brass prep

[glockgrouptherapy]

Its a reload question but this would get more M14/305/A1 shooters attention which is what I'm after.
I just tumbled a bunch of casings and noticed that the extractor was making some nasty marks on some brass. Is there a media you guys use to or prep technique to remove those burs with out hurting the brass to much?
Thanks everyone.

 

[Gobc]

I just prepped 550 cases from my M1A and they all have a deep scratch on them. I don't think there anything you can do about it. The M14 rifle is really hard on brass.

 

[Soyoman1980]

The extractor on M14's (or most semi-auto's for that matter) are hard on brass, usually you'll get a handful of reloads from those casings before they're no good. The extractors need to have an aggressive grip on casings or you'll run into ejection problems during cycling which unfortunately means some pretty serious markings on the rim of the casings. Unlike bolt action rifles, where you can usually reload 10+ times before the brass is no good.

 

[Hitzy]

The extractor on my 2013 one from Marstar would not move at all with any amount of force, felt seized. Took the bolt apart and the spring was fully compressed 100% so the extractor had no room to move. I ended up cutting the spring almost in half before it would move with a good bit of pressure applied.
I have a couple Garands that I have always loaded for, and they never wrecked bass like these norks do. That was the main difference I could determine, the extractor tension was solid but not overly stiff. With it really stiff, the ejection pattern isn't very good either, my cases would just kind pop out and land on the bench beside me. With some room for it to move, the cases really eject properly now 1-2 o'clock and land a good distance away.

 

[glockgrouptherapy]

Im getting solid ejection to the 1-2 oclock, so no worries on my extractor being to tight.

Im just worried that with the marring that the claw is doing that I don't catch the one case where a bur sticks out far enough to cause me some serious issues like a partial out of battery det.

 

[Hitzy]

It's causing the damage when it goes into battery, extractor should pop over it freely without damaging the brass. Check if you can even move the extractor on the bolt.

 

[sunray]

"...remove those burrs..." Scratches don't matter at all. Burrs on the case rim can be removed with a fine file. Crack and big chunks(isn't too likely), don't bother with. Otherwise all you need do is FL resize every time and watch the case lengths.
"...usually you'll get a handful..." Depends entirely on the load used, but post-war battle rifles do tend to throw the brass.
"...like these norks do..." It's what happens when you use slave labour on reverse engineered kit.