Best value return to zero quick release mount????
- Thread starter flintyboom
- Start date
Your best, first option is the CGN Equipment Exchange, followed by Gun Post. If you cannot locate what you want/need there, then the best, economically-priced Quick-Detach Mount with 1" Rings is the Burris QD PEPR 1" Mount. You can buy it new for $200 plus shipping at Stoeger Canada:
https://www.stoegercanada.ca/produc...Jn3Jt-Ee8zx_Y9oWHYX3D80h_OKb8eVTWLvq2y3yLjaJy
Make sure to order the 1" Rings and the QD Mount, otherwise you will end up disappointed.
https://www.stoegercanada.ca/produc...Jn3Jt-Ee8zx_Y9oWHYX3D80h_OKb8eVTWLvq2y3yLjaJy
Make sure to order the 1" Rings and the QD Mount, otherwise you will end up disappointed.
What rifle, how high do you need the mount? Do you want a one piece or two ring?
Take at look at UTG's offerings on Amazon and see if you can find one to suit your needs.... they are making pretty nice rings and mounts these days...
https://www.amazon.ca/UTG-ACCU-SYNC-Medium-Offset-AIR11834Q/dp/B09FC1QXVQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=27OQEYO6C8B6D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fW39pB7kW-pqQl3UsiHf7cCqKkL88hkpeA8IDypAsw52OPpUdgrMkpHzUXdCCN8o6nnN4tiRqAkeaYvzuwBcOU1XurGnBCjMy58OABOTwC13051_tU3Scdc3_lanmj-0AFRDUyuB1YObNprIWi1Nwl9701Cm7P5AuunVTtHwU6wTWWvH8og64cQFYeGCJRDos5UCSg3qSohCgBkP8_c4QI16y4d5_VZYwb9QIjcDV87sIZqBC7zvymfCtPnxQay1CZZz0oH4zFtK_A71EqhILPMjzASKIOsZ3U6pcwxth84.5DYVIcHKhK7KVTonqgd01DFQTjOsl5fE-5Q4cXkTiDY&dib_tag=se&keywords=utg+pro+1"+quick+detach+scope+mount&qid=1746500208&sprefix=utg+pro+1+quick+detach+scope+mount,aps,1108&sr=8-1
Take at look at UTG's offerings on Amazon and see if you can find one to suit your needs.... they are making pretty nice rings and mounts these days...
https://www.amazon.ca/UTG-ACCU-SYNC-Medium-Offset-AIR11834Q/dp/B09FC1QXVQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=27OQEYO6C8B6D&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fW39pB7kW-pqQl3UsiHf7cCqKkL88hkpeA8IDypAsw52OPpUdgrMkpHzUXdCCN8o6nnN4tiRqAkeaYvzuwBcOU1XurGnBCjMy58OABOTwC13051_tU3Scdc3_lanmj-0AFRDUyuB1YObNprIWi1Nwl9701Cm7P5AuunVTtHwU6wTWWvH8og64cQFYeGCJRDos5UCSg3qSohCgBkP8_c4QI16y4d5_VZYwb9QIjcDV87sIZqBC7zvymfCtPnxQay1CZZz0oH4zFtK_A71EqhILPMjzASKIOsZ3U6pcwxth84.5DYVIcHKhK7KVTonqgd01DFQTjOsl5fE-5Q4cXkTiDY&dib_tag=se&keywords=utg+pro+1"+quick+detach+scope+mount&qid=1746500208&sprefix=utg+pro+1+quick+detach+scope+mount,aps,1108&sr=8-1
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Im not sure what you mean here.
Any optic i removed and remounted would have to be confirmed even if i was confident.
I wouldn’t want to count on it thats for sure.
If you are talking about an optic mount that you dont have to totally rezero an optic, i have been quite impressed with the price and quality of arken’s cantilever mounts.
Basically a return to zero but again, i wudnt bet my life on it.
Whoops. Just saw “quick detach”. UTG maybe?? I say put a hex key in your grip along side the lube or spare battery or whatever u have in there now.
Any optic i removed and remounted would have to be confirmed even if i was confident.
I wouldn’t want to count on it thats for sure.
If you are talking about an optic mount that you dont have to totally rezero an optic, i have been quite impressed with the price and quality of arken’s cantilever mounts.
Basically a return to zero but again, i wudnt bet my life on it.
Whoops. Just saw “quick detach”. UTG maybe?? I say put a hex key in your grip along side the lube or spare battery or whatever u have in there now.
One factor is 'Do you mean' MOA accuracy or "Hunting accuracy" ? I can scribe the mounting position of the rings I remove and get back on Zero within an inch at 100 or so. I don't think about trying that for my 22LR that's going ca 1/2-MOA or better.
Best value is different than best return to zero. I was always a believer in QD mounts for hunting rifles, and in having a pre-sighted-in scope back at the truck or at camp in case something happened to my primary scope.
Best return to zero, with price no object, would IMHO have to go to the proprietary system used on Blaser rifles. I've demonstrated several times to different friends how wonderfully this system works, and it still amazes me as well. I can take a shot, remove the QD scope mount from the rifle...remove the barrel from the rifle...re-attach both barrel and scope...repeat this whole procedure 5 times...and still fully expect to get a sub-MOA group, with any of the various barrels I have and on either receiver. Removing just the mount and scope between each shot, leaving the barrel in place, produces accuracy that is indiscernible from a "normal" group.
The problem, of course, is that a QD mount and set of rings will run close to or in excess of $800 today, and of course they only work on Blaser firearms. The functionality is very cool and I love it...and for some potentially long-range hunts I suppose it has practical merit as well...but for most of my hunting it is extravagantly unnecessary.
If you just want a QD system that puts the scope back on with good enough return to zero for shooting a deer at 200 yards without spending a lot of money, I think it would be tough to beat the good old Weaver rings and bases. They're ugly, and mounting a scope in them is a PITA because of their propensity to rotate the scope as you tighten the ring screws...but you can almost always count on a return to zero within 2 MOA of original, and often closer to 1 MOA. That'll do for most typical hunts.
I use the Blaser system a lot...and still have a couple of guns that are cursed or blessed with the Weaver system...as well as several others that fall somewhere in between. Whichever I am using, I still insist upon at least one shot after reassembly for the sake of confidence, regardless of how many times the system in question has proven itself reliable. That confidence is more important than another fraction of a MOA of accuracy.
Best return to zero, with price no object, would IMHO have to go to the proprietary system used on Blaser rifles. I've demonstrated several times to different friends how wonderfully this system works, and it still amazes me as well. I can take a shot, remove the QD scope mount from the rifle...remove the barrel from the rifle...re-attach both barrel and scope...repeat this whole procedure 5 times...and still fully expect to get a sub-MOA group, with any of the various barrels I have and on either receiver. Removing just the mount and scope between each shot, leaving the barrel in place, produces accuracy that is indiscernible from a "normal" group.
The problem, of course, is that a QD mount and set of rings will run close to or in excess of $800 today, and of course they only work on Blaser firearms. The functionality is very cool and I love it...and for some potentially long-range hunts I suppose it has practical merit as well...but for most of my hunting it is extravagantly unnecessary.
If you just want a QD system that puts the scope back on with good enough return to zero for shooting a deer at 200 yards without spending a lot of money, I think it would be tough to beat the good old Weaver rings and bases. They're ugly, and mounting a scope in them is a PITA because of their propensity to rotate the scope as you tighten the ring screws...but you can almost always count on a return to zero within 2 MOA of original, and often closer to 1 MOA. That'll do for most typical hunts.
I use the Blaser system a lot...and still have a couple of guns that are cursed or blessed with the Weaver system...as well as several others that fall somewhere in between. Whichever I am using, I still insist upon at least one shot after reassembly for the sake of confidence, regardless of how many times the system in question has proven itself reliable. That confidence is more important than another fraction of a MOA of accuracy.
''getting a true return to zero'' ?
First: ''true return to zero'' don't exits. There is always a ''little something'' that makes the bullet going near to zero, but not realy spot on zero.
How much ''near'' is the first question you have to answer to do a good choice.
Like Buck1950 said: ''MOA accuracy or "Hunting accuracy'' are not the same.
One plays inside 1/2 MOA , while the other plays around 2 MOA at 100 m and inside 1 MOA at 200.....for deers. For moose, the numbers can be multiplied by two.
I think you can achieve a good zero return for a hunting setup, if you put all the odds in your favor:
- Mount a steel Picatinny rail on your action: Screwed (blue Loctite) and glued on the action (epoxy)
- Use good brands steel QD rings: Leupold or Warne (blue Loctite) and position them correctly (contact of the front surface of EACH ring AT THE SAME TIME with the rear surface of a slot in the rail)
Now...
Reload your ammo.
Clean the barrel (de-coppering)
Practice, practice, practice
First: ''true return to zero'' don't exits. There is always a ''little something'' that makes the bullet going near to zero, but not realy spot on zero.
How much ''near'' is the first question you have to answer to do a good choice.
Like Buck1950 said: ''MOA accuracy or "Hunting accuracy'' are not the same.
One plays inside 1/2 MOA , while the other plays around 2 MOA at 100 m and inside 1 MOA at 200.....for deers. For moose, the numbers can be multiplied by two.
I think you can achieve a good zero return for a hunting setup, if you put all the odds in your favor:
- Mount a steel Picatinny rail on your action: Screwed (blue Loctite) and glued on the action (epoxy)
- Use good brands steel QD rings: Leupold or Warne (blue Loctite) and position them correctly (contact of the front surface of EACH ring AT THE SAME TIME with the rear surface of a slot in the rail)
Now...
Reload your ammo.
Clean the barrel (de-coppering)
Practice, practice, practice
Couple of yrs ago, I bought a set of QD rings to try on my Browning 300WSM . They were the UTG LE (law enforcement) 6 hole -30 mm rings goin on a pic rail.
Put them around my Bushnell 4500 4X 4-14X44. After getting the final adjustment of the QD locks finished, to where I wanted them for closure pressure, I headed to the range.
Once I zero'd the scope, I shot a few three shot groups in the BOX formation. shoot 3...go Rt 3..down 3..left 3...up 3. After seeing the scope perform and track great, I popped it off the gun. Put two shots down range for S & G then put the scope back on.
I was genuinely surprised, actually very pleasantly surprised that the rifle returned to exactly where it was zero'd for !! I repeated the box target, with 3 shot groups once again mixed in with the first groups. Flyers aside by me, these rings impressed the hell out of me they did !! For the price I was very very satisfied. At that time, I had several stainless Browning A-Bolt II's all S/A guns, my thoughts were to be able to swap out any scope with either of these 4 rifles.
Liked them so much so, I also added a set to my Tikka 6.5 PRC (30mm)! Last yrs sight in I popped off the scope and put it back on...same results...bullets clustered together with my previous groups.
Sadly, due to my health issues, most of my A-Bolts, and my 2 PRC's have now left the safe, along with a few other rifles.
I'm sticking to my love of shot gunning for as long as I possibly can. Sporting Clays, Skeet and Trap are my only vice now.
Put them around my Bushnell 4500 4X 4-14X44. After getting the final adjustment of the QD locks finished, to where I wanted them for closure pressure, I headed to the range.
Once I zero'd the scope, I shot a few three shot groups in the BOX formation. shoot 3...go Rt 3..down 3..left 3...up 3. After seeing the scope perform and track great, I popped it off the gun. Put two shots down range for S & G then put the scope back on.
I was genuinely surprised, actually very pleasantly surprised that the rifle returned to exactly where it was zero'd for !! I repeated the box target, with 3 shot groups once again mixed in with the first groups. Flyers aside by me, these rings impressed the hell out of me they did !! For the price I was very very satisfied. At that time, I had several stainless Browning A-Bolt II's all S/A guns, my thoughts were to be able to swap out any scope with either of these 4 rifles.
Liked them so much so, I also added a set to my Tikka 6.5 PRC (30mm)! Last yrs sight in I popped off the scope and put it back on...same results...bullets clustered together with my previous groups.
Sadly, due to my health issues, most of my A-Bolts, and my 2 PRC's have now left the safe, along with a few other rifles.
I'm sticking to my love of shot gunning for as long as I possibly can. Sporting Clays, Skeet and Trap are my only vice now.
I have a couple of levers that replace one of the side screws in Leupold/Redfield styles mounts. One is mounted on a scout rifle I built long ago. Works, though return to zero isn't always exact. Mostly because it's hard to get the same torque on it every time you tighten it. I have a set of claw qd mounts on an old German built Weatherby I have. Those work a little better, but it still isn't exact. I'm not sure you could build something that was 100% repeatable at a reasonable cost. - dan
The QD mount has to be matching to the rail, every kind of wiggle room depletes the back to zero. Those QD mounts are adjustable, with a flick of a finger you release them, the amount of force to release them requires some kind of fine tuning. Too many variables for me.
I haven't found much in terms of value for money, the good ones cost a lot. I've had mixed results with QD rings in general, and tragic results when paired with cheap aluminum 2-piece mounts and no way to guarantee the same torque. Always off by more than I'd like, lessons learned when I was much younger and more optimistic about the marketing claims.
The Burris PEPR mount with one of their Xtreme 1-piece bases is available in a 1" tube size for a bunch of different action types. I think just about everything else is either 30mm and up and a lot more expensive (Nightforce, Spuhr, Area 419, etc), typically intended for competition or tactical use.
The Burris PEPR mount with one of their Xtreme 1-piece bases is available in a 1" tube size for a bunch of different action types. I think just about everything else is either 30mm and up and a lot more expensive (Nightforce, Spuhr, Area 419, etc), typically intended for competition or tactical use.
I've used ATRS rings installed/reinstalled with a torque screwdriver and it worked fairly well. My Blaser mounts were on the money as well. Pricey (maybe even overpriced) but everything about the R8 works as advertised.
I've got a burris PEPR mount, and if I was buying another similar mount today I'd buy the UTG that I linked to for $110.00 and call it a day....
Good glass, in a decent mount with solid square lugs, in a decent pic rail with the setup secured against the recoil blocks should get you back on paper within a couple inches.... not what you want at the Olympics, but for swapping optics around between rilfes and using notes to dial in the different settings and then fine tune if needed, I don't see why not.
Good glass, in a decent mount with solid square lugs, in a decent pic rail with the setup secured against the recoil blocks should get you back on paper within a couple inches.... not what you want at the Olympics, but for swapping optics around between rilfes and using notes to dial in the different settings and then fine tune if needed, I don't see why not.
