- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
Ok, the heading didn't state it, so I'll state it now we're talking bullet casting here.
So this is an historical discussion of stuff I found out the hard way.
For many years I cast bullets using an open ladle.
This type is only slightly better than an old spoon. It works, but there are issues. You must keep the surface of the melt quite clean as you are drawing your lead from there, and can get slag in your bullets if it isn't clean. Stirring and fluxing is a constant process as you work. Easy to do with an open pot, but time consuming.
Next, a freind loaned me his bottom pour lead pot. COOL!
Very much like the above.
But then I found out that all is not perfect here either. The melt must be clean here as well, and it must be clean BEFORE it goes in the pot, as at least in this case, the opening at the top made it difficult to remove dross that floated to the top. I had as usual simply filled the pot full of old wheel weights, exactly as I had got them figuring on skimming the dross. Here I also found out that not all dirt and crap floats on the lead. It casts very fast, with just stick the mould under tripp the handle and open the mould, but.. I had a horrifying experience when I tripped the lever, the lead filled the mould, I closed the lever, but the hot lead continued to flow! WTF! I furiously opened and closed the valve to no avail. I was totally unprepared for the burning hot lead that now flowed across the bench setting fire to whatever it touched. I ran and grabbed a pot and jammed it into the small opening below the spigot. I ran into the house and got a low baking pan. Saved.
The melt pretty much emptied the pot before I was finally able to get it to stop by bouncing the valve open and shut.
Now I understood why he had said that he melts all his lead into ingots with an old pot before re-melting them into the bottom pour.
Ok, so a bottom pour required more care in dealing with the lead than I was prepared to do. I cleaned up the pot, and returned it with thanks.
Next I got myself a proper casting ladle, or as Lyman calls it, a casting dipper.
This allowed me to have the best of both worlds.
How?
Roll the spigot side of the ladle deeper into the lead melt allowing the melt to flow into the ladle through the spout normally used to hold against and fill the mould. This draws lead from deeper in the melt, where it is dross free. This also has the side benefit of clearing the spigot.
You don't have to skim as often, but you still need to stir to keep your tin in the melt.
This is where I settled, and being a cheapskate, where I will likely continue. I melt my lead in an old stainless steel pot on a propane camp stove out in the garage with the doors open.
Oh yes, the pot... I had a bad experience with a thin aluminum pot years ago. Good thing that was over a concrete floor. Pot melted, lead poured out in an unstoppable mass. Just get the hell away and watch it. Lead sticks to your hide if you get any on you and continues to burn you until it cools.
.
So this is an historical discussion of stuff I found out the hard way.
For many years I cast bullets using an open ladle.
This type is only slightly better than an old spoon. It works, but there are issues. You must keep the surface of the melt quite clean as you are drawing your lead from there, and can get slag in your bullets if it isn't clean. Stirring and fluxing is a constant process as you work. Easy to do with an open pot, but time consuming.
Next, a freind loaned me his bottom pour lead pot. COOL!
Very much like the above.
But then I found out that all is not perfect here either. The melt must be clean here as well, and it must be clean BEFORE it goes in the pot, as at least in this case, the opening at the top made it difficult to remove dross that floated to the top. I had as usual simply filled the pot full of old wheel weights, exactly as I had got them figuring on skimming the dross. Here I also found out that not all dirt and crap floats on the lead. It casts very fast, with just stick the mould under tripp the handle and open the mould, but.. I had a horrifying experience when I tripped the lever, the lead filled the mould, I closed the lever, but the hot lead continued to flow! WTF! I furiously opened and closed the valve to no avail. I was totally unprepared for the burning hot lead that now flowed across the bench setting fire to whatever it touched. I ran and grabbed a pot and jammed it into the small opening below the spigot. I ran into the house and got a low baking pan. Saved.
The melt pretty much emptied the pot before I was finally able to get it to stop by bouncing the valve open and shut.
Now I understood why he had said that he melts all his lead into ingots with an old pot before re-melting them into the bottom pour.
Ok, so a bottom pour required more care in dealing with the lead than I was prepared to do. I cleaned up the pot, and returned it with thanks.
Next I got myself a proper casting ladle, or as Lyman calls it, a casting dipper.
This allowed me to have the best of both worlds.
How?
Roll the spigot side of the ladle deeper into the lead melt allowing the melt to flow into the ladle through the spout normally used to hold against and fill the mould. This draws lead from deeper in the melt, where it is dross free. This also has the side benefit of clearing the spigot.
You don't have to skim as often, but you still need to stir to keep your tin in the melt.
This is where I settled, and being a cheapskate, where I will likely continue. I melt my lead in an old stainless steel pot on a propane camp stove out in the garage with the doors open.
Oh yes, the pot... I had a bad experience with a thin aluminum pot years ago. Good thing that was over a concrete floor. Pot melted, lead poured out in an unstoppable mass. Just get the hell away and watch it. Lead sticks to your hide if you get any on you and continues to burn you until it cools.
.
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