bore sighter to set up a scope
- Thread starter rhkrqyr
- Start date
Bore sighter basically lines up the axis of the scope with the axis of the last 3" of the bore. This obviously isn't the same as actually firing the rifle. It usually will get you close, to minimize ammunition consumption for actual zeroing. Some folks think that setting up a scope with a boresighter actually sights in the rifle, but as you are aware, this is rarely the case. Can also be useful when a scope has to be removed and reattached. Installl the boresighter, and note how the scope lines up. When the scope is reinstalled, make sure it is aligned the same as it was before it was removed - not necessarily centered on the boresighter grid. Personally I think that eyeball boresighting will do just as good a job, perhaps not as convenient.
- Location
- calgary alberta
Very true, but absolutely NO chance of scratching the bore with your eyeball, there is that possibility with a spud type boresighter. :mrgreen:
Yes, those little spring fingers aren't really something that you want digging into the rifling, and if the spud doesn't grip firmly, the darn sighter can fall over, and the little fingers get dragged around the bore. If I don't have a cradle at hand, I cut V notches in opposite sides of a cardboard box to hold the rifle, pull the bolt, and have at it. Some folks prefer to remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt. If you are boresighting at home, just be cautious that a passerby doesn't think that someone is aiming a rifle through the window. Of course, with some designs, sighting through the bore from the breech isn't possible. I have never used one of the magnetic systems that attach to the flat of the muzzle; at least nothing is being expanded inside the bore.
- Location
- calgary alberta
I use 1 from time to time, as long as the muzzle is truly 90 degrees to the bore they seem to worl ok. NOTHING replaces just plain old shootin the gun. :mrgreen:
skeetgunner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Burlington
Archive said:
That's actually a pretty cool tip. And the patent award for a "ghost ring bore" site goes to......Archive
Way back in my youth when i didn't know any better I would take a card board box, cut two V notches in it to hold the gun steady, point it at the far wall of my apartment where I would tape a piece of paper to the wall with a single vertical line and two horizontal lines about 1 inch apart. My wife would look through the bore and tell me when the bottom line that intersected with the vertical line was centered in the bore and I would tape the paper to the wall there I would then crank the cross hairs in the scope to match the top line. I used a dentists mirror to look through the bore on lever actions.
Using this method I was always within eight to ten inches of the bull at 100 metres.
Using this method I was always within eight to ten inches of the bull at 100 metres.
I find the best boresighter to be the ones that have expanding arbors. These have less tendency to scratch the bore if inserted carefullyand grip tightly when expanded preventing the sighter from rolling around like the ones with the fixed arbors do. We have four expandable arbors that cover all calibers from .22-12 Ga. and use the .17 one as a stand alone when required. We mount over 300 scopes a year and most cutomers say we are near center on targets at 100 yds.
I have used several boresighters. The grid is sometimes not quite centred parallel with the bore. The bushnell boresighter I use now is +2, +2. that is two squares up and two squares right to be paralell to the bore. Using that grid reference to set a scope will get point of impact within three inches of the bull. Using the centre fo the grid gives a consistant point of impact about eight inches low and eight inches to the left. Get to know your boresighter.
Then there is the two shot sight in, boresight, then fire one shot at 100 metres.
Place the gun in a gun vise (or cardboard box with two V cuts) and line up the crosshairs on the origional point of aim. Keeping the gun steady use the adjustment knobs to move the crosshairs to the point of bullet impact.
The next shot should be a whole lot closer to where the crosshairs indicate, and if you do your part, right on the bull.
I just bore sight it when I get to the range, pull the bolt, sight in on the 100 target, dial the scope into the target. Of course the gun is set firmly in my tripod and rear bag. This always puts me on the paper and then I walk it into zero. I don't think I have ever shot more then 4 times to zero my rifles.
Cheap and easy!
That being said, who wants to buy my bore sighter?
Cheap and easy!
That being said, who wants to buy my bore sighter?
tigertrout
Regular
- Location
- Land of the barking dog
bore sight
I had a lot of trouble removing the bolt to bore sight my semi auto.
So I used one of those magnetic Leupold bore sighters, gets me on paper every time and no damage to the bore.
I had a lot of trouble removing the bolt to bore sight my semi auto.
So I used one of those magnetic Leupold bore sighters, gets me on paper every time and no damage to the bore.
Sorry so long to respond to you rhkrgyr (you know selling guns and things). Yes we set the crosshair to the center of the grid in allmost every case. Unless the scope is mounted very high (ie military rifle) this usually works best. Some customers ask us to set the scope to a particular distance but this would be allmost impossible unless we had a ballistics chart for every caliber and bullet weight and a formula to work with our grid. In the end I just expect to be "on the paper" at 100 yds and this is usually the case.
