Black Oxide Finish

If it's the stuff I used, preface it with a cold hydrochloric acid pickle. The black does not hold up to abrasion terribly well but if you heat the metal afterward and treat with parafin or parafin oil (like WD-40) it is very chemical resistant. Very. For a basic sporter project it is an excellent, easy, and safe way to finish the metal, if treated with a pickle beforehand. Spillage shows it also works to a degree on stainless. Won't touch brass or aluminum.
 
Dogfish858 said:
If it's the stuff I used, preface it with a cold hydrochloric acid pickle. The black does not hold up to abrasion terribly well but if you heat the metal afterward and treat with parafin or parafin oil (like WD-40) it is very chemical resistant. Very. For a basic sporter project it is an excellent, easy, and safe way to finish the metal, if treated with a pickle beforehand. Spillage shows it also works to a degree on stainless. Won't touch brass or aluminum.
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I was looking at the Casswell kit what mix for the pickle and any acid mix do. Thanks for the reply
 
I used the Caswell kit and Home Hardware 30% muriatic acid. I believe the acid was -5C and 2 minutes...I only recorded because warmer acid temp increases the acid's activity. The acid had been stored outside. I use shellac as a mask on anything I don't want etched. Remember the etch can change tolerances if left too long.
 
Dogfish858 said:
I used the Caswell kit and Home Hardware 30% muriatic acid. I believe the acid was -5C and 2 minutes...I only recorded because warmer acid temp increases the acid's activity. The acid had been stored outside. I use shellac as a mask on anything I don't want etched. Remember the etch can change tolerances if left too long.
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A big thanks used the process on two 1911 STI & Caspian 9mm they turned out great !
 
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