Boyds replacement Garand stocks
- Thread starter lorne19
- Start date
I have several Boyd's stocks both finished and unfinished.
The finished and unfinished stock kits are mostly ready to go, with very little fitting required.
I personally prefer the unfinished examples as you can fit the stock to the butt plate, and choose the color.
The finished and unfinished stock kits are mostly ready to go, with very little fitting required.
I personally prefer the unfinished examples as you can fit the stock to the butt plate, and choose the color.
- Location
- Virden, MB
Boyds won't export the finished stocks unless you have an export permit as they are just over the $100 limit.
Boyd's quality is very, very good btw. The unfinished do require a lot of sanding and are neither are 100% fit, they require a bit of filing here and there.
Boyd's quality is very, very good btw. The unfinished do require a lot of sanding and are neither are 100% fit, they require a bit of filing here and there.
If you are thinking of replacing the stock on the Garand in your post below, your existing stock looks pretty good to me. All of stocks on these ex-desert Garands that I have were loose fitting because of wood shrinkage in dry conditions.
A loose fitting stock won't shoot worth $hit and will eventually split. The fixes are:
1. To eliminate fore/aft play of the barreled action in the stock, glue shims on the vertical surfaces which bear against the rear legs of the receiver.
2. To tighten vertical "draw" so that resistance is encountered when the rear of the trigger guard closes to the vicinity of the trigger, glue shims on the bottom of the stock on both of the surfaces that bear against the forward plate of the trigger housing. The draw must be such that the trigger guard closes with significant resistance. Some target shooters re-bed to a point where you need to close the guard with a rubber hammer or a hunk of 2x4-a bit of overkill there. A related issue here which causes light vertical draw is excessive wear on the 2 round locking lugs of the trigger guard. If this is the case and shims don't solve the problem, look for a new guard with full round lugs. BTW a bit of grease on the lugs helps avoid excessive wear. When the trigger guard is locked up the rear "horseshoe" of the receiver should bear evenly on the top surface of the stock and you should be able to see a bit of clearance between the bottom of the receiver and top of the stock beginning about .5 in behind the rear sight.
A few related concerns on stock fit:
-there should be some clearance (at least the width of a business card) between the rear of the rear handguard and the face of the receiver
-there should be some clearance between the metal ferrule on the face of the front handguard and the rear of the gas cylinder when the gas cyl screw is tight
-there should be clearance between the upper surface of the stock and the bottom edges of the rear handguard.
A loose fitting stock won't shoot worth $hit and will eventually split. The fixes are:
1. To eliminate fore/aft play of the barreled action in the stock, glue shims on the vertical surfaces which bear against the rear legs of the receiver.
2. To tighten vertical "draw" so that resistance is encountered when the rear of the trigger guard closes to the vicinity of the trigger, glue shims on the bottom of the stock on both of the surfaces that bear against the forward plate of the trigger housing. The draw must be such that the trigger guard closes with significant resistance. Some target shooters re-bed to a point where you need to close the guard with a rubber hammer or a hunk of 2x4-a bit of overkill there. A related issue here which causes light vertical draw is excessive wear on the 2 round locking lugs of the trigger guard. If this is the case and shims don't solve the problem, look for a new guard with full round lugs. BTW a bit of grease on the lugs helps avoid excessive wear. When the trigger guard is locked up the rear "horseshoe" of the receiver should bear evenly on the top surface of the stock and you should be able to see a bit of clearance between the bottom of the receiver and top of the stock beginning about .5 in behind the rear sight.
A few related concerns on stock fit:
-there should be some clearance (at least the width of a business card) between the rear of the rear handguard and the face of the receiver
-there should be some clearance between the metal ferrule on the face of the front handguard and the rear of the gas cylinder when the gas cyl screw is tight
-there should be clearance between the upper surface of the stock and the bottom edges of the rear handguard.
Actually my stock and hand guards are in nice shape and all fit fairly well. My only concern is that the hand guards are walnut and the stock seems to be beach with some sort of stain on it. I'm fairly sure that the stock isn't original GI and I know the hand guards were changed. I was just toying with the idea or buying a matching stock set for appearances only.
It is very important, than when the handguard is closed and locked, that there is some room for the locking mechanisme, as there is in the original Garand stock, which have a resess cut, in order to give some room for the trigger guard locking mechanisme.
For example, the "Ramline" stock, made of some plastic material, does not have that extra space for the handguard locking mechanisme, and a hole has to be drilled in the bedding of the stock, in order to give the "hook" some room, and thus avoid exessive, downward pressure, that during some of my shooting with the "Ramline" stocked Garand, releived the locking hook/spring, and to my horror, the whole trigger mechanisme ended up on the ground.
After carefull examination, I also found that the trigger guard/spring itself, has over the last half a century, losened up and become slacked, and few gentle pounding with a rubber mallet at the end of the trigger guard/spring, tighten the handguard/spring back to a much firmer grip
Also, I would strongly recommend to change the firing pin, if you have any plans to use your Garand for hunting, to ensure reliable use in the field. I also learned that the hard way
For example, the "Ramline" stock, made of some plastic material, does not have that extra space for the handguard locking mechanisme, and a hole has to be drilled in the bedding of the stock, in order to give the "hook" some room, and thus avoid exessive, downward pressure, that during some of my shooting with the "Ramline" stocked Garand, releived the locking hook/spring, and to my horror, the whole trigger mechanisme ended up on the ground.
After carefull examination, I also found that the trigger guard/spring itself, has over the last half a century, losened up and become slacked, and few gentle pounding with a rubber mallet at the end of the trigger guard/spring, tighten the handguard/spring back to a much firmer grip
Also, I would strongly recommend to change the firing pin, if you have any plans to use your Garand for hunting, to ensure reliable use in the field. I also learned that the hard way
From looking at the pics in your other post this is a late style walnut replacement stock. It is a lower grade of walnut, which mimics birch in appearance, but is a solid and servicable stock. If you can get hold of a set of US GI birch handguards,you can strip and stain them to match. Fiebings medium brown leather dye,which is alcohol based, will produce a nice matching reddish color on birch. An alcohol based stain is best on military stocks as it will penetrate thru the residual oils in the wood. I see the US GI birch guards on ebay from time to time.
