Brand new to reloading

Now that your questions have been answered - I am here to warn you about the dangers of reloading.

Reloading your first rifle shells will always lead to madness, shotgun reloading, casting, swaging, bullet comparitors, measuring OG and Lands, and Groove, slugging barrels, gas checks, swaging, punching out your wads, chasing perfect bullet performance by powder, primer, brass and bullet jump. You have been warned...lol P.S. Heading to garage to cast up 1000 124GR lead 9mm, for powder coating, then casting a couple 1000 buckshot (00), and about 200 .690 cast lead balls.... for shotgun..might do some 45 cal round balls well.

Wilcoroger said:
Hi. My wife has purchased a reloading kit as a Christmas gift for me. I'm trying to sift through the powder and primer storage regulations. They seem almost as confusing as firearm regs. So first question is:
1. I have to store powder and primer seperate, and in a wooden container, with an explosive label?
2. Can I have a reloading bench in a firearm room, where my firearms would be mounted on the wall?
3. If I can have a bench in my firearm room, does the powder and primers need to be in a locked box, or can I put the explosives sticker on the door of the room?
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rifleman762 said:
... Always, always, always: Check the cases in your reloading block after charging them all with powder. It's super quick to take a peek with a flashlight and I have caught a couple empty cases over the years...
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OttawaHunts said:
BEST PIECE of advice ever.
Click to expand...
x3

I have also caught some empty cases before I seated the projectiles over the years because I remembered to check.

For years now I have used a routine I developed that ensures there's no way I will seat a projectile in an empty or double charged case. I always measure and load powder at one end of my bench and seat projectiles at the other end of my bench. This forces me to get up out of my chair, I slide my reloading block with the charged cases down the length of the bench under a set of florescent lights. Before I sit down again at the other end of the bench at the press that's set up to seat projectiles I've had a chance to carefully visually inspect all 50 cases for the correct powder levels under the bright florescent lights located above the middle of the bench. I also use a small flashlight that's actually hanging there that's only used for this purpose. This routine works for me because it causes me to always remember to check for powder.

I have found that if the press I have set up to seat projectiles for the cartridge I'm working on is within arm's reach sooner or later I can/will inadvertently begin to start seating projectiles without visually inspecting the cases first for correct powder levels. By setting up my powder measure and scales at one end of the bench and seating projectiles at the other end of my bench I greatly reduce the chance that a mistake might happen. Ultimately you have to figure out various methods and safety procedures that will ensure you don't make mistakes. I recommend you always think of how to do things safely first, separating the reloading steps, even if it slows down your reloading speed. It's definitely not about speed for me it's all about being able to be confident that my reloads are safe to shoot for me and especially for my kids.
 
OttawaHunts said:
Now that your questions have been answered - I am here to warn you about the dangers of reloading.

Reloading your first rifle shells will always lead to madness, shotgun reloading, casting, swaging, bullet comparitors, measuring OG and Lands, and Groove, slugging barrels, gas checks, swaging, punching out your wads, chasing perfect bullet performance by powder, primer, brass and bullet jump. You have been warned...lol P.S. Heading to garage to cast up 1000 124GR lead 9mm, for powder coating, then casting a couple 1000 buckshot (00), and about 200 .690 cast lead balls.... for shotgun..might do some 45 cal round balls well.
Click to expand...

Hahaha thank you.
 
RVG_Don said:
x3

I have also caught some empty cases before I seated the projectiles over the years because I remembered to check.

For years now I have used a routine I developed that ensures there's no way I will seat a projectile in an empty or double charged case. I always measure and load powder at one end of my bench and seat projectiles at the other end of my bench. This forces me to get up out of my chair, I slide my reloading block with the charged cases down the length of the bench under a set of florescent lights. Before I sit down again at the other end of the bench at the press that's set up to seat projectiles I've had a chance to carefully visually inspect all 50 cases for the correct powder levels under the bright florescent lights located above the middle of the bench. I also use a small flashlight that's actually hanging there that's only used for this purpose. This routine works for me because it causes me to always remember to check for powder.

I have found that if the press I have set up to seat projectiles for the cartridge I'm working on is within arm's reach sooner or later I can/will inadvertently begin to start seating projectiles without visually inspecting the cases first for correct powder levels. By setting up my powder measure and scales at one end of the bench and seating projectiles at the other end of my bench I greatly reduce the chance that a mistake might happen. Ultimately you have to figure out various methods and safety procedures that will ensure you don't make mistakes. I recommend you always think of how to do things safely first, separating the reloading steps, even if it slows down your reloading speed. It's definitely not about speed for me it's all about being able to be confident that my reloads are safe to shoot for me and especially for my kids.
Click to expand...

Great advice and I will be sure to heed it. Thank you
 
Well I've run into my first problem. Some primers are very hard to go into some cases. I think I've ruined 7 or 8 primers. I used the hand priming tool that came with the kit for the first 20 I loaded. I thought wow this is junk, thinking it was the reason for ruining the primers. So now I'm priming on the press, and the same thing is happening. It leaves jagged edges on some as well. Any one run into this before and can help a newbie out?
 
some cases may have had a crimped primer.
That's usually visible as a circular indentation around the primer or some other kind
these crimps need to be removed to allow easy priming

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