Bought used CZ 527 7.62 and stock started to crack...

deanyang said:
Both are mine. Traded my Mosin for another late production model.
Update pic is the one with the cracked stock. Older Model.
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Ok, I misunderstood, I can see now looking at the grain it's the same as the first picture you posted, the crack is hard to see.

Was the action a bit loose in the stock originally when you noticed the cracking?

Regardless, once it's bedded you should be good.
 
M1911 said:
My brand new, straight from the factory 527 has almost that much inletting at the tang. I think they purposely did it after all the complaints
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Yup I figured they learn from all the cracked stocks. The other one with 20### serial number has a large gap.
 
Hey man you came asking for help and asked what bedding is, forgive me for questioning why you are filing down your stock for no reason.

I’m only asking because you may be causing more potential cracking by removing stuff from the inletting, sorry if you take a statement of fact as sarcasm. Now that it is no longer “close to the metal” where do you think the force will go under recoil?

If you bed the stock why relieve the tang? Why file off pieces of the action inlet besides that at all? Judging by your threads (where you previously thanked me for my advice btw) you aren’t super familiar with guns. There’s nothing wrong with this at all and me and most members (most of whom are far more experienced than me) are happy to answer questions. I just think it’s a bit silly to change your mind about going to a gunsmith and start filing down parts of the stock at random
 
conor_90 said:
Hey man you came asking for help and asked what bedding is, forgive me for questioning why you are filing down your stock for no reason.

I’m only asking because you may be causing more potential cracking by removing stuff from the inletting, sorry if you take a statement of fact as sarcasm. Now that it is no longer “close to the metal” where do you think the force will go under recoil?

If you bed the stock why relieve the tang? Why file off pieces of the action inlet besides that at all? Judging by your threads (where you previously thanked me for my advice btw) you aren’t super familiar with guns. There’s nothing wrong with this at all and me and most members (most of whom are far more experienced than me) are happy to answer questions. I just think it’s a bit silly to change your mind about going to a gunsmith and start filing down parts of the stock at random
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Thanks for the detailed explanation. I prefer to work on it and learn, instead of taking it to a GS . Yes I am bedding the rifle so I hope the recoil can mostly stay at the front recoil lug area not pushing the tang to the stock. I relieve the tang cos I saw the latest model did that I dont want to take any chances even with the bedding. If you think what I did was wrong, let me know I will listen.
The older model of CZ 527 has crack stock for a reason, the new model they have large space in the tang and they have some kind of 'bedding' in the recoil lug.
 
Can-down said:
Ok, I misunderstood, I can see now looking at the grain it's the same as the first picture you posted, the crack is hard to see.

Was the action a bit loose in the stock originally when you noticed the cracking?

Regardless, once it's bedded you should be good.
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The older rifle, action is not loose but I could be wrong, after 50rds I noticed the stock crack.
Just beded it with JB weld. Lets see how it goes!
Thanks
 
I think it has more to do with action screws reacting to the stock dimensions changing slightly due to changes in humidity and the stock being designed for lower recoil cartridges than a lack of tang gap.

My understanding is that the plastic recoil lug and enlarged tang gap are a quick fix for this issue which also occurs in other slim stocked Mauser style designs.
 
conor_90 said:
I think it has more to do with action screws reacting to the stock dimensions changing slightly due to changes in humidity and the stock being designed for lower recoil cartridges than a lack of tang gap.

My understanding is that the plastic recoil lug and enlarged tang gap are a quick fix for this issue which also occurs in other slim stocked Mauser style designs.
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So what I did, bedding the front and enlarge the tang gap, should work?
What is a more 'proper' fix to this issue?
Sorry for misunderstood your reply. Thanks again.
 
deanyang said:
So what I did, bedding the front and enlarge the tang gap, should work?
What is a more 'proper' fix to this issue?
Sorry for misunderstood your reply. Thanks again.
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You got the right idea, I'm assuming you are just skim bedding the lug area, not removing any wood, just applying a thin coat of JB?
With these 527's you don't want to bed the sides/front of the lug or receiver, just behind the lug and under the flat of the receiver.
A pillar in the rear action screw hole is also not a bad idea to help prevent cracks. Every real Mauser has this, not sure why they skipped it on these mini mausers.
 
I think what you did is fine, I just don’t know if relieving more of the tang gap is strictly necessary if you are bedding the front recoil lug.

I have my cz bedded in the rear and around the lug as hitzy described
 
Hitzy said:
You got the right idea, I'm assuming you are just skim bedding the lug area, not removing any wood, just applying a thin coat of JB?
With these 527's you don't want to bed the sides/front of the lug or receiver, just behind the lug and under the flat of the receiver.
A pillar in the rear action screw hole is also not a bad idea to help prevent cracks. Every real Mauser has this, not sure why they skipped it on these mini mausers.
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yup just make the area rough enough to stick, I was going for this:
a60f4f89408b6902d33cd34e343d632b_zps62bdf1c1.jpg

so should be like described just behind the lug and under the flat of the receiver.
Also my older model does come with a 'pillar' of some kind, it is a metal tube in side the rear screw hole holding the screw, yet still cracked...
 
conor_90 said:
I think what you did is fine, I just don’t know if relieving more of the tang gap is strictly necessary if you are bedding the front recoil lug.

I have my cz bedded in the rear and around the lug as hitzy described
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OK I was doing the same thing. Thanks
 
Relieving the tang helps preventing stock cracks. That's a recommendation from operators manual for Mosin Nagants, for instance. That's why CZ started doing that for newer models
 
As far as I understand a crack at the tang is a result of bedding failure/compression at the front recoil lug or stock warping due to humidity/temp etc. Recoil should not be transferred through the tang or it will start to split the wood. A super snug wood to metal fit makes it more likely.

In my new production 527 both the front and rear action screws have metal pillars, there is a plastic (?) insert at the rear of the recoil lug, and the tang is generously relieved as seen in the photos above. It seems for a new production 527 just bedding the recoil lug is enough and probably not even necessary. For an older production one like OPs it seems pillar, glass bedding, and tang relief is the right move. Just my $0.02
 
Are the butts on those guns unfinished, like they are on most guns? It is one of the reasons I have stripped and refinished almost all my firearms.
 
I also put a tiny drop of blue loctite on the action screws in any gun that could cause cracking if they loosen up under shooting. Not many, but the 527 screws get the treatment. Just the tiniest amount so they hold snug but still come off with a screwdriver easily enough.
 
Hitzy said:
I also put a tiny drop of blue loctite on the action screws in any gun that could cause cracking if they loosen up under shooting. Not many, but the 527 screws get the treatment. Just the tiniest amount so they hold snug but still come off with a screwdriver easily enough.
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I do have the locitite as well, will do the same. What is double tap?
 
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