There are so many varieties of gun cleaning solvent out there, I'm curious about other experiences. I'm scrubbing out a 44 Bisley (all lead fired bullets) and was looking at some chemicals. Is Hoppe's the best? or is the Browning spray can powerful enough to cut through the lead?
Best solvent?
- Thread starter kell2784
- Start date
Solvents that will actually disolve lead, in the same manner that ammonia reacts with copper, are pretty rare and very unpleasant. Metallic lead is quite unreactive.
That said, I had good results on light leading with a treated cloth called "lead Away" or something like that.
In my experience mechanical means are the most effective at removing heavy leading. I used to have a set of rubber plugs of various bore sizes that one wrapped with a fine brass mesh. This worked very well.
<<Edited to add>> I've also been told that a couple of cylinders of jacketed bullets will reduce the amount of lead in the bore.
That said, I had good results on light leading with a treated cloth called "lead Away" or something like that.
In my experience mechanical means are the most effective at removing heavy leading. I used to have a set of rubber plugs of various bore sizes that one wrapped with a fine brass mesh. This worked very well.
<<Edited to add>> I've also been told that a couple of cylinders of jacketed bullets will reduce the amount of lead in the bore.
I guess I should have added that I will be using a steel brush and elbow grease to mechanically remove the deposits. This Lewis tool sounds like something I should get also.
Does a few cylinders of jacketed act the same way and remove some of the lead also? I'm hesitant to fire jacketed in the Ruger Blackhawk due to wear on the grooves, or is the effect minor?
Does a few cylinders of jacketed act the same way and remove some of the lead also? I'm hesitant to fire jacketed in the Ruger Blackhawk due to wear on the grooves, or is the effect minor?
If the leading is not too thick, you can try something like M-Pro 7 (Hoppes Elite) which will get under lead and loosen it.
I have used it and it takes a lot of soaking for heavy deposits but seems to work. Note that it will not work on high velocity copper/lead where the metals have "bonded" molecularly to the steel.
I have used it and it takes a lot of soaking for heavy deposits but seems to work. Note that it will not work on high velocity copper/lead where the metals have "bonded" molecularly to the steel.
Kell, you're using a steel brush on your barrel; but you are worried that a few dozen jacketed bullets will casue wear 
The Ruger Blackhawks used to see extensive use in the metallic silhouette game, which involves shooting out to 200m IIRC. The S&W model 29's were getting gound to pieces under the constant pounding of the hot (and yes, jacketed) loads. The Rugers, Dan Wessons and (for folks that had really good jobs) the Freedom Arms revolvers just kept pitching them in there.
The bore on your Ruger is not going to be worn appreciably by hundreds of jacketed rounds.
The Ruger Blackhawks used to see extensive use in the metallic silhouette game, which involves shooting out to 200m IIRC. The S&W model 29's were getting gound to pieces under the constant pounding of the hot (and yes, jacketed) loads. The Rugers, Dan Wessons and (for folks that had really good jobs) the Freedom Arms revolvers just kept pitching them in there.
The bore on your Ruger is not going to be worn appreciably by hundreds of jacketed rounds.
kell2784 said:
You will ruin your barrel very quickly with a steel brush, I don't care how soft it feels.
I have seen a couple with the rifling looking very worn and shooting terrible... and nothing but lead had been shot in them... but they had been cleaned using a stainless steel brush. It will wear your barrel out very quickly.
Jacketed bullets won't wear your barrel out and can be loaded to higher velocities if you would like to.
prosper said:
Even if it does, DO NOT ever use it! You will run the risk of inhaling mercury oxide vapour which will stay in your lungs because it is so heavy and that is something which you do not want to have in your lungs. In short, mercury is considered to be a highly toxic element.
bluebell said:
I'm not advocating that you use it; it's also likely to be cost prohibitive. But elemental mercury is nowhere near as dangerous as most people think - it's the organo-metallic mercury compounds that are the nasties. Don't get me wrong, elemental mercury should always be handled appropriately; but it's a common misconception that metallic elemental mercury is particularly dangerous. Hell, people used to drink the stuff a hundred years ago - it was the only moderately effective syphillys treatment before the advent of antibiotics.
I support prosper on the Mercury issue. Mercury Vapors are very toxic, but it has to be heated considerably to give off vapors. Metallic Mercury just requires common cautions. However, You must be careful that metallic Mercury does not touch your gold ring, necklace or bracelet, because it will dissolve it just like it does lead, and it will simply ruin them. Regards, Eagleye.
Eagleye said:
Ye gods... somewhere I have an old (c.1920) book called "Gilding, Silvering and Bronzing" which my grandfather owned. One of the techniques they mention is making an amalgam of mercury and the desired metal, rubbing it on with the fingers (!!!!!) and then heating it in a gas muffle. (!!) The author does remind the reader that mercury vapours are "highly injurious to health." No kidding.
Stuart
I got a can of WIPE-OUT. Brushless Bore Cleaner from my local gun store. Well I tell you that stuff is pretty good. Just google SharpShoot-r.com and you can read the info on it. It really cleaned the copper out fast. Anyway this product should be given a try I think you will like it.
Someone at our Gunshow was selling it and the gun shop in town got a few cans. I am impressed.
Someone at our Gunshow was selling it and the gun shop in town got a few cans. I am impressed.
