BLO or tung oil?
- Thread starter MD
- Start date
maltextract
Regular
- Location
- Rural Manitoba
If polymerized tung oil isn't lusterous enough you are doing it wrong. I worked at lee valley for a while and I am very familiar with that product. If it's not popping you are either not sealing it, not buffing it (the hand rub in hand rubbed finish), or not applying enough coats. This is a finish that has a learning curve and can be somewhat unforgiving due to a tendency to dry super fast on some conditions, because of this it is recommended to read and follow the instructions.
Also, if you want something to look like it was coated in glass, try nitrocellulose lacquer, in many coats, its self levelling and can really make wood pop, it's the finish often used on custom guitars to achieve a super clear super pop finish.
Also, if you want something to look like it was coated in glass, try nitrocellulose lacquer, in many coats, its self levelling and can really make wood pop, it's the finish often used on custom guitars to achieve a super clear super pop finish.
I actually wanted more of a matte finish, but I'm pretty okay with how my stock turned out. It is true I did not seal or buff, though I applied 7 coats if memory serves, but I did that by design.
- Location
- Behind a large rock
You’re correct... wax is the next step.
I like the BLO finish on my own Husqvarna stocks that I have refinished. Deuce-deuce is correct about the next step being a good wax job. There's a recipe that involves melting some bees wax and mixing it with turpentine and BLO. I've tried it and it does look good when dried and hand buffed.
Pure Tung oil which you can get from Lee Valley will give you far better water resistance than BLO. The other name for Tung oil is China oil because away back when the Chinese used to paint their boats with Tung oil to help preserve them. You don't have to take my word for it, obviously you have the internet research it.
I have used dozens of different types and combinations of products for stock finishes. Personally over the years I have settled on pure Tung oil for simplicity and practicality.
Personally I'd use a blend of BLO, mineral spirits, japan dryer, and spar varnish. Not much varnish but this blend is my favourite. Say 5 parts BLO, 3 parts mineral spirits, and 2 parts spar varnish with a splash of Japan Dryer. Build as you would an oil finish. Apply, let soak, wipe off once tacking up and then wiped again with a fresh clean cloth. Thin, say three coats.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Any paint store or hardware store with a decent paint section will have Japan drier, Dynamic is a brand I have bought and see often.
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There are endless recipes or formulas for stock finishes. I have a book over two inches thick in my library that I bought over 30 yrs, ago on stock finishes. The different combinations and amounts of each ingredient is mind boggling. Japan dryer is one of the standard ingredients as it aids in the formula drying. Like chocolate chip cookie recipes there are hundreds of combinations. Pick one that works for you and your all set.
I have tried a few different recipes and always come back to Tru Oil.
Doing a stock now.
I've tried the Danish Oil and am really impressed with it, but lack the patients on
waiting for it to dry.
Going for a fourth coat on this old glamorous Winchester stock after me coffee.
Gun wax is a good remedy if you know the hunting conditions aren't gonna be swell.
Doing a stock now.
I've tried the Danish Oil and am really impressed with it, but lack the patients on
waiting for it to dry.
Going for a fourth coat on this old glamorous Winchester stock after me coffee.
Gun wax is a good remedy if you know the hunting conditions aren't gonna be swell.
I have used both and have found that BLO has a tendency to accumulate instead of penetrate. Pure tung oil from Lee Valley is my Garand 'go to' finish. It is a very time sensitive (and time consuming) process but done correctly will give great results.
