well i did it, i bout a Lee lock challenger press kit...all i need is powder, primers, and lead...and read the book i would guess...i have my brass that i'v already shot but not sure how to clean it, or if its really necessary...any guidance for a first timer, I'm not going for precision yet i just want to be able to do a basic reload at the moment.
bout my first reloading kit...whats next
- Thread starter FromTheNorth
- Start date
I am in the same boat as you. Just picked up a press recently. Looking forward to getting it setup!
I hear the thing to do first is read through a manual (or two) and get a handle on what to do and what NOT to do so that is what I am doing now.
I hear the thing to do first is read through a manual (or two) and get a handle on what to do and what NOT to do so that is what I am doing now.
I was at the same point as you guys 2 weeks ago, i'm gonna add a list of thing that i bought that the kit didn't have and i needed. (Which might differ with your needs)
First off
-1-2 reloading manuals (i chose Sierra and LEE MANUAL OF MODERN RELOADING 2ND EDITION)
-Case trimmer (i bought 2 one lyman and the adapters for the lee)
-Reloading tray
-Case tumbler + Media
-Electronic scale
-Extra Quick change bushings
-Dies for your caliber
-Bullet puller
-Powder Trickler
-Flash hole debur tool
-Bullet comparator
i bought an electronic scale since i didn't like the other one and found it easier, 2 case trimmers incase one ever broke.
Hope this helps
First off
-1-2 reloading manuals (i chose Sierra and LEE MANUAL OF MODERN RELOADING 2ND EDITION)
-Case trimmer (i bought 2 one lyman and the adapters for the lee)
-Reloading tray
-Case tumbler + Media
-Electronic scale
-Extra Quick change bushings
-Dies for your caliber
-Bullet puller
-Powder Trickler
-Flash hole debur tool
-Bullet comparator
i bought an electronic scale since i didn't like the other one and found it easier, 2 case trimmers incase one ever broke.
Hope this helps
You answered your own question.... Read the book that came with it...
As far as cleaning bass...
I have a phobia of small rocks getting shot down my barrel so I try to get them as good as I can. Dish soap and water works very well. A bit of vinegar might help to take some tarnish off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT1fl9ep_U8
Just make sure you rinse and dry well to get the vinegar off and all that. If you're handy you could probably gear up a vibrating polisher. There's a few videos on you tube of this too.
I have a phobia of small rocks getting shot down my barrel so I try to get them as good as I can. Dish soap and water works very well. A bit of vinegar might help to take some tarnish off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lT1fl9ep_U8
Just make sure you rinse and dry well to get the vinegar off and all that. If you're handy you could probably gear up a vibrating polisher. There's a few videos on you tube of this too.
When I first got into reloading I bought both set's of LEE shellholder's. One for the priming tool and the other for reloading press's.Some I've never used, but it's nice to have them,just in case.
And I've noticed that my LEE scale settle's down a lot quicker then it used too,but it's been 30+ year's. Look on Youtube for a guy that show's a couple handy hint's with them
And I've noticed that my LEE scale settle's down a lot quicker then it used too,but it's been 30+ year's. Look on Youtube for a guy that show's a couple handy hint's with them
I like the lee scale for measuring powder, I only use my electronic scale to sort bullets and brass.
Cleaning is pretty straightforward, a few drops of dish soap and some warm water is all I use. Get a bottle brush or if you have an sks, the cleaning brush that comes with it works pretty good. The main thing you need when starting out with the lee challenger kit IMO is a vernier caliper and lots if books. You will also need a comparator and a way to figure out your throat length if you plan on loading longer than max coal. After you spend a bit of time researching the type or bullets and powder you want to use, stick with it for a good while so you can see how every little change you make affects your performance and accuracy. Don't mix brass types and measure case capacity. There's waaaay more to it than I mentioned here... Research and quality info is key!
Cleaning is pretty straightforward, a few drops of dish soap and some warm water is all I use. Get a bottle brush or if you have an sks, the cleaning brush that comes with it works pretty good. The main thing you need when starting out with the lee challenger kit IMO is a vernier caliper and lots if books. You will also need a comparator and a way to figure out your throat length if you plan on loading longer than max coal. After you spend a bit of time researching the type or bullets and powder you want to use, stick with it for a good while so you can see how every little change you make affects your performance and accuracy. Don't mix brass types and measure case capacity. There's waaaay more to it than I mentioned here... Research and quality info is key!
You won't need to worry a great deal about comparators or throat length or case capacity to load basic ammo... You also won't need to sort bullets or stress over mixing different kinds of brass... You do need a way of measuring the overall length of your finished cartridges, and make sure you are following published load data. It is not complicated to make safe, accurate ammunition.
Good point, I should have made that more clear I guess?
If you can find someone who can mentor you that would be a good thing. Its a lot faster and you will make less mistakes under the guidance of an experienced reloader.
I sort my brass by once fired, twice fired, 3xfired and so on. When I reload I grab a bag out of my bin inspect it prep it load it and enjoy. I document every lot and throw a tag in the bag and I'm getting a feeling for what brass likes what. I can go back in my book and track the brass and loads. Sounds complicated but its easy.
You will be tempted to crank out a few rounds and test them out. Don't do that. Read, read, and read some more. comprehend what you are reading and follow up what you read with youtube videos. Once you fully understand what is involved, you will be able to make wise reloading decisions.
The first and most important lesson to learn, is that all loads in a manual, or on a loading site, are not safe in all firearms. Read up on how to identify pressure signs, and then begin with a starting load, and work up gradually while watching for pressure signs. Some people get themselves into trouble because they have no clue, and they start out with a maximum load from a manual. I have seen people beating bolts open, as a result.
Do not mix cases of different manufacturers because a load that might be safe in one case, may cause excessive pressure in a different case. Do not substitute components, unless you reduce the powder charge slightly, and work up the load again.
Do not mix cases of different manufacturers because a load that might be safe in one case, may cause excessive pressure in a different case. Do not substitute components, unless you reduce the powder charge slightly, and work up the load again.
FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
In addition to the above suggestions - which are excellent by the way, I would suggest picking up the following items:
- Case gauges for each calibre you will be reloading. These gauges simulate the chamber of the firearm and allow you to quickly test a resized case for length and fit before charging and bullet seating, plus a final check afterward. I have spotted a couple of reloading errors with mine. I use Sheridan Engineeing slotted gauges for .223 and .308 and Wilson gauges for other calibres. Typically cost $40-$60 each.
- Digital micrometer caliper set (as cheap as $10-$15 on sale) to measure overall case length, etc.
- A systematic way of recording your loads and other stats about each batch of ammo made. I use a spreadsheet and print tags for the finished ammo boxes
- A cautious approach and safety orientation. Understand the riskier steps, including priming (wear safety glasses and never force a primer that doesn't want to seat - you may need to clean or uniform the primer pockets) and risks of double charging some loads such as 9mm, plus pressure signs. Start a minimum of 10 percent below published max loads and always use load data from a published source such as a load data book.
It's very rewarding when everything comes together and a round that you made and shot goes where you wanted, followed by several others to form a tight group. You'll never buy factory ammo again except to plink with.
Good luck and ask questions here often, and find a local mentor.
Regards,
Peter
- Case gauges for each calibre you will be reloading. These gauges simulate the chamber of the firearm and allow you to quickly test a resized case for length and fit before charging and bullet seating, plus a final check afterward. I have spotted a couple of reloading errors with mine. I use Sheridan Engineeing slotted gauges for .223 and .308 and Wilson gauges for other calibres. Typically cost $40-$60 each.
- Digital micrometer caliper set (as cheap as $10-$15 on sale) to measure overall case length, etc.
- A systematic way of recording your loads and other stats about each batch of ammo made. I use a spreadsheet and print tags for the finished ammo boxes
- A cautious approach and safety orientation. Understand the riskier steps, including priming (wear safety glasses and never force a primer that doesn't want to seat - you may need to clean or uniform the primer pockets) and risks of double charging some loads such as 9mm, plus pressure signs. Start a minimum of 10 percent below published max loads and always use load data from a published source such as a load data book.
It's very rewarding when everything comes together and a round that you made and shot goes where you wanted, followed by several others to form a tight group. You'll never buy factory ammo again except to plink with.
Good luck and ask questions here often, and find a local mentor.
Regards,
Peter
Thank you so much every one for all the great info, it was so hard for me to ask questions about this kind of stuff to others because i don't know any one who does this...everything i do around firearms i take very seriously and reloading is something new to me and like all of you have said, take my time and read, read, and do some reading...and hopefully i can find some one to mentor under because there is nothing better than learning from experience. Happy shooting!
FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
Keep asking questions...there is no such thing as a stupid question!
OP - What calibre are you going to handload for first? There are some differences, especially between loading for straight-walled (mainly pistol) calibres and bottlenecked rifle calibres.
OP - What calibre are you going to handload for first? There are some differences, especially between loading for straight-walled (mainly pistol) calibres and bottlenecked rifle calibres.
FirearmsEnthusiast
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Kingston, ON
One link that I really like that shows all of the major reloading steps is this one:
http://www.rcbs.com/guide/step_by_step_reloading.aspx#
It's a good general overview of the steps and although it uses RCBS equipment the steps are the same for your Lee kit as well in general.
http://www.rcbs.com/guide/step_by_step_reloading.aspx#
It's a good general overview of the steps and although it uses RCBS equipment the steps are the same for your Lee kit as well in general.
- Location
- West Quebec
After awhile you may consider stainless steel tumbling.. amazing results for brass
