Bolt handle Welding

Holy Crap, what a sh^t storm of a thread. Ken Farrel does excellent work, and is considered among the best as far as the products and services involved. What exactly is the risk involved in sending a bolt accross the border? Does any one of you have actual facts, FACTS, to support your claims. Use a little bit of common sense. If you remove your firing pin from a bolt, what does that make it? If you send a copy of your registration certificate, along with your serialized "bolt" does that prove that it has Canadian origin? All of this fuss for a $54.00 tig job on a bolt shell? If a mfg, who will remain nameless, can send bolts to Canada, what makes you think Ken can't send one back, that originated here in the first place? Also, to you guys that think welding a bolt handle is easy, step up and go and do it yourselves, and post pictures of your "work". Can't wait to see the results. Again, if you haven't done it, or don't have direct experience with what is involved, don't comment.

R.
 
Sorry, but a $200 kit from Cdn Tire is not going to weld your bolt on properly.

I prefer to silver solder because I can always undo and retry if not right. I'm no welder and would not even attempt to TIG/MIG a handle on a bolt because I know better.

Leave it to the expert welder who knows about firearms metallurgy. I know a good welder locally, but it will take time to sort out skills and I'm not even thinking about welding bolt handles yet! I cannot justify the thousands of dollars in equipment and man hours of practice to weld a couple of bolt handles properly.

I don't know why everyone is scared to send bolts to the USA. Check out it this thread.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=569335
 
Rman said:
Holy Crap, what a sh^t storm of a thread. Ken Farrel does excellent work, and is considered among the best as far as the products and services involved. What exactly is the risk involved in sending a bolt accross the border? Does any one of you have actual facts, FACTS, to support your claims. Use a little bit of common sense. If you remove your firing pin from a bolt, what does that make it? If you send a copy of your registration certificate, along with your serialized "bolt" does that prove that it has Canadian origin? All of this fuss for a $54.00 tig job on a bolt shell? If a mfg, who will remain nameless, can send bolts to Canada, what makes you think Ken can't send one back, that originated here in the first place? Also, to you guys that think welding a bolt handle is easy, step up and go and do it yourselves, and post pictures of your "work". Can't wait to see the results. Again, if you haven't done it, or don't have direct experience with what is involved, don't comment.

R.
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The US customs don't give a crap about your registration certificate, a serialized bolt, or weather you've removed the firing pin. You realise those fools are confiscating chocolate Kinder eggs at the border, that's the level of their stupidity, your not dealing with logic there. All you need is some quack on that side to claim it's a gun part with not export cert. and you're screwed sorting it out.

Timing and welding a bolt handle isn't rocket science, the guys on the US side don't have any voodoo majic they perform. We just need to get someone here set up for it.
 
You don't need a $5000 welding set up to do bolt work,
believe me your dicky don't fall of because of that!
 
lejarretnoir said:
I don't know why everyone is scared to send bolts to the USA. Check out it this thread.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=569335
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§ 127.1 -- Violations.

(a) It is unlawful:

(1) To export or attempt to export from the United States any defense article [see below for definition of "defense article] or technical data or to furnish any defense service for which a license or written approval is required by this subchapter without first obtaining the required license or written approval from the Office of Defense Trade Controls;

(2) To import or attempt to import any defense article whenever a license is required by this subchapter without first obtaining the required license or written approval from the Office of Defense Trade Controls;

(3) To conspire to export, import, reexport or cause to be exported, imported or reexported, any defense article or to furnish any defense service for which a license or written approval is required by this subchapter without first obtaining the required license or written approval from the Office of Defense Trade Controls; or...
(4) To violate any of the terms or conditions of licenses or approvals granted pursuant to this subchapter.
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§ 121.1 -- General. The United States munitions list.

(a) The following articles, services and related technical data are designated as defense articles and defense services pursuant to sections 38 and 47(7) of the Arms Export Control Act (22 U.S.C. 2778 and 2794(7)). Changes in designations will be published in the Federal Register. Information and clarifications on whether specific items are defense articles and services under this subchapter may appear periodically in the Defense Trade News published by the Center for Defense Trade.

(b) Significant military equipment: An asterisk precedes certain defense articles in the following list. The asterisk means that the article is deemed to be "significant military equipment" to the extent specified in § 120.19. The asterisk is placed as a convenience to help identify such articles.
..............

*(a) Nonautomatic, semi-automatic and fully automatic firearms to caliber .50 inclusive, and all components and parts for such firearms. (See § 121.9 and §§ 123.16-123.19 of this subchapter.)
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Sending the bolts to the US isn't the problem. The problem lies in the fact that anyone trying to send the bolts back to Canada would be violating ITAR regardless of intent. Bolts are controlled items...

Gotta love f**ked up US export law.
 
You would have to send the action also if you wanted a perfect timing with the cam, Guy from BC been doing for ever, why not use there service and help them keep the door open.
 
Dealer some time help each other, they don't give a #### if you break some kind of law or regulation, is aline themselves for a better deal next time, mean while some poor idiot lost his bolt.
 
Being a tig welder myself I can say that 54.00 is a steal. There's more to it than anyone that hasn't done it thinks. You have to do it regularly too to stay in the touch.
 
I have all the stuff to do the job. I haven't done one but I have a fudged bolt I could give it a try on.
I've mostly done aluminum, steel is much nicer to work with.
Desolder old handle + clean old solder off would take a little time.
One TIG pass around the perimeter is all it should take. There shouldn't be much for cleanup.
The front along the ramp would need to be cleaned up and the rear too.
54 does seem like a good deal.
Is there much demand? What is the main reason for doing this retiming or a new wizbang handle?
Stephen
 
bolt timing

sdeering said:
I have all the stuff to do the job. I haven't done one but I have a fudged bolt I could give it a try on.
I've mostly done aluminum, steel is much nicer to work with.
Desolder old handle + clean old solder off would take a little time.
One TIG pass around the perimeter is all it should take. There shouldn't be much for cleanup.
The front along the ramp would need to be cleaned up and the rear too.
54 does seem like a good deal.
Is there much demand? What is the main reason for doing this retiming or a new wizbang handle?
Stephen
Click to expand...

some bolts from the factory are not correct and sometimes after someone has lapped lugs or blueprinted the action if the bolt timing and such is not correct you could lose your extraction cam action
 
Went to use the torch the other day to desolder, out of O2. Hopefully in a couple of weeks I will have some picks of how it turns out stay tuned. I acutually wanted to try this out anyway. My plan is to remove the handle bush the bolt to fit the action better and reweld the handle on with it timed better.
Stephen
 
TIG weld the bushings to the bolt body & locate/time/TIG weld the handle for primary extraction.
There are a couple other operations involved.

Leave the epoxy & solders for other hobbies!!
 
All that talk about Brazing on or Tig welding, there is another method that you can do with out the need of hot flame like Acetylene, if you have access to a drill, drill two hole on the bolt handle to the bolt, with clamping of course, then tap it, 8-32 screw, use mix epoxy got from Canadian Tire, apply to both surface(Make sure clean with some scratch to the surface) then screw the handle to the bolt, make sure prep are very importance, the length of the screw some time need grinding to a specific length so that it doesn't interference with the firing pin, the three screw on this bolt been grind away, but you can still see the hex shape.
BoltCloseup_250.jpg
 
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