Bore sighting my 10 22

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mark_

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Hey guys...please excuse the noobie question. I have mounted my 3x9 scope on my Ruger 10 22 and plan to head out tomorrow to sight it in. Before I do that, it should be bore sighted shouldn't it? How do I do that when I can't look down the barrel. Thanks

Mark
 
I havent done it but I think you could get a laser bore sighter. Then you just need to get your scope to line up to the laser dot.

FYI posting a question in one forum will usually do no need for the same question here and in general.
 
I would just mount it and put up a 2x2 foot paper at 25 yards. It's a .22 and ammo is cheap. Bore sighting is super important with expensive guns. Not so much with a .22, just use a bigger target.

Lots of ranges let you use .22's at the pistol bay, set up a paper at 10 yards and it should hit it.
 
unstableryan said:
I would just mount it and put up a 2x2 foot paper at 25 yards. It's a .22 and ammo is cheap. Bore sighting is super important with expensive guns. Not so much with a .22, just use a bigger target.

Lots of ranges let you use .22's at the pistol bay, set up a paper at 10 yards and it should hit it.
Click to expand...

Agree with the method. Even move the target closer if you have to.
Boresighting BTW is no more important with expensive guns or HP guns than any other. The practice is really overrated - if it gives confidence by all means use it. With successive times using a close target, then moving the target out to your sight-in distance, one will realize the insignificance of boresighting.
 
tdk213 said:
I havent done it but I think you could get a laser bore sighter. Then you just need to get your scope to line up to the laser dot.

FYI posting a question in one forum will usually do no need for the same question here and in general.
Click to expand...

Listen to him!
 
I use a laser boresighter on all my scoped firearms, quick and easy. Then fine tune on paper. I've also used the laser on my iron sights as well. The one I have comes with software that you can print out custom targets to get you on the right track right away.
 
I have laser bore sights and mandrel bore sights. I hardly use them any more. Most times, following the advice previously given, you can be on paper and rough zeroed faster than if you boresighted and then went directly to 100yds.
My method:
Shoot at target on a 3'x3' target frame. Shoot off the bag or rest you are going to be using. Fire a 3 shot group. Keeping the crosshairs on your original POA and maintaining a proper hold on the rifle as if firing it, move you scope adjustments to cover the group you shot. You are now rough zeroed with only 2-3 rounds used and I'll bet you are within an inch of your desired zero (windage) and within 6" (elevation) at 100yds. Simply carry out the same procedure at 100yds by moving your windage to the centre of the group and adjust you windage (right now for your hold over). Your next group will be dead centre and the 1-3" high (or whatever) you want for your expected range.
This always cuts down my shoot-adjust-shoot-adjust time and rounds.
 
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