Best way to determine COAL?

That is kinda what I do except I just cut one slit in the neck with a hacksaw and then i can use pliers to tighten the neck if need be. I insert the round, close the bolt then slowly open the bolt and use my finger to keep the round from being drug along side the chamber. Measure and repeat 10 times and take the average. It is important to use the SAME bullet you used doing this to set up your seating die though. What ever bullet you use in your dummy round, use the SAME one to set up your die. We know not all melpats are created equal, or if your using a bullet comparitor then you probably can use another bullet, but i'd use the same one anyway.
 
All great ideas and info. Thanks to everyone.

Since I'm using a single shot T/C Encore I just used the black marker on the bullet trick.
I can also feel the bullet touching the rifling of the bullet when insert it so I adjusted my die accordingly.
I will try the split neck on the case method at a later time.


Is it weird that I wish I had more ammo to reload?
 
I load the round with the bullet you want to use in an unfilled case with a slightly loose neck so the bullet can slide in and out, and with the primer hole drilled out. Mount the fake round into the gun with the bullet as far in as possible (with the bolt out ) with the round in the chamber use a rod that will fit in the drilled out primer hole and gently push the bullet till it just touches the lands and then carefully remove and measure total length and then subtract .010 to .015 off and that puts you at max length with a slight bullet jump for that bullet. Make sure this measurement with fit your mag and if it does you are good to go. Important thing to remember is that every bullets ogive is different so you must do this for every bullet you are going to use. I used this in over 12 rifles with great success, it's easy quick and clean. Goodluck and have fun with it.

Awesome stuff..... I just tried this method with my Weatherby Vanguard varmint in .223, and came up with four measurements after a dozen tries, its tricky, sometimes it'll "squib" the load, anyways the average of the four tries was 2.395! so i'll try a dozen or so of 2.295 and a dozen or so at 2.280, I figure i'll use 23 gr of benchmark under the 53 gr V-Max, and see if i can get better groups!

good stuff... Thanks.

ginnz
 
Me too.

Another thing I do:

Take a projectile and drop it into the chamber and give it just enough of a tap to keep it there. Put something in the end of your cleaning rod to cover the jag hole. Slip the rod down the muzzle until it touches the bullet. Make a mark on the rod. Remove the bullet and replace the rod. Slip it down until it touches the bolt face. Make another mark. Measure the distance between the 2 marks on the rod. Make sure that the rod is not resting on the plunger/ejector when taking your second measurement.

Not even REMOTELY going to work with a seating depth sensitive bullet.... sorry. Can you visualize 5/1000th of an inch, let alone mark it on a cleaning rod?
 
Not even REMOTELY going to work with a seating depth sensitive bullet.... sorry. Can you visualize 5/1000th of an inch, let alone mark it on a cleaning rod?

Can I mark it on a cleaning rod? Yes. Dry erase marker - rinse repeat - same result. Pretty sure the OP isn't toting his Encore to a bench rest competition. And when you're new, having several methods to check the same thing isn't dumb.
 
Can I mark it on a cleaning rod? Yes. Dry erase marker - rinse repeat - same result. Pretty sure the OP isn't toting his Encore to a bench rest competition. And when you're new, having several methods to check the same thing isn't dumb.

Let's agree that what is required is a measurement with an accuracy on the order of 5/1,000th (or 1/200th) of an inch.

The thinnest mechanical pencil you can find (and that will take some looking) is 0.3mm, which is 0.012". (Not at all sure you can find a permanent marker that fine, but let's use it for discussion.) Such a point is, in other words, capable of marking a line about 1/80th of an inch wide. Assuming everything else is perfect, that's your maximum accuracy potential. That's less than a third of the level of precision required. Moreover, you have to do it twice - once with a cartridge and once without. So it's off by a factor of six.

Now factor in the inherent problems with trying to get the point precisely up against the muzzle, the inevitable distortion in a marker's point (we've all seen it) that comes with use, etc. Add those on and you cannot possibly get a measurement accurate within a factor of ten.

Perhaps it could be said that all you have to do is measure the distance between one side of one line and the same side of the other line. Really? What are you going to measure with? A normal ruler would of course be pointless, so you'll have to use a micrometer or calipers. Unlike measuring a real object with calipers however, where the jaws run into resistance, you're going to have to eyeball it - eyeball the difference between the edges of two lines a mere 1/80th of an inch wide. Sorry, but I don't think so.

Oh, and is the front end of your rod precisely square?

In short, while this is probably a good way to check general measurements, there would seem to be enough compounding potentials for error that I remain unconvinced that it be relied upon to provide precision measurements.
 
You're over thinking it. If I hold a marker perpendicularly against the muzzle and make a mark, and then hold it the same way for the second mark, it makes no difference if that mark is exactly at the muzzle opening. It makes no difference if the tip of the device is square. The width of the writing instrument is irrelevant. It's the relationship between the 2 marks that is important. Measuring to the edge of the line with the points of a vernier caliper and getting repeatable results is not a stretch. Try it.

The problems with this method start when you assume that the meplat of the bullet used to take the measurements is identical to every other bullet in the lot. Without a comparator handy, you use a dummy round to set and audit your bullet seater. I should add that I always start at least .015" below my measured max COAL.

I am in complete agreement that a chamber gauge is the way to go, if you have one or are so inclined to purchase one. Still, my way works for my purposes which is to determine a starting point for the creation of some rounds to begin load testing. I may vary the COAL in future loads to better exploit the particulars of my rifle, at which point the measurement I use is just a reference off that original trial. I believe this was the spirit of the OP's original question.

Furthermore, as I mentioned previously, having more than one method to verify COAL is helpful if nothing more than to gain confidence in what you are doing.
 
looch - I fully agree with it as a starting point, but I really have difficulty accepting that anybody's hand is capable of being that steady, having that degree of consistancy. Maybe yours, not mine.
 
looch - I fully agree with it as a starting point, but I really have difficulty accepting that anybody's hand is capable of being that steady, having that degree of consistancy. Maybe yours, not mine.

No ill will, Atom. I am a hunter who appreciates precision over accuracy. I spent 10 years operating a CNC hydraulic press brake and am very comfortable with a vernier caliper, but I don't think it's beyond anyone's ability to "sense" a 5 thou variance on the needle.
 
Dang! This method worked ok for my Savage Model 12 .308, but I cannot for the life of me get a measurement for my .223!! (Weatherby Vanguard). The bullet sticks in the BBL, or is just hanging out the case when i pull it..... I tried two dozen times and gave up. Gonna have to try something else.

with the .308, i got an Ideal coal of 2.861 with the 155 gn A-Max that ive been using. An initial test showed great promise! I've ordered a bullet comparator, once I get that in, I'll really get to work..... ;-) thanks guys
 
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