Bolt action .30-.30 rifles

We have a Stevens 325 and a Savage 340, one with a scope and the other with a peep. I loaded 125g Remingtons at 2550 and 150g Winchesters at 2450 fps. They shoot well and are a treat to carry. I hope you enjoy your's as much as my wife and I like ours.
 
It wasn't long ago that the .30/30 was the darling of the cast bullet bench rest shooters.....they have moved on to the .30Br. ctg. but it says something about the accuracy potential of the .30/30...I think Epps has a Uberti LowWall in .30/30 that would do good work for someone who wanted an accurate 30/30.
 
I've got a Savage 340A with a nice Weaver side scope mount. Have shot reloads with it that had "extra" powder. Better have a tough shoulder. Bought some Remington xlerators for varmint hunting, and they're nice, but don't load well from the clip.
 
Workin Man said:
If you reload for it there is no need for the x-lerators. There are lots of good 30 cal varmint bullets that would probably feed just fine from the detachable mag.
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Have to agree....great thing about the 30-30 bolt is that just about any bullet works at the moderate velocity...I like 125 Sierras at 2500 which is at the bottom left in the picturebelow... across the top and middle left are the various 170 grain bullets inluding 170 Horn/Win FN/CIL Silvertip and KKSP. The KKSP is a honey but I am down to 27. The Hornady 170 grain is my second favourite

The X shaped bullet on the bottom row is a 150 Hornady Interbond which mushrooms down to 1600ft/sec and holds together wonderfully but expands so wide at 2200+ that penetration is no better than the 125 Sierra.

In the middle are a 223 64 Win and 60 Nosler Partition, and top right a 225 Sierra at 2880 from my Norma. The 225 Sierra penetrated no better than the 170's from the 30-30 and was the only bullet to core separate to boot. Left quite a wound channel though.
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The 30-30 will still bring home lots of this!
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I get some amazing accuray from my 30-30, 830 CIL bolt action. I often get close to a one ragged hole from three shoots at 100 yards, with handloads.
 
Mudpuppy said:
It's a Savage 10FP stock that I modified to fit the 340.
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Did you free float the barrel somehow or does it still have a contact point where the barrel band was? I have one in 222 Rem and I was trying to figure out a way to do away with the barrel band, but no luck. I am trying to stay with the original stock.
 
With the original wood stock I free floated the barrel except for the first 1 1/2", eliminated the barrel band and bedded the action.
It shot really well and I never had a problem with the action working loose using only one bolt holding it in.

For the fiberglass stock I modified the action by adapting it for a rear tang screw and then bedded it with the barrel free floating except for the first 1 1/2", the barrel band was also eliminated.
 
For the rear tang screw, did you just drill and coutersink a hole in the rear part of the action, or did you have to weld or solder a piece onto the rear of the action? You don't have any pics of the modification by any chance? I guess if you had no problems with the single action screw on a 30-30 model, I shouldn't have any trouble with the 222, but I like the idea of two anchor points better.
 
Workin Man said:
For the rear tang screw, did you just drill and coutersink a hole in the rear part of the action, or did you have to weld or solder a piece onto the rear of the action?
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I have modified two of them so far, for the first one I welded a tang to the receiver and lengethend the rear of the trigger guard to get the bolt to line up. This modification is the more time consuming of the two.
You cannot just tap the action as the trigger assembly goes right to the rear and there is a pin and spring that a bolt would interfere with in that area.

For the one in the picture, I welded an insert into the trigger assembly and tapped it for the new tang screw. This allows you to leave the trigger guard as is because the new screw will line up with the original hole.

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The trigger assembly is secured very well to the action and does not move when the new tang screw is tightened. I tested the trigger pull and sear engagement before the modifications and after. There was no difference, even with the new rear tang screw cranked tighter than needed.

You don't have any pics of the modification by any chance?
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No pictures right now, a friend has borrowed the rifle for hunting season, if you remind me at the end of the season I can take some pictures for you.

I guess if you had no problems with the single action screw on a 30-30 model, I shouldn't have any trouble with the 222, but I like the idea of two anchor points better.
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As I said the rifle shot very well in the bedded wood stock with one action screw, I made the modifications just because I can :D

It's fun upsetting people at the range because your dirty thirty is outshooting their "real" hunting rifles :runaway: :D
 
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