bipod for my ten/twenty-two?

archerynut

Regular
Rating - 96.9%
31   1   0
Location
Calgary, Alberta
for the most part, I'm wondering how they mount to the forend of the stock. does it require drilling right into the stock in the manner of sling swivels? wholesale sports and the shooting edge here in town sell harris bipods and when I saw them on the rack after having bought my gun, I thought they might be nice for dustin' richardson's ground squirrels in the spring?
 
Yes, you do need a sling swivel stud, the style on the right;

slingswivelSTUD.jpg


Hey usually come in sets of 2, the long (as shown) for the shoulder-end of the stock, one with a shorter threaded section for up front. They're easy to install if you take your time, and drill the right size hole. Test your drill bit size in a pc. of dry hardwood, then with the barrel/action out of the rifle, drill/install~you're done.

BTW, I had a rifle I had no intentions of using a sling with, and I bought a single stud from a gunsmith.

Good luck!
 
The swivle stud that I have on my 10/22 didn't require drilling, it fastens to the rifle between the barrel band. I have not tried to mount my Harris to it before though.
 
Sometimes you get lucky and theyve got bulk packs of swivel studs but I usually wind up having to buy a complete set of 9 things I dont want for the one little part I do. Both styles will work up front with wood or synthetic, adding a little epoxy will help keep it in place, a good idea since bipods are hard on sling swivels. If your on a budget I have no complaints with my shooters ridge bipod that I payed less than $70 for IIRC.
 
Measure back approx. 1" on the fore end of the stock.
Drill a counter sink hole with a 7/32" drill bit to a depth of 1/8".
Then, drill in the same hole to a total depth of 3/8" with a 5/32" bit.
Take your bipod stud and screw it in s l o w l y using a long finishing nail threw the hole in the stud (this is your tool to turn it in).
Done!
 
Sometimes you get lucky and theyve got bulk packs of swivel studs but I usually wind up having to buy a complete set of 9 things I dont want for the one little part I do. Both styles will work up front with wood or synthetic, adding a little epoxy will help keep it in place, a good idea since bipods are hard on sling swivels. If your on a budget I have no complaints with my shooters ridge bipod that I payed less than $70 for IIRC.

I paid $74 (out the door) for a non-swiveling 9-13" Harris during their annual no-tax event. I'd rather spend money on guns than the stuff you strap to them, but Harris' really are worth a little more. Mine replaced a crappy Caldwell I bought from Bass Pro...thinking I was saving. Cost me $60 + tax. Lesson learned.
 
Did it on mine, used a small drill bit, then a bigger, can't remember sizes, but always smaller than the swivel stud. 3 fingers width from the barrel band.

img2211y.jpg
 
Savage 93FV 22WMR , Boyds Tacticool,
Harris 9-13 notched leg swivel base with pod lock lever
Bushnell 3200 elite 3x9x40

The notched leg versions are easier to set up as the legs extend outwards with the spring action .The pod locking lever makes it easier to lock the swivel base into position than the supplied thumb wheel.
The Harris is the benchmark of bipods if you are going to get one get a good one and a bunch of swivels for the rifles that dont have any.

Savage93FVa.jpg


Savage93FV.jpg


podloc01.gif
 
Does your 10/22 have a barrel ban or no barrel band?
You'll definitely have to compensate for the position of your stud if it's banded.
 
Back
Top Bottom