Avalonthas
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toronto ON
Need some education on brass. I recently picked up a Smith and Wesson Hand Ejector in 38S&W (not 38 special). Did a deal with a good friend to get some 38 S&W blanks. To see the firearm see my original thread;
Finally have the opportunity to take her out and fire these blanks off. It was actually quite fun, as I have never show a revolver let alone a blank cartridge before. I have not fired any real ammunition yet (just picked some up today) so not sure how live firing is -- but when firing the blanks the muzzle blast was huge, it was quite awesome just for that alone!
Anyways, so I noticed the brass was not holding up to well, perhaps there was a heavy charge in the blanks, can't really say as they were from many years ago. Based on my reading I understand the caliber is of a weaker choice then other available cartridges so i didn't expect this kind of brass oddities. All brass was Dominion, but I am unaware if they were reloaded or factory - prior to firing the majority of them looked near mint factory clean but I can't be certain. As I have no reloading experience other then from what I have read, and the fact 38SW, Revolvers, and Blanks are ALL new to me, looking for a bit of education more specifically;
1) Does brass weaken over time (sitting on a shelf)
2) What was made stronger, brass of yesteryear or modern day brass
and your comments on
3) The case cracks (picture 1). I am assuming weak brass or heavy load
4) Case bulging (picture 2), and the "wrinkles" in the brass. You will also see bulging, which I see in other calibers like 9mm in my glock. Would the wrinkles be of concern preventing further reloading, or should they be shot until they begin to crack / deform in major way
5) Case swirls (picture 3). This appeared on some of the brass, but majority of it was unaffected, thus I pose the question if these swirls indicate anything specific. They were not there to start as I inspected all 50 pieces prior
6) S,all marks (picture 4). These appears on many casings. They are all uniformly an L shape or a flat horizontal line near the bottom of the case. I tried scrubbing off to ensure it wasn't dirt or grease - no go. Also ran a finger nail and knife across to feel for cracking - feels flat. Is there a such thing as a top layer cracking, as in the brass underneath those marks is still fully okay and its a showing sign of impending cracking. Or is it strictly cosmetic
Finally have the opportunity to take her out and fire these blanks off. It was actually quite fun, as I have never show a revolver let alone a blank cartridge before. I have not fired any real ammunition yet (just picked some up today) so not sure how live firing is -- but when firing the blanks the muzzle blast was huge, it was quite awesome just for that alone!
Anyways, so I noticed the brass was not holding up to well, perhaps there was a heavy charge in the blanks, can't really say as they were from many years ago. Based on my reading I understand the caliber is of a weaker choice then other available cartridges so i didn't expect this kind of brass oddities. All brass was Dominion, but I am unaware if they were reloaded or factory - prior to firing the majority of them looked near mint factory clean but I can't be certain. As I have no reloading experience other then from what I have read, and the fact 38SW, Revolvers, and Blanks are ALL new to me, looking for a bit of education more specifically;
1) Does brass weaken over time (sitting on a shelf)
2) What was made stronger, brass of yesteryear or modern day brass
and your comments on
3) The case cracks (picture 1). I am assuming weak brass or heavy load
4) Case bulging (picture 2), and the "wrinkles" in the brass. You will also see bulging, which I see in other calibers like 9mm in my glock. Would the wrinkles be of concern preventing further reloading, or should they be shot until they begin to crack / deform in major way
5) Case swirls (picture 3). This appeared on some of the brass, but majority of it was unaffected, thus I pose the question if these swirls indicate anything specific. They were not there to start as I inspected all 50 pieces prior
6) S,all marks (picture 4). These appears on many casings. They are all uniformly an L shape or a flat horizontal line near the bottom of the case. I tried scrubbing off to ensure it wasn't dirt or grease - no go. Also ran a finger nail and knife across to feel for cracking - feels flat. Is there a such thing as a top layer cracking, as in the brass underneath those marks is still fully okay and its a showing sign of impending cracking. Or is it strictly cosmetic
I get a ring around the case above the rim like in your bottom picture, but it scrubs off easily...either carbon or beeswax type crud. It's exactly matched up with the inside of the extractor star.
