Bipod shooting while hunting

daka

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Sorry if it is an old story or post but recently went deer hunting and used bipods. Never had so many chances and a misses at the same time.
Remove the damn thing and got the deer.
Even grab the cardboard to see the grouping( should try it before the hunt). All the shots other than occasional one to the point of aim went up and left , some in group, some all over the place.
Now the question is properly shooting from bipod or "loading" the bipods.
I am a right handed shooter and not bragging but never had problems such as these, been shooting deer, bear and moose without buck fever or any of that BS. Waited for every shot so the opportunity present itself before the "squeeze"...
what I did wrong and what is the proper way to do it...
I understand if you already discussed this over and over again but if you got a minute or two, I would really appreciate if you could throw an insight or two...
Thanks
 
Depending on the rifle you're using, setting up with a bipod can significantly effect the POI. Example, I've got a Savage axis and it has a terribly flimsy front end of the stock. When I set up with a bipod the stock flexes and can even be pushing against the barrel on different spots, changes where it shoots significantly.
All this to say, my guess is that this is what's happening with your rifle. Hope that helps!
 
What spotswood said is a good point, when I bought my 700 the hogue stock flexes like a noodle, that all changed when I put a more ridged chassis on it. That being said I usually just use my backpack, it’s easier to have a level shot on uneven ground and it doesn’t get in the way when you’re hiking through the bush.
 
How much have you practiced with a bipod on the rifle?

My reaction to the OP is to suggest you spend a few hours shooting the gun from various positions with the bipod and see if you just need to learn how to use it effectively. I use shooting sticks rather than a bipod because they allow me to get above all the grass and bushes that interfere when shooting prone, and I like the horizontal movement that is so easy with sticks compared to bipods. I practice with the sticks all summer on gophers etc. and the help a LOT on anything over 100 yards. My most trusted hunting partner uses a bipod all the time, and he practices with it often. You need to use your hunting equipment often enough that it is not "new" when you go hunting.
 
Depending on the rifle you're using, setting up with a bipod can significantly effect the POI. Example, I've got a Savage axis and it has a terribly flimsy front end of the stock. When I set up with a bipod the stock flexes and can even be pushing against the barrel on different spots, changes where it shoots significantly.
All this to say, my guess is that this is what's happening with your rifle. Hope that helps!

This problem can be fixed (on the axis as well as others with the same problem of a flexible stock) with liberal sanding of the barrel channel. In this case you don't just want it free floating, you want enough clearance between the barrel and stock to prevent them from touching even when you use a bipod ect.
 
Shooting with a bipod requires as much practice, if not more, than shooting from any other field position. As previously mentioned, some bipods will affect POI. This will be even worse if poor technique is used.

My main issue with a field bipod is I find most of them too low to clear tall grass and whatever else is growing around where you will be taking the shot. Instead of bipods, I've practiced shooting from bags. I can shoot accurately from every backpack I take with me in the field. A taller backpack will allow you to shoot prone, sitting and maybe even kneeling. Smaller backpacks can be used prone. You can also carry around a dedicated shooting bag, like a Wiebad Tac Pad, which doubles as a seat when you need it.

I find shooting from bags doesn't really affect POI. In fact, I zero all my rifles from the bench using only bags. I find the POI to be the same with bags as with other field shooting positions.
 
The bi pod is most likely flexing the stock and contacting the barrel.

Best cure IMHO is a Boyds lament stock upgrade :)
 
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Thank you all for replying and there is some useful hints to pay attention to.
Instead of quoting each one of you, I will try to, like this, in one short paragraph hopefully to touch bases on all of your posts or inquiries.
I have laminated Sako 85 and it was sighted from sand bags rest and it works like a charm.
With bipod I have very little or closer to none experience. I dont find them useful as well especially after the last hunt where beside the misses I also run into the problem with taller gras or sticks on the fields.
I consider and bought the sticks, tripod and single one as well. They work great for gophers, stand hunts and to have them in the car but not really big fan of carrying them around especially for mountain hunts I planned to use bipods for.
My question is how to use bipod properly or it is every gun its own story.
Whether to lean forward and transfer to weight on the bipod or pull back and releif the weight off the bipod.
What does "load" the bipod even really mean?
Can someone clarify these and I would greatly appreciate every advice.
Thanks guys
 
Sorry if it is an old story or post but recently went deer hunting and used bipods. Never had so many chances and a misses at the same time.
Remove the damn thing and got the deer.
Even grab the cardboard to see the grouping( should try it before the hunt). All the shots other than occasional one to the point of aim went up and left , some in group, some all over the place.
Now the question is properly shooting from bipod or "loading" the bipods.
I am a right handed shooter and not bragging but never had problems such as these, been shooting deer, bear and moose without buck fever or any of that BS. Waited for every shot so the opportunity present itself before the "squeeze"...
what I did wrong and what is the proper way to do it...
I understand if you already discussed this over and over again but if you got a minute or two, I would really appreciate if you could throw an insight or two...
Thanks

I've been using the Harris Bi-pod for over 25 years and never had an issue with POI. You may want to try something that I do. Whenever I install the bi-pod, I never torque on the set-screw which tightens it to the front stud. A very "slight" finger tightening is all what is required................and no, it never came off.
 
A harris style bipod requires practice like others stated. But what does that practice mean.
My offering is that you consider the following criteria:
Requires the use of a sling, wrapped around forearm and preferably behind bicep.
Practice all positions, uphill, down hill, flat, side hill. These will all affect how you shoot.
Requires a solid rear rest, ie a filled sock, rolled up fleece, or other repeatable platform (not easy to carry around heavy stuff when in the field).
Requires trigger control and repeatable trigger hand control on the stock. ie pinch top and bottom of the stock wrist, or other. Some top competitors dry fire many thousands of times in the dark to perfect this.
May require use of the scope hold for repeatability in field conditions. Again requires much practice.
Remember to push into the stock against the bipod (load the bipod).

All of these factors will help when using a bipod. The same goes with using a soft day pack or other rest and be sure not to hold the stock sandwiched between the pack. Hold behind or against the pack.

It is not uncommon to have left or right hits at distance without using these methods. So considering the factors above will help with improving your hunting accuracy. Remember, you are not managing to make a 2" group at 500m in an F class competition. Rather, a kill zone on an elk of 10". So Be happy with field realities when you achieve them.

Elkys 2c.
 
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A harris style bipod requires practice like others stated. But what does that practice mean.
My offering is that you consider the following criteria:
Requires the use of a sling, wrapped around forearm and preferably behind bicep.
Practice all positions, uphill, down hill, flat, side hill. These will all affect how you shoot.
Requires a solid rear rest, ie a filled sock, rolled up fleece, or other repeatable platform (not easy to carry around heavy stuff when in the field).
Requires trigger control and repeatable trigger hand control on the stock. ie pinch top and bottom of the stock wrist, or other. Some top competitors dry fire many thousands of times in the dark to perfect this.
May require use of the scope hold for repeatability in field conditions. Again requires much practice.
Remember to push into the stock against the bipod (load the bipod).

All of these factors will help when using a bipod. The same goes with using a soft day pack or other rest and be sure not to hold the stock sandwiched between the pack. Hold behind or against the pack.

It is not uncommon to have left or right hits at distance without using these methods. So considering the factors above will help with improving your hunting accuracy. Remember, you are not managing to make a 2" group at 500m in an F class competition. Rather, a kill zone on an elk of 10". So Be happy with field realities when you achieve them.

Elkys 2c.

I completely disagree with the comment that a sling is required and must be wrapped around your arm.
When using my rifles with a bipod, I never hold the front of the rifle. That is what the bipod is for. Pulling on the sling will give sideways torque on the rifle. I use one hand on the pistol grip and trigger and the other in the vicinity to help solidify the rear of the stock. This makes it easier for me to pull the trigger and have the only personal pressure on the gun going straight back on the trigger not sideways on the fore end. Similar to free floating your barrel is the way I look at it. I may be wrong but it has sure improved my accuracy.
 
I find that bipods attached to the rifle, such as the Harris, are virtually useless for my style of hunting. I used them in the past, mostly for varmints or predators, and those guns were shot almost entirely off the bipod so I was familiar with their characteristics when used that way. Nowadays, I simply have no interest in carrying around a gun so equipped.

On the other hand, a free-standing bipod...or, better yet, tripod...such as a BogPod, Stoney Point, Trigger Stick or other works great when you need it and want to carry it, but can be left behind or carried in a pack when not required. I like to make sure the tops are well-padded so the rifle rests on a soft surface, and there is no "loading" required or desired. The gun rests quite lightly on the padding; if I have not used that particular rifle with a pod in the past, I usually prefer to hold the forearm in my hand and rest that on the padded pod top. This works, depending on the height of the pod, from standing, kneeling or sitting positions. For prone, if I am in one of those rare situations when that is a useful option in the field, I much prefer resting across a daypack, rolled-up jacket or hat. In any of these positions, the rest simply supports the front of the rifle and keeps it from wobbling; it doesn't alter the POI at all.

IMHO the Stoney Point standing-height bipod, made up of sections of tubing held together with a shock cord, is just about perfect. It weighs next to nothing, collapses down to fit into even a tiny daypack, assembles quickly to full height, can be used partly assembled for sitting or kneeling...and simply cannot be mistaken for something that is "tacticool". :)
 
I've been using the Harris Bi-pod for over 25 years and never had an issue with POI. You may want to try something that I do. Whenever I install the bi-pod, I never torque on the set-screw which tightens it to the front stud. A very "slight" finger tightening is all what is required................and no, it never came off.
Thanks man, tightening it too hard was defenetly a thing that I did...
 
All of these are worth considering, for sure...
Only thing I have not understand from the comments is loading the bipod and elk hunter touch on it a bit...so do I lean on the rifle and have rifle pushed forward with bipod legs toward me or opposite to have them away and rifle pulled in my shoulder or neither and just use as a rest and neither pull or push forward
 
Finger tight . . . either a quarter or a dime is my level of torque.
The bipod requires some practise while trying to duplicate field situations.
Similarly, someone using one of those "Iron Monsters" for sighting in and then goes to the field believing he did everything possible to be properly sighted in may be sadly mistaken. Plus those "IM's" are just to heavy to pack beyond 20 yards . . .
The Harris set the standard and there are lots of knock offs today. Just don't sent a knock off to Harris Engineering for repair without return postage; Knock offs tend to be recycled in Kentucky.
Used Harris bipods since 1981. Prefer the notched leg models. The swivels models are nice in some situations with a scope mounted level in certain situations of uneven terrain.
 
A couple times a year I'll see guys at the range with their Harris bipods on backwards. They take some weird bounces when you do that.:)

More interesting is the owner's reaction. Some get all cross-threaded about it.
 
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