Black paint removal

Ganderite

Ganderite

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I have a British military rifle slathered in black paint so thick i can't red the serial number.

The base coat is probably the original Suncorite. The additional coat(s) may be the same, or just ordinary black enamel.

I am considering re-finishing the gun. How do I get the paint off?
 
Have you tried heating the rifle and scraping the softened paint with a blunt tool? Also, I think there are chemical paint strippers as well that may do the job. These are strictly for outdoor use though due to the toxic fumes. You may want to consider wrapping the barrelled action/parts with aluminum foil after applying the stripper and setting everything aside for 24hrs to let the stripper do its work. The thing with stripper is though that I don't know if it attacks the metal, i.e. pitting. You may want to try it out first on a piece of scrap steel. If nothing else works, just remove all finish using an abrasive and re-parkerize (providing it's not a collector's item).
 
The last one i did was in the same state an as I was redoing anyways i just stripped it down an put it in the blasting box an used Aluminum Oxide in 200 grit to take it off an then reparked an oiled .
Good luck to you an yours in the new year!!
 
This thread has motivated me to get started on taking the black paint off my mis-matched, refurbed molot SKS, so I have just now dis-assembled
it and have wrapped various parts in paper towel soaked in different "removers" and then wrapped further in aluminum foil. I will see what happens.

The two "removers" that I have used are: Lacquer thinner (tuolene, methyl alcohol) and Brake fluid (?) if anyone would like to propose some
other "removers" I will be the guinea pig for those as well. I have some varasol, but I don't want to bother with it because it is too tame.
 
skneub said:
Acetone

Unsure if you are talking on the wood , but will be safe for the metal.


Warning , it will dry out your skin.
It will get you buzzed and give you a nasty headache.
It is highly flammable.


Please do so in a well ventilated aria such as outside
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But it is -10C outside! I will steal some nail polish remover from my teenager and try it.

Update; Whew! Nasty stuff!
Dessicating, buzz, headache! I'm going to have to talk with my daughter about having this toxic warfare chemical.
 
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Robert Nicholson said:
But it is -10C outside! I will steal some nail polish remover from my teenager and try it.
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Canadian tire sells it in the auto body section.

It can also be used for cleaning paint off plastic lensed glasses .
But do so at your own risk , I myself don't even blink at it. (Having used it hundreds of times when I was the painter )
But there is always a risk
 
So, after an hour and a half, the tuolene Lacquer thinner covered bolt and gas piston is gradually loosing paint thru surface dispersion.

The brake fluid covered gas tube and receiver cover is not showing any noticeable paint loss but is softening. Handguard lacquer is melting.

The Acetone (finger nail polish grade) covered magazine is showing some paint loss thru surface dispersion (after less than an hour)

I wonder if Brake fluid has acetone in it? It seems to have the same skin drying effect that acetone has.

At the three hour mark: Not a whole lot of change. I was expecting to see bubbling and peeling - none so far.
The acetone works great for removing lacquer on the stock.

At the four hour mark; Still not much change. If the paint is cheap, anything works okay (bolt, gas tube)
but if the paint is good or perhaps powder coat like on the reciever and barrel, it only gets a bit soft. Next update - 20 hours.
 
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Don't sand or use blasting to take the old Suncorite off as the paint is toxic and much worse than lead based paint for your health.

They banned the use of this paint as it was extremely hazardous to those who applied it.

Just try chemical stripper or paint over with new black heat resistant paint.
 
I have used Easy Off oven cleaner to get paint off of parts in the past. It is caustic and quite effective! Just spray it on and let it sit for a while. Use an old toothbrush to help remove the paint from the nooks and crannies.
 
Mobular said:
I have used Easy Off oven cleaner to get paint off of parts in the past. It is caustic and quite effective! Just spray it on and let it sit for a while. Use an old toothbrush to help remove the paint from the nooks and crannies.
Click to expand...
we used oven cleaner to take sign painters one shot off truckers doors.
It is also great for removing overspray from toolboxes .

Brake fluid will strip automotive paint if it is left on the surface to long
 
I did one with brake cleaner once, in my basement. Dont ask me how it went and how long it took.... i dont remember much of that day....
 
Ganderite said:
I asked because Suncoite is supposed to be impervious to most chemicals.

Why would the dry flakes be toxic, if I sand blasted the paint off?
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Large dry flakes should be safe unless you chew on them, just don't turn it into a dust or small particles that can be ingested or absorbed into the lungs or skin by breathing and handling the sandblasted particles.

BTW, apparently you can still get it but it is highly regulated, the German company Henkel makes it -

With Henkel’s recent rebranding of many of their products, Suncorite 528 RFU is now called Bonderite O-PC 528 Black RFU. The coating still remains the same and still has the same excellent performance characteristics.
Bonderite O-PC 528 Black RFU is a semi-gloss, chromate free, self-phosphating, protective coating for any surface profile metal, offering a high performance, one process layer with outstanding adhesion and corrosion resistance properties. The coating will easily resist corrosion from salt, humidity, battery acids, fuel oils, solvents and brake fluid.
Bonderite is widely used in the coating of automotive components such as engine mountings, springs, brake components, metal pressings and virtually all under-body parts. For example, a single 35 micron coating will provide 240 hours ASTM B117 hot salt spray resistance on suitably cleaned mild steel surfaces – this meets stringent automotive specifications.

It is very expensive, a 25 lt. can costs over $1,000 and it's application comes under the environmental protection act.


Here is the safety data sheet for it -

http://www.ami-con.co.uk/datasheets/Henkel Suncorite 528 RFU Black MSDS.Image.Marked.pdf

This is it's hazardous classification -

Classification (DPD):
Flammable
R10 Flammable.
Xn - Harmful
R20/21/22 Harmful by inhalation, in contact with skin and if swallowed.
Sensitizing
R43 May cause sensitisation by skin contact.
Xi - Irritant
R41 Risk of serious damage to eyes.
R37/38 Irritating to respiratory system and skin.
R67 Vapours may cause drowsiness and dizziness.

NATO Supply Number - 8010-99-830-8654
 
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