Brit Krummlauf

diopter

diopter

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After many years of searching for the elusive original concept for the Krummlauf STG44, success!

Ever wonder how the Tommies managed to fire their rifles outside of the Mk1 tank during the Battle of Amiens (1918)in WW1?

Fear not, you too will have an opportunity to own such a rarity. Soon.
Under 5 figures too! :D

 
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Gee!:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

From the front-sight hood, it looks like a genuine PH conversion, too!:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:

Just HOW rare is THAT????????????????????????????????????:D:D:D:D:D

I just GOTTA get one like that!!!!!!!!:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

What's the year and maker?:)
 
BSA 1918
Shame. Nice condition otherwise.
Owner is hoping to get it "fixed". Sentiment value as it was his grandad's

I'm recommending chopping off the barrel just before the bend as the cheapest way.
It's just over 18' till that point. Least it will still be matching. :)

Any other suggestions?
 
diopter said:
BSA 1918
Shame. Nice condition otherwise.
Owner is hoping to get it "fixed". Sentiment value as it was his grandad's

I'm recommending chopping off the barrel just before the bend as the cheapest way.
It's just over 18' till that point. Least it will still be matching. :)

Any other suggestions?
Click to expand...

Put another barrel on it. They are still available, and if it is for "sentiimental" value, chopping the present barrel would not be the same rifle.
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The Brits actually copied the bent barrel from Sir Charles Ross. Although few were made, here is a picture of the rare, bent barrel, 1905 Ross Military Mark II** Target rifle.
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IMGP0804.jpg

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This is a custom rifle, made to order by a relative of SMELLIE. After having been subjected to several near miss ricochets while serving in the target pits in Camp Valcartier in 1914, he decided that if someone was shooting at him, then he wanted something that he could shoot back with. Since the Ross Factory was fairly close, he then ordered this rifle, so that every time a ricochet came close, he could stick the barrel up over the top of the berm and let one go back down the range toward the firing line.
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Laugh2


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Just remove the woodwork, get a big shop press and some V-blocks and straighten the old girl out.

When it LOOKS straight, it IS straight. You have to look at it INSIDE, against the light.

Serious. The barrel-straighteners in the factory worked entirely by line of sight....... and they managed to get it right.
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I'll bet they're actually quite common. :D Those barrels are quite flimsy and I've got one in the basement. Not as bad, but I imagine doing a Bubba on the rifle doesn't help.

Grizz
 
smellie said:
Just remove the woodwork, get a big shop press and some V-blocks and straighten the old girl out.

When it LOOKS straight, it IS straight. You have to look at it INSIDE, against the light.

Serious. The barrel-straighteners in the factory worked entirely by line of sight....... and they managed to get it right.
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Click to expand...

Seriously, have a name you can recommend to try it?
PM me, otherwise, he will be bombarded by Bubbas-R-US cliental.
That would be mean
:)
 
Straightened a barrel on a Cooey .22 a good while back.
Made a jig from 2x4s. Took my time using a large vise.
Worked slick. Shoots great.
The .22 barrel steel is probably thicker than what is on this rifle.
 
Sorry, no names I can think of in your end of the world. Around here, half the farmers have the equipment to do the job and most of them know how to use it, too.

You CAN do the job on a workbench with a couple of 2x4s and a hydraulic jack for a truck. Little 3-ton bottle-jack from Princess Auto will do the job. No more than $25 tops and you get to keep the jack. Use the 2x4s high enough so the jack will fit beneath, nail them to the sides of the bench, collapse the jack. You want holes in the 2x4s, one at the front just big enough for the front sight to get through, similar at the rear. You use the action of the rifle to turn the thing. Get it into position with the lowest part of the bend straight down, put the jack under it and start pumping it up. You will have to come up HIGHER than a perfect "straight" because the steel does have some spring to it, but not too much. SLOW DOWN when it gets to the point at which it will accept a cleaning rod; don't want to go too far!

It's an eyeball job, 100%, but it can be done. After all, they did it 94 years ago, using just V-blocks and a lead hammer. YOU use the hydraulic jack because you have a LOT more bend to remove.

Don't let the old girl die from want of some TLC.

Good luck!

BTW: when does she hit the EE?????
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At the Mauser Factory in Oberndorf, in the book BBOTW, there is a picture of the barrel being straighten on a large apparatus that holds the barrel (like a big metal spoked wheel) and the operator is eyeballing it and tapping it.
 
smellie said:
Sorry, no names I can think of in your end of the world. Around here, half the farmers have the equipment to do the job and most of them know how to use it, too.
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Click to expand...

I don`t doubt your knowledge even a little bit.
And I agree a hydraulic press or jack will work well.

There is lots of equipment and know how around here.
However if I ever have to do this again. I will still opt for the vise or similar.
Easier to control of the pressure applied.
 
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As long as you have about 6 inches of fairly straight barrel from the muzzle end, you could straighten the barrel as Smellie described, It was found that the last 6 inches of a barrel is the critical part.

I once bought a Voere .308 rifle really cheap because it had a barrel that was run over by a car, and it was worse than this one. I bolted two wooden hardwood blocks about a foot apart on a good bench, and then one more block centered below them, sort of an upside-down triangle. A small hydraulic jack that had another block on the ram was laid horizontally on the single block, and carefull pressure was applied to the bend in the barrel. A piece of chalk marked the high side, and several applications of pressure against the barrel, a little at a time, were used. Also, after each application, the barrel was "rolled" across a large piece of glass on a table, and the "wobble" indicated the high spot each time. Eventually, the "wobble" got less and less, and the barrel go straightened out. When bending this way, you actually have to overbend slightly as the steel barrel tends to spring back a bit.

The result with the Voere was that it ended up shooting about 1 1/4 inch groups at 100 yards. Not bad for a light Hunting Rifle that I had originally bought for salvage and for the action.
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