Brand new to reloading. going to be loading a 6.5x55 swede
- Thread starter jogforfun
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47gr-Re#22 /140gr Partition ,win brass /Fed or CCI mag primer this is my load for a T3 so start 2 gr under and work it up watching for pressure signs. Use at own risk obviously.Many dead deer,elk,moose and black bear with this load.May be too warm for the older 96 military mausers. IMR 4350 is the second powder of choice.................Harold
This is real good advice, right here. This load, or one extremely close to it, has been my go-to load in the 6.5x55 for many years.
I use 47/48 grains of Norma MRP, but it is so close to RL22 that data is almost interchangeable. Always start 2-3 grains below and
work up. I have shot 3 moose, many deer and an elk with this load, and none went 50 yards after the shot. D.
Lots of recent threads in this section from new reloaders asking the same "where to start" questions. Iraqiveteran8888 has a great intro to reloading video that is very thorough and goes over a lot of equipment and information. Worth a watch for sure.
Lapua Mega 155(see sticky on bullet test) is the equal of Partition for considerably less - Lots of fine powders with VV as good or superior to any and Lapua brass is tops.
Excuse the self-serving comment but at least it's fact! For top performers read comparison.
Regards,
Peter
Excuse the self-serving comment but at least it's fact! For top performers read comparison.
Regards,
Peter
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Buy reloading manuals like the Lyman manual and "read" the front part of the manual on the basics of reloading.
NOTE, I have been reloading for over 47 years and every year I try to pick up one of my manuals and re-read the front part of the manual. This replaces any information that may have leaked out of my ears and been forgotten and lost in my gray matter.
You can also Google reloading the 6.5x55 and get good information. The most important thing is to keep reading about reloading methods and keep learning about the subject.
Just remember to start low and look at each fired case and "read" the primers. You will see the primers protruding from the rear of the case as you start the work up load. This means the chamber pressure is not great enough to push the case against the bolt face. After the primers become flush with the base of the case you will see the rounded edges of the primer decreasing and the primer start to flatten.
Because there are so many variations in firearms and reloading components all reloading data is just a "guideline" and ball park information.
So again start at the suggested starting load and work up and study the primers and cases for signs of excess pressure. And by doing this you will learn more about "your"rifle and the components you are using. And never just pick a load at random from a manual and hope it will be safe to shoot.
You didn't mention a time frame, but this can be a time consuming process. Amassing all the bits you need to reload, then developing a load that shoots well in your rifle is quite the task in a short time.
The trouble with used gear is that what you want/need may not be for sale when you want it. I'd suggest you look at buying a kit, then filling in the missing pieces.
Plan on spending $700-$1k if you're buying everything new, it can be done for less but IMO you're cutting corners you may wish you hadn't later.
I have a mixture of brands depending on what I liked or disliked about each particular item. Each individual will have their personal preference.
I bought a mixture of new and used, plus I made a few items where possible. Metallic reloading isn't rocket science if I can do it successfully.
I'd suggest finding a local mentor you trust to walk you through the process hands-on, it'll clarify at least some things. A couple of good reloading manuals should be the first thing you buy. They'll explain the basics, the refinements will come with time.
You need, at a bare minimum: press, dies, case trimmer, deburring tools, dial or digital caliper, case lube, case brush, powder funnel, primer pocket brush, trickler, and scale.
I didn't mention a priming tool or a powder measure, or a tumbler for cleaning cases. I prime on the press, rough measure powder with the Lee powder dippers and top up by trickling, and hand clean cases with steel wool or fine ScotchBrite and brass polish.
Add ons are case gauges, primer pocket uniformer and flash hole deburring tool, chronograph, bullet puller, the list is endless.
Once you have all the bits and pieces, reloading is a rewarding hobby, plus you can produce better ammo than you can buy, that's custom tailored to your rifle.
The trouble with used gear is that what you want/need may not be for sale when you want it. I'd suggest you look at buying a kit, then filling in the missing pieces.
Plan on spending $700-$1k if you're buying everything new, it can be done for less but IMO you're cutting corners you may wish you hadn't later.
I have a mixture of brands depending on what I liked or disliked about each particular item. Each individual will have their personal preference.
I bought a mixture of new and used, plus I made a few items where possible. Metallic reloading isn't rocket science if I can do it successfully.
I'd suggest finding a local mentor you trust to walk you through the process hands-on, it'll clarify at least some things. A couple of good reloading manuals should be the first thing you buy. They'll explain the basics, the refinements will come with time.
You need, at a bare minimum: press, dies, case trimmer, deburring tools, dial or digital caliper, case lube, case brush, powder funnel, primer pocket brush, trickler, and scale.
I didn't mention a priming tool or a powder measure, or a tumbler for cleaning cases. I prime on the press, rough measure powder with the Lee powder dippers and top up by trickling, and hand clean cases with steel wool or fine ScotchBrite and brass polish.
Add ons are case gauges, primer pocket uniformer and flash hole deburring tool, chronograph, bullet puller, the list is endless.
Once you have all the bits and pieces, reloading is a rewarding hobby, plus you can produce better ammo than you can buy, that's custom tailored to your rifle.
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I would suggest you start with something you can break. Like .223 Remington. It takes the pressure off.
Or start with something you can't break. Like a rockchucker. it's a single stage press.
basic stuff: press, dies, scale, and parts.
shell holder to hold the brass in the press.
tumbler/vibrator to clean the brass.
eventually brass trimmer... first few reload.... the brass is not likely to need trimming.
I like RCBS for their solid press and warranty. Lee is good that it's a package. Most of their die sets comes with shell holder and powder dipper.
read up on this stuff. There is a lot of good resources that are easily found online. There is lots of very solid reloading book.
Or start with something you can't break. Like a rockchucker. it's a single stage press.
basic stuff: press, dies, scale, and parts.
shell holder to hold the brass in the press.
tumbler/vibrator to clean the brass.
eventually brass trimmer... first few reload.... the brass is not likely to need trimming.
I like RCBS for their solid press and warranty. Lee is good that it's a package. Most of their die sets comes with shell holder and powder dipper.
read up on this stuff. There is a lot of good resources that are easily found online. There is lots of very solid reloading book.
^^^ Calipers. The tumbler/vibrator isn't necessary. A good scale is. Press, dies, shell holder. You can do without a powder measure, but you'll want one eventually.
The first thing you should buy is a good manual or three.
The first thing you should buy is a good manual or three.
1873shootist
Regular
Buy something like a Lee Classic Cast Iron press (The one with the removable screw-in bushing for large diameter dies, not the quick-change die gimmick one).
Buy:
- a couple of good new reloading manuals.
- a set of dies and a shell holder from RCBS.
- a good beam balance scale from Lyman or RCBS.
- A good powder measure from RCBS, Hornaday, Lyman.
- a simple Lee Precision hand-held case trimmer (inexpensive).
- Lee Precision primer pocket cleaning tool.
- RCBS hand-held case chamfer tool.
- plastic powder funnel.
- case lube pad, case lube.
If you can locate a decent used press that isn't totally thrashed, you can save a few dollars. (RCBS Rockchucker, Lee Classic Cast)
A used cast iron press with a single linkage, like a RCBS JR3, will resize and load standard rifle cartridges just fine, and may be available cheaply.
I would NOT buy used dies. My experience is that these gun show specials may be scratched inside or otherwise damaged or have missing or swapped parts.
Likewise for the scale. It takes very little to screw up a beam balance if it is mishandled or dropped.
Sometimes good old orange Lyman 55 cast iron powder measures appear at gun shows, and these are surprisingly accurate, although different to adjust than the modern cylinder cavity types. They may need some cleaning though.
You will need something to use as a bench. A purpose-built 2X4 and plywood workbench works fine. Add some shelves.
Buy:
- a couple of good new reloading manuals.
- a set of dies and a shell holder from RCBS.
- a good beam balance scale from Lyman or RCBS.
- A good powder measure from RCBS, Hornaday, Lyman.
- a simple Lee Precision hand-held case trimmer (inexpensive).
- Lee Precision primer pocket cleaning tool.
- RCBS hand-held case chamfer tool.
- plastic powder funnel.
- case lube pad, case lube.
If you can locate a decent used press that isn't totally thrashed, you can save a few dollars. (RCBS Rockchucker, Lee Classic Cast)
A used cast iron press with a single linkage, like a RCBS JR3, will resize and load standard rifle cartridges just fine, and may be available cheaply.
I would NOT buy used dies. My experience is that these gun show specials may be scratched inside or otherwise damaged or have missing or swapped parts.
Likewise for the scale. It takes very little to screw up a beam balance if it is mishandled or dropped.
Sometimes good old orange Lyman 55 cast iron powder measures appear at gun shows, and these are surprisingly accurate, although different to adjust than the modern cylinder cavity types. They may need some cleaning though.
You will need something to use as a bench. A purpose-built 2X4 and plywood workbench works fine. Add some shelves.
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In a modern rifle like the Sako 85, I got a nice tip from John Barsness on a different website several years ago. He said use 260 remington data and work up.
My best loads were with 129 gr Hornady spirepoints and Re22 & H4831sc.
My best loads were with 129 gr Hornady spirepoints and Re22 & H4831sc.
No specific suggestions, but the 6.5 Swede is a great game round - good choice on your part.
So far as the scary part goes, rest assured that every new handloader has that 'Hail Mary' moment on the range before pulling the trigger on their first reloaded round. Just follow the steps in order, pay attention and, as already noted, start low.
Welcome to the hobby.
So far as the scary part goes, rest assured that every new handloader has that 'Hail Mary' moment on the range before pulling the trigger on their first reloaded round. Just follow the steps in order, pay attention and, as already noted, start low.
Welcome to the hobby.
Because all the loads are tested to be safe in an old mauser 96, not a new high quality bolt gun
