Birch wood Casey Tru oil found

257Wby

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GunNutz
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Just ran across some Birchwood Casey Tru oil stock finish at Lee Valley Tools Edmonton and thought I would share the information.
Cheers
 
Walmart has it in a bottle and areosol can
I wouldn't buy anything from Lee Valley I could get somewhere else.....unless I had money to burn. I don't enjoy paying 2x the cost for something available elseware

In other news I found my nose.
 
I have had similar issues. Shaking the all livin bejeezus out of the can preceding use followed by extensive inverted spraying proceeding use HELPS...frankly I never saw the point of aerosol after using the rub on stuff.

I like using circa 1840 antique danish oil varnish on some guns as well. Available at home hardware, home depot, Canadian tire, rona, casstle building centres..... LoL

Medical gauze and surgical swabs are a great lint free 100% cotton aplicateor too.
 
The spray cans clog a lot.
Scott...

Perhaps that is why my local WalMart put them on clearance a couple years ago. At $2 a can I bought as much as I thought would last me the rest of my life. Or perhaps they were just getting out of Birchwood Casey aerosols, the Gun Scrubber and Barricade were the same price and I got all that was left. I use those more.
 
I have 3 cans I bought and didn't use right away. About 3 months later I went to use them and all 3 were pooched.Not one would spray and place I bought wouldn't refund on them. Now the liquid form is awsome. If you use the Armourall method it can be applied 3 coats a day with ease.
Scott...
 
I have 3 cans I bought and didn't use right away. About 3 months later I went to use them and all 3 were pooched.Not one would spray and place I bought wouldn't refund on them. Now the liquid form is awsome. If you use the Armourall method it can be applied 3 coats a day with ease.
Scott...

Armour-all method? Do tell
 
Ok so the polymers in armour all and truoil interact with each other causing accelerated drying of the truoil.
I would apply truoil to a stock and then vacuum chamber it to cause it to sink into the wood deeply and then use armour all on top layers for accelerated drying.
 
ciphery, I have tried the Armour-all trick and I found no difference. Not sure how pulling a vacuum on a stock would force it deeper into the wood, maybe pressure would be better, or not, ...mmm. I have also found that True Oil sinks or shrinks over the years looking at work I have done for myself a number of years ago. I don't use it any more. When I did use it I found the best way to apply it was to thin it with lacquer thinner and spray it with a cheap airbrush. Be sure to wash your steel wool in acetone etc. before you use it. For a high gloss finish I use a gloss two part epoxy that you can use for a mirror after you rub it out and for oil I use a German linseed oil based finish that dries hard overnight and really works like nothing else I have ever used.
 
The vacume pulls the air in the wood pores out allowing capillary action to take over and suck the oil in deep while the atomaspheric pressure pushes it in. Same method is used on carbon fiber/fiberglass/kevlar to ensure 100% fiber saturation.
It was just a thought
 
The vacume pulls the air in the wood pores out allowing capillary action to take over and suck the oil in deep while the atomaspheric pressure pushes it in. Same method is used on carbon fiber/fiberglass/kevlar to ensure 100% fiber saturation.
It was just a thought.
 
Vacuum used in composite construction is actually a pressure situation using atmospheric pressure to squeeze/clamp the parts together, squeezing against a mould. I am just arguing not saying I am always right!! A vac around a part creates a constant pressure around the part so nothing happens, I think.
 
My bad I said vaccume chamber. I should have said vacume bag. But yest it squeezes the resin into all the voids in between the fibers and also squeezes the fibers into the mold.
I've stabilized wood burrels for knife handles this way.
 
Yes a vacuum bag would certainly work. You would have ridges where the folds in the bag are and these thicker areas would take many days to harden completely or pull it out of the bag while still wet and wipe off the excess. You could also do this with epoxy so you could sand the ridges the next day and then go to Tru Oil if you like.
 
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