Bore scopes

"Endoscope" is what the borescope actually is - there are several 'sellers' on amazon. Main thing is to be sure the one you order has a 0.20 inch lens - some are larger, so if you're looking for one for a .22 or 223 you need the 0.20 inch lens.

And 'most' of the Teslong ones have a mirror to attach to allow viewing the inner surface of the barrel as shown in my pics above. You can remove the mirror to 'see forward' like if you want to see inside the cylinder of your lawnmower, cycle etc. And as I said, the 'live' pics look better than he ones I posted here.
 
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Some rifles require fouling before grouping settles... sometimes only one shot, sometime more. You just need to learn your rifle... a bore scope is certainly not a requirement... it's just the latest toy.

Of course you're right. I only recently bought one, simply because it was very cheap and I have a 223 barrel in the shop right now that has less than a hundred rounds down the tube and it won't group well.

It's a medium weight profile x 30 inch, with a 224 x 9 twist stainless, made by Hart, a few years ago.

This Covid issue is keeping me bottled up and lazy. If it weren't for the 8 kliks/day walks with the JR to coax me, I could easily be a couch potato. She's a great dog.

I have a Ruger No1 that shoots 55 grain bullets very well. I've had it since my old Coyote hunting days, where I had several ranches to keep the populations under some sort of control. It was just to expensive to keep up the circuit, so I backed away from most of it. $50-$70 per day for fuel was getting excessive to my bank account if I was going to do the job properly. When my hunting partner passed close to 15 years ago, the shine sort of went off the chase. Now I just hunt locally and when I feel like it, unless I get a call from someone desperate, with a real issue.

Back to the endoscope. I picked up a unit called "Vastar"

It's probe is just small enough to fit down a 224 bore easily.

The only issue I have with it is depth of field, but it's still very capable of doing what I require from it.

Price shipped is under eighty dollars and you don't have to plug it into a cell phone or PC. It comes complete with its own viewing device, which is rechargeable and will accept a memory chip.

Screen is in color, unlike the very clumsy units I've had access to in the past.

This little gem picked up on two issues in the bore, about 5cm from the muzzle. Two half cm long spots, about a cm apart that have serious chatter marks on the sides of all five lands.

I'm going to lop off 6cm from this barrel to see if this bore will come around.

If I had purchased it new from Hart, I would have returned it. For $50 it was worth taking a chance on.

I wouldn't have seen those chatter marks without the endoscope.

They're to deep to lap out and will be a constant source of fouling if left there, so they have to be removed.

It has a 5mm lens and fiber optic cable and comes with attachment mirrors to give you a 45 or 90 degree view.
 
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Some rifles require fouling before grouping settles... sometimes only one shot, sometime more. You just need to learn your rifle... a bore scope is certainly not a requirement... it's just the latest toy.

I have three center fire rifles that will shoot to point of aim from a freshly cleaned bore. That's out of literally going through over a thousand rifles to find them. One is an off the shelf Tikka T3, the other two are custom rifles, one made by an unknown smith and one by me. These rifles are relatively rare exceptions to the herd.

There just aren't many rifles out there that will shoot to point of aim, reliably without the amount of fouling they like.

Some rifles will shoot hundreds of rounds without cleaning but they're very rare as well. The Tikka T3 I have will shoot well over a hundred rounds consistently, before it needs to be cleaned and fouled again.

Most rifles will take at least three to five rounds to settle down to the point they can be trusted to shoot consistently to POA. It's up to the shooter to learn where this sweet spot is.

For most rifles, the sweet spot will give you 20-25 reliably consistent shots.

guntech drops these little gems here and this is one that should be engraved into a newbies memory.

Just fouling the bore isn't quite enough though.

When sighting in a rifle properly, each shot should be taken from a COLD or at least ambient temperature barrel. Ten to fifteen minutes of cooling time between rounds is the norm. Again, not all rifles require this. Some barrels have been specially heat treated or cryogenically stabilized (expensive) to eliminate this issue.

Think about this for just a second, when you're hunting game, your shot will very likely be from an ambient temperature bore. That's the one shot that really counts, so practice in that sweet spot.

How often have you been to the range and a shooter starts blasting away, without allowing his rifle's barrel to cool??? Then looks through his spotting scope and starts adjusting his telescope's crosshairs after every shot.

Most barrels will hit a sweet spot after ten to fifteen quick shots and stay there consistently, as long as you keep shooting.

Most shooters, that don't know what's happening pack up their rifles and leave, right after doing this.

Guess what happens to their first shot on a game animal from an ambient temperature barrel??

I don't mind if they miss completely, it's the wounded animal that runs away, sometimes taking days to die, that bothers me. One of the main reasons I became an accuracy freak.
 
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Marshman you’re correct, not manufacturers just distributors as it shipped from Hong Kong. Good tips also in the thread regarding not coiling it up as I wondered about that.
 
Here's what a borescope will show you: This is a 1941 Maltby with really nice wood (refurb, I would say). It looked like a nice, shiny barrel, to the naked eye. I fired about 15 reloads with a decent load of Ammomart 44 and a 185 gc Lee ww with a bit of lino through it yesterday.

This one is after I ran a linen rag soaked with some good old Hoppes' No.9 through it a couple of times:

48 Maltby bore pic.jpg

This is after running a brass bore brush through and back about 5 or 6 times:

Maltby 48 bore 2 a x.jpg

It shot poorly. I am going to try different loads and see if I can get it to shoot half decently. I was considering mounting a nice old Bushnell ScopeChief VI 2.5-8 on it with an Addley NG mount. I will need to get it shooting a bit better before I mount the scope. :)
 

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The Teslong does the job. We are a bunch of guys at our Club who own one, and they are great. After one year of regular use, I can say it is durable also.
 
Here's what a borescope will show you: This is a 1941 Maltby with really nice wood (refurb, I would say). It looked like a nice, shiny barrel, to the naked eye. I fired about 15 reloads with a decent load of Ammomart 44 and a 185 gc Lee ww with a bit of lino through it yesterday.

This one is after I ran a linen rag soaked with some good old Hoppes' No.9 through it a couple of times:

View attachment 439866

This is after running a brass bore brush through and back about 5 or 6 times:

View attachment 439867

It shot poorly. I am going to try different loads and see if I can get it to shoot half decently. I was considering mounting a nice old Bushnell ScopeChief VI 2.5-8 on it with an Addley NG mount. I will need to get it shooting a bit better before I mount the scope. :)

You still got lead in that bore..keep brushing and patchin..:)
 
You still got lead in that bore..keep brushing and patchin..:)

Yes, so I see! I dropped it off at my shooter buddy Deaner's for him to play with. Aside from the lead, there is fouling caked in the barrel. That showed up on a more extensive survey with the scope. Once he gets done with it, it will be as clean as it will ever get, then I'll dust a few jacketed bullets through it.

I am also a little suspicious that I may have not put quite enough lube on the bullets for the charge. I'll do better next time. Honest!
 
Yes, so I see! I dropped it off at my shooter buddy Deaner's for him to play with. Aside from the lead, there is fouling caked in the barrel. That showed up on a more extensive survey with the scope. Once he gets done with it, it will be as clean as it will ever get, then I'll dust a few jacketed bullets through it.

I am also a little suspicious that I may have not put quite enough lube on the bullets for the charge. I'll do better next time. Honest!

Forget the lube and start powder coating. You will never go back to lube.
 
They have scopes listed. But all either have long cables like 16 feet + or to large of cameras. I cant seem to find anything suitable on amazon.ca.

I ordered my second one (the one that works with PC, Ipad/iPhone, and anderoid) right from Teslong's site.
 
With all the pics being provide on this thread (which is awesome)
I can't believe all the 'out of focus' pics there are!
1/4/-1/2 turn of the mirror will make such a difference on clarity with different bores.

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Light Infantry

Looks like you have to go to Amazon.com, not Amazon.ca.

Teslong Rifle Borescope, 0.2inch Digital Barrel Bore Scope

New $49.98 + $20.00 shipping US funds
 
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Help me out guys. Little confusing. Is this the one to order?


36inch Flexible Rifle Borescope

NTG100 - for Windows, Mac and Android



and do i have to buy the side mirrors separately?
 
Help me out guys. Little confusing. Is this the one to order?


36inch Flexible Rifle Borescope

NTG100 - for Windows, Mac and Android


Here's what i bought Works Well ! RJ

Rifle Bore Scope, Teslong 0.2inch Gun Barrel Borescope Camera with Side-View Mirror and Semi-Rigid Cable, for Windows, Mac and Android Smartphone
Sold by: Teslong
 
I just got one of these Teslong units. Very good quality - much better than typical endoscopes on amazon. A physical bore scope will have a precision focus selector. The Teslong has a screw on 90 degree mirror which is focused by playing with how much it is screwed in.

Here are two short videos of Browning 1911-22 barrels. Both barrels were cleaned already.

The first was bought used and likely has several thousand rounds through it. The bore is a grey rather than shiny, to the naked eye.


The second is bought new, and has only 300 to 400 rounds through it.


The video sometimes starts a little bluish and then loses that, so it isn't a property of the barrel color, just a quirk of the Teslong or the video software.

Like what was said above: "you won't like what you see". The relatively new gun has a lot of scratches in the bore metal. I've been easy on it, only shooting LRN standard velocity, and cleaning it between every range trip. I'm curious how anyone would describe what they see in these examples. If you owned the first gun, would you be looking at some sort of treatment, or replacing the barrel, or is it still looking good?
 
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