Boyd's stock -- where to send to refinish?

Do it yourself! Sand it down and re-coat with Truoil gunstock finish. I did it (7 coats for a high luster) using finer grit every time. Turned out beautiful. Just be sure not to apply too much at once, or you will get runs in the finish. I applied the Truoil with my fingers, just rubbed it in with two fingers using light pressure. Let it cure overnight before resanding and next coat.
 
As Warden70 has said. Do it yourself with Truoil. Very easy project to do. The key is allowing time to dry and thin coats.
 
I'd be cautious about using chemical strippers around glued-together wood.

Sanding is the only move.

If you're OK spending $200 on the project, maybe call Boyds and get a new stock?
 
OK OK... I just bought $15 worth of sanding blocks from Crappy Tire (3 course, 3 medium, 3 fine) and I'll go to town on the stock taking care not to overly smooth the corners, etc.
I'll use Tung oil (Circa 1850), again. I'll also try filling some of the pores by using a slurry of oil and wood dust. This should be fun.
 
Preparation is important. Patience is even more important:yingyang: The best advice I can offer is don't be in a hurry to finish it. Take your time; go slow; clean the surface well and re-coat with light coats. More light coats is much better than less heavy coats.
Calling the kettle black, I am NOT a patient person by nature and screwed up my share of refinishing jobs. Getting older and learning the value of taking my time. Kind of therapeutic actually:cool:

Good luck!
 
Thanks guys... I will use your advice. I have a tack rag (sort of).

4 hours of meticulous sanding (just finished) revealed a nice smooth, even surface. I just applied one light coat of Tung oil and it's sitting in front of my heat vent drying. It will dry to a dull sheen, as it's "low lustre" Circa 1850 Tung oil.

It's funny, as I refinished two SKS stocks with great success, but I can't seem to get this biatch to work for me. I will likely give it two or three more thin coats and call it a day.

If it works out, great. If not, I have a local nutter that has offered to rescue me for the cost of a case of beer. Faith in humanity restored. :)
 
Superbrad said:
You are missing only one thing, a tack rag..... Fyi, a tack rag is used to clean off the stock after basic sanding.... Really helps avoid fisheye in the finish.....
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A tack rag is actually used for removing dust from stock before applying another coat. It is basically a piece of cheesecloth with a waxy substance that makes the dust stick to it, hence removing it from the stock.

Just to be picky...
 
I picked up 6 tack rags and a bag of 0000 steel wool from Crappy Tire yesterday. I passed on their Minwax brand of Tung oil, as the ingredients indicated a blend of linseed and tung oils in that order (and mineral spirits of course). Getting low on tung oil, but I don't want a blend. Put my second coat of tung on yesterday, and I will buff it with steel wool and add a third coat this evening. By the weekend, I hope to see some positive results.
 
The Kurgan said:
4 hours of meticulous sanding (just finished) revealed a nice smooth, even surface. I just applied one light coat of Tung oil and it's sitting in front of my heat vent drying. It will dry to a dull sheen, as it's "low lustre" Circa 1850 Tung oil.
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The heating will not be of much benefit. You are rushing your project as pure tung oil cures by oxidation. (never truly dries). Apply sparingly, a little goes a long way. Rub in with your fingers and then let sit for 30 minutes. Wipe off all excess oil that does not absorb into the wood. Now for the waiting game. Let the oil set/cure overnight(room temperature). A quick sanding with 320 sand paper between coats is good. (0000 steel wool is more for polishing) Apply another coat of tung oil again by hand. Wipe off after 30 minutes (again) As the tung oil is progressively creeping through the wood, this coat will take longer to set/cure/oxidize. You will find that it might take another day to be ready for the next coat. Every coat will be the same afterwards. My first Boyds Garand stock set took weeks to get finished. The benefit of tung oil is that you can apply as a monthly or yearly treatment as both a cleaner and preservative. These are my first attempts at finishing. The top one has in excess of 14 coats now, the bottom one was done with boiled linseed oil. I prefer the tung oil as it does not layer up as more coats are added. Easy to clean up as well as I use citrus solvent to wash up with. ( for a quicker start,I thin the first coat 50/50 with citrus solvent as a 'primer')
 
The Kurgan said:
Thanks guys... I will use your advice. I have a tack rag (sort of).

4 hours of meticulous sanding (just finished) revealed a nice smooth, even surface. I just applied one light coat of Tung oil and it's sitting in front of my heat vent drying. It will dry to a dull sheen, as it's "low lustre" Circa 1850 Tung oil.

It's funny, as I refinished two SKS stocks with great success, but I can't seem to get this biatch to work for me. I will likely give it two or three more thin coats and call it a day.

If it works out, great. If not, I have a local nutter that has offered to rescue me for the cost of a case of beer. Faith in humanity restored. :)
Click to expand...

Straight wood would give great looks right off the bat in this case I'm thinking there'll be differences where the wood will soak it up and the glue between the laminates where it won't want to stick? Following this with interest as I've got a Boyds laminate that I'm going to have to sand to open up the barrel channel for a magnum profile barrel. I've been wondering what to do to seal up the sanded area when I'm done.
 
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