Bought a No4 Mk1 project the other day.

RMXC51

RMXC51

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I'll have pictures and many questions about this rifle in days to follow, as I'm an Enfield newb. I'd like to restore it (its sporterized), but not sure if its worth the trouble.

First off: What factory is AH? The left side reads:
1943
AH
Serial number

AH also appears on the left side of the barrel, just forward of the receiver.

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AH is part of the serial number. Judging by that what you have posted it is of British manufacture.

There should be one of the following

ROF(F) These 4 denote Fazakerley
UF
F
FY

ROFM These 4 denote Maltby
OFM
M
RM
R.M.

B These 5 denote BSA
M47C
BS
UB
85B

Another way to tell is to look at the very first digit(number) of the seral number. 1 denotes Maltby, 2 denotes Fazakerley, 3 denotes BSA. If it were a Longbranch there would be an 'L' in between numbers or a Savage would have a 'C' in between numbers. (IE ##L#### or ##C####)

Someone else just asked basically the same questions here so have a look.

As always do a search first. It's not that I am trying to be rude, but no sense in typing what has already been typed 30 times before.
 
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Cdn303 said:
AH is part of the serial number. Judging by that what you have posted it is of British manufacture.

There should be one of the following

ROF(F) These 4 denote Fazakerley
UF
F
FY

ROFM These 4 denote Maltby
OFM
M
RM
R.M.

B These 5 denote BSA
M47C
BS
UB
85B

Another way to tell is to look at the very first digit of the seral number. 1 denotes Maltby, 2 denotes Fazakerley, 3 denotes BSA. If it were a Longbranch there would be an 'L' in between numbers or a Savage would have a 'C' in between numbers.

Someone else just asked basically the same questions here so have a look.

As always do a search first. It's not that I am trying to be rude, but no sense in typing what has already been typed 30 times before.
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I did look up a list of arsenal codes, AH was not listed. I don't see any other stampings prominent enough to be an arsenal stamp, which is why I posted. The SN does begin with "1", so its likely Maltby. Pics will follow, you will see.
 
Okay, pics are up. I'm putting together a list of parts I'll need.

New wood all 4 pieces
Barrel bands
Front sight and shroud
Sling swivels?
 
If your wanting to restore it for your own personal reasons then go for it but if your wanting to restore it for resale then just know that the barrel has been shortened, the bayonet lugs have been cut off so resale may not be worth what you put into it. But like I said!! If it's purely going to be a shooter for you for years to come then how much you spend to restore it is up to you.
 
RMXC51 said:
I don't see any other stampings prominent enough to be an arsenal stamp, which is why I posted.
Click to expand...

There is a half stamped 'M' infront of the date. That will be the factory stamp.
EDIT: Klondiker beat me to this

As for the 'AH' on the barrel, below it, hidden under the wood should be the rest of the serial#.

As Lou has said the barrel has been circumcised. I've got a rifle to match yours. They were professionally sporterized in the 50's of 60's (probably) to be used as hunting rifles; and that is how mine is staying.

If you still want to de-sporter it for personal enjoyment you won't need all 4 stock pieces. The butt looks to be in proper order. so all you will need is:

forestock
front handguard
rear handguard
receiver ring
upper band
lower band (the one that hold the sling swivel)
2x screws for the bands
sling swivel
foresight protector (The foresight block is all there. It's just half hidden by the sheet metal ramp. That would have to be taken off.)
foresight protector screw

If you do choose to continue, there was a good thread a couple of weeks ago on how to bed the forestock.
 
I thought it might be chopped, but wasn't sure. There was another one for sale beside it, and the barrel was 2"+ shorter - it made this one look regular length.
 
Since it's been chopped, I'd just mount a scope on it and use it as a deer rifle. Plenty of other worthy candidates for restoration out there.....
 
Yours looks like a prize compared to mine! My grandfather gave me his old .303 around 30 years ago .He lived in northeastern Quebec and used it for hunting and sealing. It is WELL used ,bore is at least half worn but grooves ae still ok with rounded edges, I shot it way back then and it was still very accurate.It's a sporter ,probably from Sears or Eatons as that was about the only way they got goods back then. I had to oil down the reciever, just to be able to see any markings and most don't match any listed here. I will check the stickies later just to get an idea where it came from.
Barely found what I think is serial #HC22097 left wrist broad arrow top of wrist, bnp on side of reciever twice on either side of the pressure # 18.5 tons, also had what looks like R15 on barrel near reciever, also has a C and what looks like a c inside a horseshoe.Mine is vey rough but I would like to take her out for a moose hunt 1 more time before retiring her.
Yours would not take much at all if the bore is ok to make her a great shooter, Good luck with it!
 
I hope to try it out tomorrow. If its no good, she'll be up for parts. I will inherit a Parker Hale Ishapore 1919 SHTLE from my Dad in the future, so there will be some sort of Enfield still in the family. It hasn't been fired in 40+ years!
 
Without cross checking the AH prefix, the stylized M on the butt socket tells me it was made at Maltby in 1943. There is nothing especially valuable about a shortened barrel sporting rifle as a collector. If stripped for parts, there might be some desirable makers' marked parts that would add up to a few hundred bucks. There might not either. However, it probably still works as a .303 hunting rifle. Clean the dust off with a toothbrush and some light machine oil, and go shooting!
 
bobdbldr said:
... Barely found what I think is serial #HC22097 left wrist broad arrow top of wrist, bnp on side of reciever twice on either side of the pressure # 18.5 tons, also had what looks like R15 on barrel near reciever, also has a C and what looks like a c inside a horseshoe.
...
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I will check my book tonight to see what maker used HC. BNP stands for British Nitro Proof, and the 18.5 tons says it was tested and found safe for commercial sale. Nothing bad (or good). Although I might be leading you astray, a capital letter U was a South African acceptance mark. Then again, it could just be the mark for the company that made the barrel or someother part. The British used dozens and hundreds of subcontractors for all the little parts, which a few central makers built into finished guns.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
I will check my book tonight to see what maker used HC. BNP stands for British Nitro Proof, and the 18.5 tons says it was tested and found safe for commercial sale. Nothing bad (or good). Although I might be leading you astray, a capital letter U was a South African acceptance mark. Then again, it could just be the mark for the company that made the barrel or someother part. The British used dozens and hundreds of subcontractors for all the little parts, which a few central makers built into finished guns.
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Thanks,still looking for a sticky on markings for the enfields, I guess i should try the enfield site!
It is such rough shape, no mag. and such ,most people would chuck it away but it still shoots, good and has sentimental value. A quick question,,does the shell ejector have a tension spring or something to hold it down against the round? Mine just flops around!
 
@bobdbldr:

If your Extractor (in the bolt-head) just flops about, then you are missing the Extractor Spring. The Extractor should be held in by a tiny SCREW; the Spring rides between the Extractor and the body of the Bolt Head and is held in place by a tiny TIT on the Spring.

This part is available from several places, so no big problem. Careful putting it in, though: possible to lose the little b*sta*rd in a flash.

Hope this helps.
.
 
smellie said:
@bobdbldr:

If your Extractor (in the bolt-head) just flops about, then you are missing the Extractor Spring. The Extractor should be held in by a tiny SCREW; the Spring rides between the Extractor and the body of the Bolt Head and is held in place by a tiny TIT on the Spring.

This part is available from several places, so no big problem. Careful putting it in, though: possible to lose the little b*sta*rd in a flash.

Hope this helps.
.
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Thanks smellie, I kinda thought that wasn't right, and cdn303 much appreciated too, I missed that. Do either of you folks know what site I can go to for info on stripping her down so I can clean it up a bit more and check it over? I also could use the part that holds the safety lever in place ( the flat springy piece). Cheers.
 
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