Boys Anti Tank Gun Bolt Repair

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agentcq

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I have discussed this rifle a few times, but I finally found an original .55 barrel, so this project rifle is close to breathing fire once again.

The only problem now is the bolt. The bolt face was ground, so I need a new bolt, new bolt body or maybe I can repair the bolt.

One gun smith told me that a good welder could rebuild the front the bolt face. The second option was to cut the damaged bolt face off, tap the bolt body, manufacture a new bolt face and thread on the new bolt face. These two options sound easy enough, but does anyone know a capable gunsmith who could complete these modifications?

Any help would be great.

Cheers
 
id try to find a new bolt

i hope you dont shoot any old .55 boys ammo brass can be made from .50 bmg(needs to be fire formed and neck sized only after that),bullets can be had(the soild brass ones here need to be turned down by .003" ) for a few bucks a piece,i have load data
 
I knew a welder who could have done this job in his sleep, but he is gone now.

Stick the Bolt into a briefcase and head down to your local Airport. Near it there will be places which repair airplanes. If you were in Winnipeg, I would say to go to Bristol Aerospace or Standard Aircraft Repair; either of them can do it.

Or, if you are where there is a lot of oilfield work, head for a shop which does specialised oilfield welding.

While the bolt-face is being built-up, the LOCKING LUGS will need to be protected from heat damage...... but they will know that...... or they should. Let them know that the thing will regularly be handling thrust on those lugs which is generated by 60,000psi of pressure on the whole bolt-face. That will give them an idea or two.
 
A lot would depend on how much grinding was done. Could you post a photo?
This would determine whether replacement, a mechanical or welding repair would be best.
Given that the locking lugs are right behind the boltface, welding would have to be very, very well done to avoid altering the heat treatment of the lugs. I suppose a first class TIG welder using heat control paste could do the job. Jason, at Gunco in Nepean, uses a really good TIG welder.
 
CanadianAR said:
Im pretty sure hes been looking for a bolt for a bit. No luck with all your ads agentcq?
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and im sure ive been looking for a boys for a long time i doubt the will find a bolt here the US,UK,AUS may be a better place to look i know there is still a few parts kit fo them down south (have to remove the .55 barrel and put a .50) and there should be alot of parts in the UK and AUS they are still legal in boh places
 
Thanks for the help. I will post some pics tommorow, they are not great. Finding parts for this rifle has not been easy. Some parts are very common, but the parts I need seem to be the hard ones to find.

I plan on converting 50 bmg ammo, original rounds are collector pieces and I wouldn't ruin them by firing them. The other thought is since I have an original barrel, that I could keep it as a spare and have Doug at Epps make me a 50 bmg barrel for shooting. That option would save me some hassel and with both barrels would increase the value of the rifle.
 
All I can say is Damn You Agentcq !!You beat me by a couple of hours and I hope you enjoy the Johnson too.All in fun,Enjoy and someday if I am lucky we can meet at the range.
 
agentcq said:
Thanks for the help. I will post some pics tommorow, they are not great. Finding parts for this rifle has not been easy. Some parts are very common, but the parts I need seem to be the hard ones to find.

I plan on converting 50 bmg ammo, original rounds are collector pieces and I wouldn't ruin them by firing them. The other thought is since I have an original barrel, that I could keep it as a spare and have Doug at Epps make me a 50 bmg barrel for shooting. That option would save me some hassel and with both barrels would increase the value of the rifle.
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if you want load data for the .55 round i got it i'll tell you right now though you need a full length die and a neck sizing die and can only single feed it till the rounds are fire formed
 
Pics finally - I know the extractor and ejector are FUBAR, but I can find those parts:

BoysBoltFace1.jpg


BoysBoltFace2.jpg
 
mr.e moose said:
All I can say is Damn You Agentcq !!You beat me by a couple of hours and I hope you enjoy the Johnson too.All in fun,Enjoy and someday if I am lucky we can meet at the range.
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Ha! I've been beat on items too, it is the rarer guns that make you sad. I got a phone call from Gordon at Milarm and he saw a lovely Trench Gun which he has secured for me, he says I will never find another example. I can't wait to see it (will post picss)...too bad work keeps me away so often.
 
If it were my project.....
First choice: New bolt.
Second choice: Turn the face flat. Drill out the firing pin hole. Cut fine threads. Make a new boltface with a threaded shank. Screw into bolt. Set with permanent threadlocker. Drill firing pin hole. Face to adjust headspace.
Load in firing is linear. A new boltface would be under a compression load; there shouldn't be a safety issue.
 
i think marstar has the extractor and ejector(they also have a head space gauge) but that bolt face is done why someone did that is beyond me

id do what tiriaq says just make sure you make the thread tight tolerance with not much play
 
I'd repair the bolt especially if it is numbered to the rifle. A new bolt, if one could be found, would need fitted. IMO and experience repair procedures exist for such work. It would be worth exploring with any shop the does die repairs. These are always brought back to originally surface specifications by welding, machining and polishing. You have nothing to lose by going to a skilled professional. It going to cost a few $'s however you have a very unique rifle. Ron
 
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