Blr muzzel break install
- Thread starter m_moss23
- Start date
Break is something broken... the word you are looking for is brake.
You can have the sight removed, a threaded indexed side port brake installed and the sight put back on...it still unscrews for ease of barrel cleaning... not cheap to do... and a brake on a BLR is complicated to start with. I did this on a bolt action for a fellow a while back... the only one I have seen like that...
You can have the sight removed, a threaded indexed side port brake installed and the sight put back on...it still unscrews for ease of barrel cleaning... not cheap to do... and a brake on a BLR is complicated to start with. I did this on a bolt action for a fellow a while back... the only one I have seen like that...
Very nice work indeed. Did you make the brake as well???
The only way to put that brake on is to remove the barrel from the receiver and reinstall it again. Hopefully it doesn't require a setback and rechambering.
The only way to put that brake on is to remove the barrel from the receiver and reinstall it again. Hopefully it doesn't require a setback and rechambering.
I once owned a Ruger #1 in 450 Ackley Magnum that Karl Schmidt counter bored and ported similar to the picture of Guntechs muzzle brake shown - of course it wasnt removable but it seemed to work well. The work was done before I bought the rifle so I have no idea what he charged for such a job.
Guntech, when you removed the band from that ruger sight how did you attach the sight to the brake - single screw thru the set screw hole? or did you solder it?
Guntech, when you removed the band from that ruger sight how did you attach the sight to the brake - single screw thru the set screw hole? or did you solder it?
If I had to install a brake on a BLR, I would hold the receiver in the 4 jaw, muzzle on the live center, and indicate in the breech of the barrel.
Wouldn't be quite as precise as indicating in the bore using a gauge pin at the muzzle, but should work, and would avoid removing the barrel.
I'd shift the front sight ramp back before threading the muzzle. That way, the original ramp mounting screw hole is available as a reference when setting up the Forster jig.
Then again, I probably wouldn't do the job at all, because I really don't like working on BLRs, and really don't like drilling sight mounting holes in lightweight barrels.
Sweating on the ramp avoids drilling and tapping.
Wouldn't be quite as precise as indicating in the bore using a gauge pin at the muzzle, but should work, and would avoid removing the barrel.
I'd shift the front sight ramp back before threading the muzzle. That way, the original ramp mounting screw hole is available as a reference when setting up the Forster jig.
Then again, I probably wouldn't do the job at all, because I really don't like working on BLRs, and really don't like drilling sight mounting holes in lightweight barrels.
Sweating on the ramp avoids drilling and tapping.
