moving slower and making a more rainbow trajectory?

Im gonna head back to the range this weekend to verify 100, 200 hopefully 300yrd Impact points.
 
If your guesses are correct....

A 75gr Bullet like you describe if hitting 2.7" high at 100 will hit 3.9" low at 300.... I assumed it's a hornady bullet to get those numbers....

Which is out of the optimum "kill zone" on a yote.... Which is 4" IMHO.

Realistically, the load you describe is a 250y yote load.

The only way you can confirm your zero, is to shoot it at your preferred ranges..... Shoot at 100, 200 & 300 and adjust accordingly.

The only way to compute your trajectory with any kind of accuracy, would be to know exactly which projectile you are shooting (75gr hp is descriptive, but not "exact" make and model is important) and at what the measured velocity is and how far from the muzzle it was measured.....

Cheers!
 
It is a hornady bullet. I' m gonna shoot at the 3 yardage interval 1,2 and 300yrds to confirm bullet drop from my rifle. I guess it's the only way to know for sure. Thank for the replies
 
Rifle bullets tend to shoot pretty flat to their zero range, then drop of quickly beyond that point, but zeroing for a maximum point blank range requires the size of the target to be taken into consideration. While you can zero for 250 yards for less drop at 300, you might be confounded if the maximum ordinate takes you off target at some mid-range point. If you don't know the exact velocity or your bullet's BC, the best advice is to get out and experiment with 200, 225, and 250 yard zeros to see which benefits you the most at longer and at shorter ranges. Confirm your long range zero, but also confirm that your 150-175 yard impacts are within the size of your target. You will find though that correct range estimation is very important, and close enough usually isn't.

If your scope reticle has hold-off points, those can be used to manipulate trajectory. For example, with a duplex reticle, the bottom of the top post might be in coincidence at 100 yards, when the scope is zeroed for 250, and the top of the bottom post might be in coincidence at 400 yards. Bracketing a target between those points and the center cross-hair might give you 200 and 300 yard zeros respectively. While the exact values will depend on your particular scope and reticle, and the height of your scope's center above the bore's center line, it is something you might find useful in the field.

Be sure to record your drop at 100 yards and at your longest impact range. If you have these two points correctly worked out, you can work backwards with a ballistics program to determine the drop at any range between those two points. Ensure that your long range bullet drop does not include an error. For example, lets assume your theoretical drop at 300 yards is 7", but the holes in the paper seem to be 10" low, that suggests your BC, velocity, or range is something other than you thought it was. Manipulating the BC on the ballistics program should correct the prediction errors, if the range and velocity estimates are correct.

If you don't have a laser rangefinder, get one. Not knowing your specific BC or velocity is one thing, but if your range estimation is off significantly, your presumptions concerning trajectory at any given range will be inaccurate; tweaking the BC on a ballistics program won't remedy the problem. When you're actually hunting, the LRF will be useful for marking specific landmarks so you know when the coyote is at a certain range. Its 230 yards to that rock, its 175 yards to that tree, its 440 yards to that fence line, and so on. Once the coyote passes any of those pre-ranged landmarks, you will have a firing solution already worked out. That is much easier than attempting to work out the bullet drop on the fly, as the coyote lopes past you.
 
I've used Strelok (it's a free ballistic app) with decent results. If you know your actual holds at 100, 200 and 300, you can input the specs for your load and compare your targets to the holds the app calculates. You can adjust your fps data to help align the app and your load if the data seems too far off. It isn't perfect, but it helps with holds for longer shots and wind adjustments. I like to plug in some different wind and range data just to get a sense of the variance in ballistics in different conditions. I've found that helpful later on when estimating in the field, especially for wind.

Edit: I totally agree with Boomer on the range finder, and his advice for using it in the field, I do excatly the same thing.

I manipulate the fps data in my ballistics to tweak the results because I assume the published bc is correct, but I'm not as sure about the published velocities and I don't have a chronograph.
 
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Looking for suggestion for zero for .243 .75gr hp. I am shooting a savage model 11 20" barrel. Looking for no hold over for 0-300yrds for shooting coyotes. Bullets traveling appx 3100-3200fps according to my Lyman manual using 38.1 gr Varget. What zero would make the most of trying to hold right on coyotes out to 300yrd ranges?

Your question is ,,,, "Your Answer" . That is ,,, shooting "Right On" on a 300 yd. coyote means you sight in @ 300 Yds.

However I will add info. from Hornady Fourth Edition book . Using the 75 gr. @ 3100 f/s & a 300 yd. zero , you will ;
1 - shoot 3.9" high @ 100 yds.
2 - shoot 4.8 " high @ 200 yds.

Maybe that is what you wanted ? ,,,,,,,,,,,, Frank
 
The Sierra program on this computer produces results akin to Frank's.
Checked, using 50 yard increments, and zeroes every 50y to 300.
That load isn't going to give you "point blank" performance on a coyote, o - 300y.
 
I have a simple rule for zeroing rifles:

2600 fps or under = 150-175 yd. zero
2600-2800 or so = 200 yd zero
2900-3100 = 250 yd zero
If you have a cartridge capable of 3400 fps +, then you could probably stretch the zero by another 25-50 yds.

With rifles zeroed as described above, the bullet normally doesn't rise more than 3". The range where the bullet drop exceeds 12" ( aim at hair, not air) is where I call it quits for any given bullet/velocity combination.
 
Put some powder behind them bullets boy, 75s in a 243 are capable of close to 3500 fps (like H4831 says) or even 3350 from your 20" barrel. Then you will find you can hold hair to 400 mtrs.
 
Thank you all for your replies guys. I'm just starting to work out the loads and impacts for my set up I've been sticking to the manual for load data. I know I can speed the bullets up but I work on that more in future. Seems like shooting a lot more will give me my answers. Thanks again.
 
change the zero distance to get either 1 inch or 1.5 inch low at 300, it will be alot closer to place crosshair on center of height of coyote and pull trigger
 
If you are shooting the 75 V-Max at 3300 [realistic speed] you can sight in 1.9 inches high at 100, and be less than 4 inches low at 300.

Range 0 50 100 150 200 250 300
Velocity - fps 3300 3148 3001 2859 2721 2587 2457
Energy - ft.-lbs. 1813 1650 1500 1361 1233 1114 1005
Path - in. - 1.5 0.6 1.9 2.2 1.4 -0.5 -3.7

This is a typical chart, but if you use a less sleek bullet, the results will be somewhat different.

Regards, Dave
 
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