Brass Stuck in Shellholder - Grrr
- Thread starter pontcanna
- Start date
if the decapper is sliding straight up you must not have the collet tight enough on it ?? what brand dies are you using?
im sure you have solved the problem by now, but usualy that happens to me when the collet is not tight enough and the spindle is not down far enough to push the primer all the way out....
im sure you have solved the problem by now, but usualy that happens to me when the collet is not tight enough and the spindle is not down far enough to push the primer all the way out....
Like mbessey said.
If using Lee dies, which it sounds like, run the case back up into the die, tap the de-cap rod down more until the primer drops, then re-tighten the lock-nut (collet) on the rod spindle. If it's set too short for the next case, it will slide up inside the collet and re-set itself in use. Use wrenches on both the die body flats and the collet hex-nut to get enough friction on the rod.
If it's another make of dies, back off the lock-nut and set the de-cap rod deeper until it fully decaps the case.
Regards, DaveF.
If using Lee dies, which it sounds like, run the case back up into the die, tap the de-cap rod down more until the primer drops, then re-tighten the lock-nut (collet) on the rod spindle. If it's set too short for the next case, it will slide up inside the collet and re-set itself in use. Use wrenches on both the die body flats and the collet hex-nut to get enough friction on the rod.
If it's another make of dies, back off the lock-nut and set the de-cap rod deeper until it fully decaps the case.
Regards, DaveF.
Yeah, got the offending brass out OK, but noticed that about every third round the de-cap rod pops up again, despite my best efforts to reef on it. Yes, it is a Lee die. Will try tapping them...but suddenly .308 surplus from Wolverine or Nork steel case looks an attractive alternative to reloading...
i used to have that problem until i started in first removing the primer with a universal decapper and then resizing the case with the decapper removed, if a case gets stuck in the die now all i do is put my punch in the hole on top of the die and punch out the stuck case. a little more work but it is better than fighting with a stuck case and damaging your die.
Sometimes the spent primer is sticking on the tip of the decapping pin, and as you withdraw the case, the primer is put back into the pocket slightly. I generally use a decap only die because I prefer to tumble the cases after they've been decapped, before they are sized.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
If the decapping rod is tightened securely in the resizing die, and is still sliding up during the resizing - decapping process, it sounds as if the decapping pin is not long enough, and the decapping rod is contacting the case web, forcing it to move. By any chance are you decapping military brass which has crimped in primers? Crimped in primers can require more force to remove, but if the lock nut is tight, you should not experience any problem in that regard.
Put an unprimed resized case in the shell holder, and check to see if the decapping pin extends below the case head when the ram is at full travel. If it does, then the lock nut holding the decapping rod in the die is not tight enough, allowing the decapping rod to move.
If the decapping pin does not extend past the case head, check to see if you can adjust the decapping rod further into the die, or if you can thread the die closer to the shell holder without causing more shoulder set back than you need. If the decapping rod, and die are adjusted properly, and you cannot decap your fired cases, something is out of spec, and needs to be replaced.
Put an unprimed resized case in the shell holder, and check to see if the decapping pin extends below the case head when the ram is at full travel. If it does, then the lock nut holding the decapping rod in the die is not tight enough, allowing the decapping rod to move.
If the decapping pin does not extend past the case head, check to see if you can adjust the decapping rod further into the die, or if you can thread the die closer to the shell holder without causing more shoulder set back than you need. If the decapping rod, and die are adjusted properly, and you cannot decap your fired cases, something is out of spec, and needs to be replaced.
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Either you have crimped primer pockets and a loose (relatively) collar holding the rod, or just a loose (relatively) collar holding the rod.
When you tighten the collar, "give'er". You need a fair bit of torque to keep the rod from sliding up if the primers are tight, as in crimped.
When you tighten the collar, "give'er". You need a fair bit of torque to keep the rod from sliding up if the primers are tight, as in crimped.
- Location
- Vancouver Island BC
RCBS dies will fix that annoying problem.
I've come to the conclusion that I bought some unsuitable used .308 brass from a guy at a gun-show. Though I couldn't see any visible evidence of "military brass crimping" I know for sure that the primers came out of some quite easily (and in turn seated easily when I re-primed them) whereas others were absolute bastards.
Think I'm going to buy some recent commerical .308 and keep the brass for recycling...and get rid of most of what I have now!
Think I'm going to buy some recent commerical .308 and keep the brass for recycling...and get rid of most of what I have now!
If you are trying to decap military brass, some of it is crimped and or staked in and does not come out easily. The advantage to using the lee die is that you know when something is going wrong when the rod comes up. I had a few of those I put them aside and dealt with them later.
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also, nany statement here:
use two (2) wrenches to tighten the collet, not a pair of pliers and a wrench, or any other combo, two good solid wrenches and 'give-r' you won't wreck it
I de-prime military brass very often, as I use it for very hot .308 loads, brass deforms less in my rifle but the pin slides up every once in a while, but usually cause it got 'slimey' from the case lube etc.
Nevre broken a pin yet and I've de-capped berdan primed brass, just poked the pin out the bottom and ejected the primer and anvil, should have figured why it was soo tight!!!!
use two (2) wrenches to tighten the collet, not a pair of pliers and a wrench, or any other combo, two good solid wrenches and 'give-r' you won't wreck it
I de-prime military brass very often, as I use it for very hot .308 loads, brass deforms less in my rifle but the pin slides up every once in a while, but usually cause it got 'slimey' from the case lube etc.
Nevre broken a pin yet and I've de-capped berdan primed brass, just poked the pin out the bottom and ejected the primer and anvil, should have figured why it was soo tight!!!!
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
I had one set of lee dies do that.
Fix is easy. Take the decapping pin out, and burr it up where the collet grips it. (Mine has vise grips marks on it now)You will have a bit of difficulty getting it set, but once it is, no more hassles.
Never broke a pin on a Lee die yet. Broken lots of pins on RCBS dies, even bent the rod on one.
Both companies stand behind their products very well. Replacments have always been freebies.
Fix is easy. Take the decapping pin out, and burr it up where the collet grips it. (Mine has vise grips marks on it now)You will have a bit of difficulty getting it set, but once it is, no more hassles.
Never broke a pin on a Lee die yet. Broken lots of pins on RCBS dies, even bent the rod on one.
Both companies stand behind their products very well. Replacments have always been freebies.
My latest trick with the %*$#@*&ing rifle loading is for the "shoulder" of the brass to be slightly bulged, preventing full chambering. Also on a few rounds the actual cast bullet has slid part way down into the neck. I swear, I'm going to stick to handgun loading in the future!
