bought my first AND 2nd glock ... maybe some regrets lol

Big JD-From the hills

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so I finaly bought my first glock.(and a brand new gen5 g22 further on here)..... a used 22gen4 of the EE here from a second owner, unknown history/round count, no description, crappy pictures via email, kinda poor comunications ect.. haha you know the drill. looks like it was an x duty gun, little bit of road rash on the grip, night sight rear, front in the box with a fiber optic replacement currently installed, few extras like a connector and striker spring, and glock extended slide stop... anyway i took everything apart, cleaned all the neglected parts, put the stock connector and firing pin spring back in. overall not disapointed in the deal itself, but more so in what im seeing as a failure of design. Have some pictures of the internals... everything shows minimal use or glocks finish durability lol...... except the frame looks like cabbage where the slide batters it.

Am i expecting too much? is it a waste of ammo/time training with this firearm? Should i acuire a second new or hopefully "like new" gen4 or maybe gen 5 unit for shtf and continue to put rounds through this one....

if anyone has some shots of the gen 5 units frame internals, maybe they have improved this long term reliability situation?

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Maybe I don't see what you mean - Are you talking about what looks like "peening" of the plastic in photos 3 and 4? I don't love it, but it doesn't look particularly worrisome to me. It may have been used extensively with heavy handloads, or the recoil spring might not have been replaced on schedule, or maybe neither of these things. It's a used handgun from a basically unknown source - I'd put a new RSA in, regardless.
 
My 30-year old G17 doesn't look like the slide has even touched that spot under load. Admittedly, it was never a service gun and probably hasn't seen more than a thousand rounds over its whole life, but it does suggest the design never intended that point to be a structural stop for the slide.

So my guess is alpining is correct about heavy loads or worn out springs. It certainly doesn't look sufficiently damaged to be a problem yet, so replace the recoil spring, run a normal diet, and it will probably not get any worse. I certainly wouldn't let it keep me from using or enjoying the gun. As much as Glocks can be enjoyable, at any rate.
 
It's true I probably should have bought new haha, but pointing out a design flaw or potential failure point isn't being fussy... like say a blemish or scratch. I am New to glock, but not to the world of stuff and things. Would be like me building an engine, and having the pistons slightly hit the cylinder head... yeah it's going to "work" but....

Seems to run good either way, put 200rds through it at the range this afternoon with some light handloads and various other reloads/factory rds I had from years ago.

Starting load data in the Lee book for win 231 barely trickles the shells out and produced only 750fps from 180 grain bullets. Wile staring load of hs6 from Hodgdon was around 870 and a more normal ejection pattern.

I have 9mm in the form of a cz shadow 1, other platform I owned was a sig226 in .40 I understand the appeal of the striker fired trigger vs double/single action. The light weight makes it quick in the hand and recoil is quite well managed. Accuracy for me is excellent, always has been with the glocks I have borrowed/rented.... even though the trigger is crud by any measurable means... it works.

what dealers are the go to for glock parts(like rsa)?.... I'm wondering if there is a built in buffer in the recoil rod design that collapses?? It's reaching coil bind on full compression so maybe its not actually supposed to comtact that area normally, half a turn more of spring and it most certainly wouldn't. I'll sorce a new recoil assembly and call it a day for this unit.
 
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...I have 9mm in the form of a cz shadow 1, other platform I owned was a sig226 in .40 I understand the appeal of the striker fired trigger i, the same from first shot. The light weight makes it quick in the hand and recoil is quite well managed, likely due to vigorous training of my right hand. Accuracy for me is excellent, always has been with the ones I have borrowed/rented.... even though the trigger is crud by any measurable means...

John Farnam:

7 Oct 09

Manual decocking:

In our Courses, we see many manually-decocking pistols, mostly SIGs, but H&Ks, Berettas, and S&Ws also. I own several but now carry them only for demonstration purposes.

Last weekend, during an Urban Rifle Course, I required students to rapidly transition from rifle, to pistol, then back to rifle. This required that pistols be draw quickly (one-handed in many cases), immediately fired several times at a close target, then re-holstered quickly so rifles could then be reloaded and fired immediately, all as the student is moving aggressively.

Several times, I was compelled to physically stop students from holstering cocked SIG/226s! Their response was, upon looking at the cocked pistol about to go into their holster, “Oh … Oops!… I almost forgot!” Like someone using the pistol for the first time!

However, for these students, the 226 was their “carry gun.”

Thus, who insist on carrying manually-decocking pistols need to practice with them extensively, so the foregoing doesn’t happen. Even then, we occasionally see it, even among ostensibly experienced shooters.

In my opinion, when your goal is to impress everyone with high scores, a manually-decocking pistol may be at least arguable.

When your goal is to emerge victorious from fights, with all the stresses therewith associated, you are better served with a self-decocking (DAO) pistol.

Hence, the current popularity of the SIG/P250, SIG/DAK, Glock, Kahr, SA/XD, S&W/M&P, H&K/LEM, Beretta PX4/C, et al, and the declining popularity of S&W’s, SIG’s, Beretta’s, and H&K’s line of manually-decocking pistols.

We, of course, can train students to correctly carry and operate any pistol, but I consider the addition of a manual decocking lever to be more an impediment than a benefit.

I know, full-well, there are die-hard proponents of manually-decocking pistols, many among my circle of friends. But, last weekend yielded yet another confirmation of the inherent defect in that system.

New shooters don’t need to be encumbered with it!

/John


<https://defense-training.com/october-2009-quips/>
 
...Seems to run good either way, ... what dealers are the go to for glock parts(like rsa)?....

Exactly - If you do a google search for "Glock Gen4 frame battering" and you'll find lots of reports of pistols running longer than you'll need with worse looking plastic than yours. I think there'd be issues if it gets so bad the plastic starts to fragment, but until then I'd just stick a new spring in there and forget about it.

Someone else here will have a good idea where to get a replacement RSA, I'm sure.
 
Sear movement is one thing - Firing pin movement is another!

Haha well I have converted one of my shadows to single action only via modding a tactical sport trigger. Allot of cocked and locked use has occurred with that one. The lack of a firing pin block makes take-up and reset adjustable to near zero. My other shadow I have fitted a shadow 2 disconector in it, for a greatly reduced take-up trigger wile retaining the double/single action.
 
I agree that it does really help the trigger pull - However, I think guys can get into trouble when fire control springs get too light - Then they need a light firing pin spring to solve the light primer strikes issue, then the pistol becomes even less drop safe than it was.
 
I agree that it does really help the trigger pull - However, I think guys can get into trouble when fire control springs get too light - Then they need a light firing pin spring to solve the light primer strikes issue, then the pistol becomes even less drop safe than it was.

Yeah I never had any interest in that.... I'm a fan of reliability first. both my shadows have all factory springs and will light off small rifle primer reloads/barnual ammo.
 
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