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Theoretical question here.
So what happens if you remove 3/8" from the lugs and abutments?
Would it still have no effect on striker fall/handoff?
Not something we think about often, as blueprinting is usually done at the front end first, back end/trigger last, but removing material from the locking surfaces certainly does change striker fall.

When I was truing 700 actions less than 1/2 a thou was off the bolt face and less than 2 thou off the lugs... often less than a thou... and anywhere from a couple of thou to maybe 5 thou off the front of the receiver depending of how bad the Remington cutoff wheel was ... so it does not affect the back end much at all.

PS
I also took a thou, two thou at the most off the locking lug recesses...
 
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When I was truing 700 actions less than 1/2 a thou was off the bolt face and less than 2 thou off the lugs... often less than a thou... and anywhere from a couple of thou to maybe 5 thou off the front of the receiver depending of how bad the Remington cutoff wheel was ... so it does not affect the back end much at all.

Oh, I'm sure most blueprint jobs take an absolute minimum of material. I'm also just as sure that there are "select" guys out there who fully believe that since they own a lathe, they know what they're doing, and will peel a heavy cut just because they don't know better.

I really don't think that's the OP's problem, I just wanted to point out that the location of the lugs is the datum that everything else references off of(lengthwise, anyway). If you remove material there, the entire system is affected, including striker fall.
 
Theoretical question here.
1.So what happens if you remove 3/8" from the lugs and abutments?
2.Would it still have no effect on striker fall/handoff?
Not something we think about often, as blueprinting is usually done at the front end first, back end/trigger last, but removing material from the locking surfaces certainly does change striker fall.



1.IF,some IDIOT removed 3/8" from the integral lugs,the action would be JUNK, since the lower abutment would be GONE.

2. Linear dimension of the firing pin cocking cam is longer than 3/8",so cocking would still exist.

The issue is the ANTI BIND Rail forward end hitting the aft end of the bolt lug at the ANTI BIND slot in the RH bolt lug.

Not my FIRST RODEO,that was over 15 thousand ago!

Radius the aft corners of the bolt lugs & anti bind slot as instructed in previous post & issue will magically disappear.
Time alloted-5 minutes w/ coffee braek !!
 
The only other possibility is IF a rear entry wrench that did not have full length lugs was used to remove the factory barrel & the receiver is twisted...a Port Entry wrench will do the same.
 
1.IF,some IDIOT removed 3/8" from the integral lugs,the action would be JUNK, since the lower abutment would be GONE.

2. Linear dimension of the firing pin cocking cam is longer than 3/8",so cocking would still exist.

The issue is the ANTI BIND Rail forward end hitting the aft end of the bolt lug at the ANTI BIND slot in the RH bolt lug.

Not my FIRST RODEO,that was over 15 thousand ago!

Radius the aft corners of the bolt lugs & anti bind slot as instructed in previous post & issue will magically disappear.
Time alloted-5 minutes w/ coffee braek !!

I posed it as a rhetorical question only. I only wanted to point out that changes up front influence what goes on in the back.

15 thousand! Wow! That's a huge pile of recievers.
 
Problem solved! Put a radius on the back leading edge of the right lug and now it’s much better. Thanks.
Next question is, what compound can a person use for lapping the lugs? There’s a few automotive stores in town that I’m hoping might have something.
 
Don't lap the lugs... if the action truing has been done, lapping will not improve the fit and too much lapping may induce a taper.
 
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