BLO, LO and Evaporust questions

[purple]

So what I've learned is:
If I want my wood furniture to look like a Shiny Whore's belly on Christmas eve in a French Bordello, use the Boiled linseed oil, If I want it to look like it's been dragged through a flooded Dutch Polder in 1944, use the raw linseed oil.
And apply it by candlelight nightly for a week, weekly for a year, monthly for 10 years, then yearly until we are all dead
Then hope the next generation is still around to continue the care and maintenance.
Vince

Well you did ask.

 

[purple]

Don't tell anyone this is a secret, but on my shooters

I apply several coats of raw linseed 50/50 with turpentine.................

And then then a few days later I apply Minwax antique Tung oil finish to seal the surface of the wood.

It nothing more than a dull looking wiping vanish that doesn't have any Tung oil in it.

There used to be quite a comprehensive writeup on the CMP forums concerning refinishing military stocks. After all of the stripping/oil removal/dent removal/filling/staining/drying steps are done, the next steps are to seal the wood with Minwax 209 clear stain to enhance the grain contrast and then to final finish with 2-3 coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish(TOF). I've done this on several Garand stocks and they turned out very well with a nice dull sheen. The key to success is to wipe off all of the excess TOF so that it dries in the wood and not on the surface of the wood.

While we are on the topic of stock refinishing, there are many cautions against quick solutions for the impatient like using a caustic stripper and/or putting a stock in the dishwasher, bathtub or shower.

 

[BCRider]

So what I've learned is:
If I want my wood furniture to look like a Shiny Whore's belly on Christmas eve in a French Bordello, use the Boiled linseed oil, If I want it to look like it's been dragged through a flooded Dutch Polder in 1944, use the raw linseed oil.
And apply it by candlelight nightly for a week, weekly for a year, monthly for 10 years, then yearly until we are all dead
Then hope the next generation is still around to continue the care and maintenance.
Vince

Ummm... not quite. Because the stocks were dipped or otherwise correctly oiled way back when you only need to re-oil on the once per year step from now to eternity. The rest was done way back when.

If it's really starved for oil I'd go with the once a month for a year step and then once a year for eternity. Or if it sees rough weather on a regular basis maybe step it up to once ever 6 months until it's more of a good weather gun again.

The "next generation"? Currently for these guns we ARE the next generation. So quite lollygadding about and GET TO WORK ! ! ! ! !

 

[chanman]

There used to be quite a comprehensive writeup on the CMP forums concerning refinishing military stocks. After all of the stripping/oil removal/dent removal/filling/staining/drying steps are done, the next steps are to seal the wood with Minwax 209 clear stain to enhance the grain contrast and then to final finish with 2-3 coats of Minwax Tung Oil Finish(TOF). I've done this on several Garand stocks and they turned out very well with a nice dull sheen. The key to success is to wipe off all of the excess TOF so that it dries in the wood and not on the surface of the wood.

While we are on the topic of stock refinishing, there are many cautions against quick solutions for the impatient like using a caustic stripper and/or putting a stock in the dishwasher, bathtub or shower.

Oh, you've read that M-14 thread where the guy put a whole NIB Norinco M-14 into the dishwasher to get the cosmo out and picked up a giant chunk of rust in the shape of an M-14, did you?

 

[cigar_man]

A little trick that I learned for restoring dry stocks comes from custom flintlock rifle builders, who just happen to be at Dixon's Gunmakers Fair (Kempton PA) as we speak.

I wish I was there!


"Scotts Liquid Gold" – Wood preservative and cleaner

wax-free, silicone-free organic oil wood treatment enhances wood's color, grain and sheen.

ht tp://www.scottsliquidgold.com/scotts-liquid-gold/


It soaks up into the wood like a dry sponge dropped in water.

It is made of natural ingredients and Linseed or Tung oil can be applied over top of it.

I have restored many dry stock antiques with Scotts Liquid Gold.