I never did it before and I would welcome some education with this.
View attachment 717377
This shiny barrel is a Russian Stainless Steel #1045 material, much softer then we got used here in America, I had to rework the muzzle end threads on the lathe and the cutting chip is well defined also recrown it after that and I got a feel a bit softer. .22x500, arrived to me with a very last possible train back in Feb.2020.
This 15.5" TR polygonal rifling - non chocked - is a MOA accurate with .22 MRD's up to 75 meters this far I have it documented. I would not go for black anodizing if possible not to expose it to heat unnecessarily.
I would like to make it black as much the handguard, but I did not decided yet to blue only the portion at front that is sticking out or the entire length.
Couple years ago I purchased two Birchwood packages for aluminum and steel tuch-ups if needed anywhere on my airguns, but never opened these bottles yet.
What other brand would you suggest from your experience?
View attachment 717377
This shiny barrel is a Russian Stainless Steel #1045 material, much softer then we got used here in America, I had to rework the muzzle end threads on the lathe and the cutting chip is well defined also recrown it after that and I got a feel a bit softer. .22x500, arrived to me with a very last possible train back in Feb.2020.
This 15.5" TR polygonal rifling - non chocked - is a MOA accurate with .22 MRD's up to 75 meters this far I have it documented. I would not go for black anodizing if possible not to expose it to heat unnecessarily.
I would like to make it black as much the handguard, but I did not decided yet to blue only the portion at front that is sticking out or the entire length.
Couple years ago I purchased two Birchwood packages for aluminum and steel tuch-ups if needed anywhere on my airguns, but never opened these bottles yet.
What other brand would you suggest from your experience?
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