BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Not strong enough. Epoxy is king in situations like these.
Best way to fix this cracked stock?
- Thread starter CoryTheCowboy
- Start date
Not strong enough. Epoxy is king in situations like these.
BUM, you'll be amazed at how thin the epoxy gets with a good hot hair dryer or a mid to low setting from a heat gun. It gets like water.
I'd suggest not using a solvent in this case with the epoxy. The glue that flows into the cracks will prevent the solvent from evaporating. And when trapped in the glue it will prevent a proper joint from forming.
For a small and tight crack like this carpenter's glue is actually good to use other than for one reason. And that is that it just won't wick into the joint and fill the crack without a LOT of help. So unless the piece is loose and can be removed to provide for spreading the glue heat thinned epoxy is a better option.
Alcohol does not dissolve and flush away old oil. So I'd be highly suspect about how well it's going to clean the wood. And in fact alcohol doesn't even mix with petrochemical oils such as we typically use in gun work. Try it, drop some oil into some alcohol and shake it up.
I'd suggest not using a solvent in this case with the epoxy. The glue that flows into the cracks will prevent the solvent from evaporating. And when trapped in the glue it will prevent a proper joint from forming.
For a small and tight crack like this carpenter's glue is actually good to use other than for one reason. And that is that it just won't wick into the joint and fill the crack without a LOT of help. So unless the piece is loose and can be removed to provide for spreading the glue heat thinned epoxy is a better option.
Alcohol does not dissolve and flush away old oil. So I'd be highly suspect about how well it's going to clean the wood. And in fact alcohol doesn't even mix with petrochemical oils such as we typically use in gun work. Try it, drop some oil into some alcohol and shake it up.
gunrunner8
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, B.C.
That part of stock has multiple cracks and looks deteriorated enough that I wouldn't bother fixing it.
Just cut the whole middle part off with saw, file the sides of the opening flat, prepare new hardwood piece and epoxy it in place.
That way the whole repair will be stronger than trying to reinforce the rotten wood.
Just cut the whole middle part off with saw, file the sides of the opening flat, prepare new hardwood piece and epoxy it in place.
That way the whole repair will be stronger than trying to reinforce the rotten wood.
There is a LOT to be said for this idea.
And if it were me doing this job I'd use a piece of Baltic birch ply so there's some cross grain wood to hold this obviously delicate piece together. Baltic Birch plywood is the stuff where EVERY layer is birch hardwood and there's lots of layers.
You can buy a small piece of aircraft birch plywood from a hobby shop that deals with RC models. You may need to buy something a little on the thin side but you can easily laminate this plywood up to the thickness you need.
It's great stuff as it is very split resistant compared to just about any other sort of plywood or solid wood.
The idea of completely removing the damaged area and replacing it with a strong stable wood has good wise merit. It is obvious this is weak area of the stock. If you were to replace it with walnut in the same grain orientation it most likely will just split again. Using a high grade plywood as suggested would not look good but be highly functional. Perhaps a good close grained hardwood epoxied in place and stained to match is a good compromise. Walnut could be used if the stock was drilled and doweled through this area. It really depends on how skilled you are with this sort of thing and how important it is to you to have it fixed properly and permanently.
Edit to Add: On second look at the pictures you don't have a lot of room to drill and dowel on either side of that hole. Two things come to mind if it was mine. First I would pry the stock apart to widen the cracks, then force some epoxy in as described. After that set up and dried I would carefully set up a drill a 3/8" to 1/2" hole right through the stock from side to side and right through the middle of the existing action screw hole. I would then epoxy a dowel of black plastic or what ever you find suitable in place. After she dried up good I would redrill the action screw hole right through the dowel, level it all up nice on the inside with more epoxy, finish up the exterior dowel ends and your good to go.
Second: If the present cracked area would not tolerate the drilling without splintering up I would cut it out as previously mentioned and replace the area with walnut or whatever you choose then drill, dowel, epoxy and redrill as I described.
Edit to Add: On second look at the pictures you don't have a lot of room to drill and dowel on either side of that hole. Two things come to mind if it was mine. First I would pry the stock apart to widen the cracks, then force some epoxy in as described. After that set up and dried I would carefully set up a drill a 3/8" to 1/2" hole right through the stock from side to side and right through the middle of the existing action screw hole. I would then epoxy a dowel of black plastic or what ever you find suitable in place. After she dried up good I would redrill the action screw hole right through the dowel, level it all up nice on the inside with more epoxy, finish up the exterior dowel ends and your good to go.
Second: If the present cracked area would not tolerate the drilling without splintering up I would cut it out as previously mentioned and replace the area with walnut or whatever you choose then drill, dowel, epoxy and redrill as I described.
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Maybe beating a dead horse here but haven't seen this yet - the "super" glues include cyanoacrylate based products. These glues have less surface tension than water - and fill any crack by penetrating deep. I have used these successfully for many repair jobs, the crack simply fills up with the thin glue and bonds almost instantly. No hair drier or wallpaper gun required.
In these cases, I remove the old finish on the stock with Circa 1850 furniture stripper (this removes all oils as well). When down to bare wood, apply the super glue in stages (if necessary) and clamp tight. If the crack is not visible, I will finish with 3 coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane to seal the area - this stuff is tough as nails and provides an impervious protective layer to the elements. If the area is visible, I'll either refinish the entire stock or try to spot finish using the mused original finish and blend using 0000 steel wool and/or pumice based wood polish (Howards makes several with various particle sizes to control sheen/patina).
If the area is structurally important, and still invisible, I would apply a thin layer of original JB Weld and forego the Spar Urethane above. JB Weld is readily available at most hardware stores and is the toughest of the tough (and stronger than the original wood). I have used it for minor repairs and bedding - it's rock solid.
In these cases, I remove the old finish on the stock with Circa 1850 furniture stripper (this removes all oils as well). When down to bare wood, apply the super glue in stages (if necessary) and clamp tight. If the crack is not visible, I will finish with 3 coats of Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane to seal the area - this stuff is tough as nails and provides an impervious protective layer to the elements. If the area is visible, I'll either refinish the entire stock or try to spot finish using the mused original finish and blend using 0000 steel wool and/or pumice based wood polish (Howards makes several with various particle sizes to control sheen/patina).
If the area is structurally important, and still invisible, I would apply a thin layer of original JB Weld and forego the Spar Urethane above. JB Weld is readily available at most hardware stores and is the toughest of the tough (and stronger than the original wood). I have used it for minor repairs and bedding - it's rock solid.
This was my first inclination, but didn't want the o.p. to take on something that may be outside of his ability. If your confident in doing this, or know someone that can do it, this would be the best repair.
