Best upgrades for the range?

PutativeSquirrel

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Hey guys, I have a Ruger M77 with decent glass and I like to use her at the range. She is .30-06 and is pretty accurate so far, but I was wondering what enhancements I could do right off the bat that are hopefully easy/inexpensive? Glass bedding and trigger jobs sound familiar? :confused:
 
Trigger jobs can range from easy and expensive to time-consuming and cheap depending on your skills. I would get a better stock before doing any bedding since that plastic one is bound to have some flex in it.

Do you handload? Lots of good recipies for the 30-06. One of my favorite parts about shooting is handloading. You can get started with about $100 worth of kit if you pick up a Lee hand press. They're not as difficult to use as you might think and the portability means you can sit on the couch and resize while you watch CBC.
 
I agree. You rifle was designed for hunting (and is terrific in that role) and you will rapidly reach a point of diminishing return by investing huge dollars in trying to turn it into a benchrest-accurate rifle. Bedding is a biggie, and hand-loading will extract the most out of it. You should be able to get 1MOA or better out of it.
 
I could be wrong, and it could be the angle of how the rifle is positioned, but it seems as though your scope is not mounted correctly. Typically the turrets are up top and to the right, yours seems to be up top and on the left side of the rifle ? Unless there is some reason I am not aware of and it needs to be mounted this way.
 
I could be wrong, and it could be the angle of how the rifle is positioned, but it seems as though your scope is not mounted correctly. Typically the turrets are up top and to the right, yours seems to be up top and on the left side of the rifle ? Unless there is some reason I am not aware of and it needs to be mounted this way.

Is there such a thing as a left handed scope?
 
Oh, I installed it myself. Would this mean the scope is upside down? The way my last scope was mounted it was on the left so I just copied that. Would this be a problem? And yes I did not intend her on being a high tech range piece. I wanted it for precision shooting at the range and for hunting.
 
I could be wrong, and it could be the angle of how the rifle is positioned, but it seems as though your scope is not mounted correctly. Typically the turrets are up top and to the right, yours seems to be up top and on the left side of the rifle ? Unless there is some reason I am not aware of and it needs to be mounted this way.

I noticed that before I had a chance to read the post..

Technically it's not going to change anything you will see through the scope.. You may however have fun when reading the turrets and adjusting "up" to go "left"...
 
Since we are talking about scope mounting, we might as well touch on how to get the scope sitting straight in the rings. If you intend to shoot at long range you will need to make both elevation adjustments for range and windage adjustments to correct for wind conditions, spin drift, and various other bogey men. There is nothing more frustrating than finding that an elevation adjustment creates a windage error or that a windage adjustment creates an elevation error simply because the scope is not square.

Getting the cross hairs straight without canting can sometimes be a challenge. There are all sorts of gimmicks you can buy to ensure that your cross hairs are not canted such as plastic wings with lines that you are supposed to line up with the horizontal wire, level-levels, and helpful hints like hold the horizontal wire on the horizon or hold the vertical wire in the center of the cocking piece, etc, etc, I discovered a quick and dirty solution to the problem that is reasonably simple and satisfactory. Open the hinged floor plate so that you have a flat surface to index, and remove the windage cap from the scope. Then place a carpenter's square under the magazine box and against the windage turret of the scope. Provided you have a flat bottom on the rifle as an index, any canting is immediately obvious as there will be a space between the top or the bottom of the windage turret and the square. If the under side of the rifle does not provide a flat surface, take the action out of the stock and place the square on the magazine box or on the bottom surface of the receiver.

When you tighten down your scope ring screws, increase the torque gradually moving from one side to the other in an X shape pattern on a 4 screw ring like the ones in your pic, to prevent the scope from rolling slightly as the ring tightens on the tube. Once the scope is secure, bore sight it and then it will be ready to sight in. Do not over tighten these screws, but do not leave them too loose either. If you don't have an in/lb torque wrench, hold the screwdriver handle vertically between your thumb and first two fingers. Even if you attempt to over tighten the screws, with this hold on the screw driver, you shouldn't be able to. Use the carpenter's square to check again after the scope screws are properly torqued.

Other accuracy enhancements you can make to your rifle might include, but are not limited to: glass and pillar bedding the action to the stock, lapping the scope rings, cutting a new crown, and lapping the locking lugs on the bolt to ensure an even lock-up. Adjusting the trigger won't make the rifle more accurate, but it might make it easier to shoot the rifle accurately, ditto for the addition of a shooting sling, and adjusting the LOP to ensure the rifle fits you well. Down the road you may wish to install a target scope, a match barrel, and an adjustable stock. Some folks find that a bipod is a useful accessory, and the installation of an Anschutz type rail on the underside of the forend will provide you with the ability to mount an adjustable handstop and some latitude as where to position the bipod.
 
Good pointers Boomer. Lets hope he first gets the scope mounted properly! The rest might be a bit daunting at this stage. I'm thinking that a helpful soul at the range will come to the OP's rescue. I couldn't imagine any range master worth his salt being able to stomach the sight of scope mounted in that fashion. lol
 
For what it's worth...

Go to a hardware store an pick up some mini bubble levels. They are made for attaching to strings (For masonry stuff i guess?). They are only a few dollars and really handy to have around the work bench. Much cheaper than the 'gimmick' ones sold by places like Brownells and Midway.
 
FYI a scope will work fine even if it is installed "left-handed". Might want to swap the elevation and windage drums, so that the one on the top is labelled "elevation" or "up/down". The windage knob on the left will read backwards, in that it will suggest that a counterclockwise turn will move the bullet's impact to the right.

There's no need to mount a scope so that its crosshairs are perfectly vertical with respect to the stock the receiver and the boreline, other than cosmetics (i.e. a scope canted five or ten degrees one way might "look wrong"). There is no problem with accurately shooting a "crooked" scope at all ranges from short to long, provided that the scope's crosshairs are held level when you aim the rifle.
 
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