BL-22 misfires

Dogleg

Dogleg

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I've had my BL22 for about 15 years, though it did a lot of sitting in that time. It always had the occasional misfire, but not an alarming amount considering the cheap ammo I usually run through it.
Anyway, last fall the misfires started to get more frequent. I stripped and scrubbed it down with little improvement. Next I dropped it off at my gunsmith to check out. Firing pin protrusion, headspace and the face of the chamber all check out, as does the mainspring. Really, he couldn't find anything wrong with it, and didn't charge anything. With continued use, about 1/2 case of ammo or more this spring the misfires have got very frequent, to the point of 4 or 5 per magazine. A second strike nearly always fires the cartridge, and the indentation appears light to me. There is a slight wear mark on one side of the hammer, so I polished the inner frame where it contacted.This may have helped, today when I tested it misfires dropped to perhaps one per magazine. This was unchanged with 3 or 4 different brands of ammo, with the usual suspects of American Eagle, Federal, Winchester and Remington being tried.
Anyone have any thoughts on what could be causing this?
 
I have the exact same problem. I haven't shot it since last fall. But I haven't taken it to my smith either.
 
If I'm buying the $1.59 spring anyway should I just buy the new firing pin for $16? I don't like paying $10 for shipping on a $2 part.
 
Should your problem persist after replacing the spring; if there is room, you might try to resolve the problem by shimming between the main spring and the follower with small washers. Ensure that the recess for the extractor is clear of fouling. This is sore point on several rimfire lever guns and is easily overlooked. If the problem persists, perhaps lightly stone the contact surfaces of the firing pin to ensure there are no burrs or tooling marks causing the problem, and ensure that the face of the firing pin is the correct shape.
 
The firing pin protrusion should be checked as well... it should protrude flush with the end of the bolt, if it does not that make require adjustment ... and the firing pin should move freely from the back position, forward until it stops... the firing pin return spring should be holding it to the rear so a portion of it protrudes out the back of the bolt where the hammer can contact it... I have had to weld a bit on the rear of some firing pins to extend them a bit farther so the hammer was able to induce a bit more inertia when it stuck the firing pin. Make sure the firing pin return spring is holding the firing pin fully to the rear... if it is not you will get misfires...
 
stuckon308 said:
If I'm buying the $1.59 spring anyway should I just buy the new firing pin for $16? I don't like paying $10 for shipping on a $2 part.
Click to expand...

I suspect that we are looking at 2 different springs. Could you be be looking at the firing pin spring? It just pushes the inertia pin back.What you want is the mainspring. (I think) Shipping costs on small items are a drag, but whatchagunnado?I couldn't think of anything else that I needed. For me it's usually cheaper than driving to pick up the same part in town.
 
Guntech,
The firing pin protrudes .040 from the back of the bolt, and the return spring seems to be popping it right back. When I push the pin ahead until it is flush at the back of the boly it is also flush at the boltface. Pushing it all the way ahead takes it flush with the upper bolt-face extension, which is a technical term I just made up.:D The pin moves freely. I'm going to check to see I can make the pin slide farther back to get a run at the primer. If you extend the firing pin does that convert it to a non-enertia type?

Boomer,
Are you suggesting to preload the spring with washers? That might work.
 
Dogleg said:
Guntech,
The firing pin protrudes .040 from the back of the bolt, and the return spring seems to be popping it right back. When I push the pin ahead until it is flush at the back of the boly it is also flush at the boltface. Pushing it all the way ahead takes it flush with the upper bolt-face extension, which is a technical term I just made up.:D The pin moves freely. I'm going to check to see I can make the pin slide farther back to get a run at the primer. If you extend the firing pin does that convert it to a non-enertia type?
Click to expand...

Sometimes the angle of the hammer and the angle at the back of the bolt do not allow the hammer to "hold" the firing pin flush... the angle block stops some of the "power" of the hammer...

I just this moment remembered the last one I did... I ground about 10 thou off the back of the bolt, allowing more protrusion hammer contact... that was on a rifle that had misfiring problems since the day he bought it new...
 
guntech said:
Sometimes the angle of the hammer and the angle at the back of the bolt do not allow the hammer to "hold" the firing pin flush... the angle block stops some of the "power" of the hammer...

I just this moment remembered the last one I did... I ground about 10 thou off the back of the bolt, allowing more protrusion hammer contact... that was on a rifle that had misfiring problems since the day he bought it new...[/QUOTE]

I like the way you think.:DcThis is something that I long suspected myself, and even suggested to the gunsmith. He didn't like idea but I still do. I'm not known for caution, he is. This .22 has always had more than it's share of misfires, it just has gotten unbearable in the last year, perhaps as age aggravates an already marginal condition. This built-in "Flinch checker function" has got to go.
Click to expand...
 
Up-date. I took a relief cut on the back of the bolt; might have helped a little but still getting a misfire per magazine. The main-spring arrived from WGP. Got that in and it's a different gun. The BL22 managed to choke down a brick of American Eagle without a misfire today. Gophers beware.:evil:
 
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