Bren gun flash hider
- Thread starter elvis3006
- Start date
almost all stainless is slightly ferromagnetic, and will stick to magnets more than copper for example. this is due to the imperfections in the lattice structure on the molecular level. in practice, its not human hand/regular strength magnet discernible, but cold working will increase the force. run a good magnet over your stainless steel sink and you will find the corners are more attracted then the flats. your milk tanks are probably similarly worked.
400 series as mentioned is even more magnetic than the 300 series used for corrosion resistance
stencollector
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
The pin is tapered. But even when you do get the pin out, the hider does not merely slip off.....they can be on there quite tight.
To get the handle sleeve off the barrel, you first remove the screw holding the handle onto the sleeve, and remove the handle. Then you punch through the uppermost little pin (which is covered by the handle base when it is installed). Note that as you withdraw your pin punch, there is a little cap and spring that are going to fly, usually never to be found again. Be ready for this and have a rag blocking it's exit.
With the spring and cap gone, you hold the handle upside down and the lower plunger will back out enough that you can slip the sleeve off. On a mk1 sleeve, there is a second pin retaining the plunger in the sleeve. In a mk2 sleeve, there is no second pin....the plunger should just fall out once you have the grease out.
The fun will come as you try and re-assemble the plunger, spring and cap. You will know what I mean when you try it.
The hider, as mentioned by others, will not take on the park or bluing to any degree.
To get the handle sleeve off the barrel, you first remove the screw holding the handle onto the sleeve, and remove the handle. Then you punch through the uppermost little pin (which is covered by the handle base when it is installed). Note that as you withdraw your pin punch, there is a little cap and spring that are going to fly, usually never to be found again. Be ready for this and have a rag blocking it's exit.
With the spring and cap gone, you hold the handle upside down and the lower plunger will back out enough that you can slip the sleeve off. On a mk1 sleeve, there is a second pin retaining the plunger in the sleeve. In a mk2 sleeve, there is no second pin....the plunger should just fall out once you have the grease out.
The fun will come as you try and re-assemble the plunger, spring and cap. You will know what I mean when you try it.
The hider, as mentioned by others, will not take on the park or bluing to any degree.
Lee Enfield
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Republic of Alberta
Peter Laidler says that bren gas blocks and flash hiders "are not true stainless" whatever that means.
"Stainless Steel" is just extremely high chromium and/ or nickel content alloyed to iron and carbon.
At the end of the day "stainless steel" actually means "rust stains less" than carbon steel.
"Stainless Steel" is just extremely high chromium and/ or nickel content alloyed to iron and carbon.
At the end of the day "stainless steel" actually means "rust stains less" than carbon steel.
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I just realized you were asking about a Mk I ... mine is a Mk II. (this is what happens when i answer posts in the middle of the night, my bad)
I guess they are made of a different steel.
And i refinished mine because when i got it (for a great price) it had been torched cut.. rewelded a bit offset and bondo was used to try to correct it.... it was a mess.
It took a lot of effort and in the end i had no choice but to paint it. For the price it turned out good.
