Broken Glock Trigger Guard. Repair suggestions

If you decide to plastic weld it get a gen 4 back strap to use as sacrificial filler and practice material. A hot staple will leave little metal nubbins that should be covered with some filler, a stipple job on the front of the trigger guard would hide that. Most hot staple guns will "glow" the staple which means the metal is hot enough to degrade the nylon by burning it. Because of the gap it looks like this will be a stressed repair, clamping it closed will add stress to the repair that should be reinforced by either metal or glass fibers.
Finding a small enough screw with a coarse enough thread appropriate for plastic might be challenging.

Adhesive repairs on nylon are only suitable for cosmetic repairs, not structural.

Check out the info for PA6 (nylon) at the link below
https://www.polyvance.com/_pdf/thebook.pdf
 
North Sylva has new Glock frames.

As far as I know, a (registered-grandfathered) 'prohibited' handgun frame and a (registered-grandfathered) 'restricted' handgun frame can be replaced if it is necessary, by someone like North Sylva, and (if they're going to do it) they can also have the CFP make the necessary changes (e.g.: the frame's new serial number) to the registration certificate.

I'd contact North Sylva.

In for info on this!

With the amount of PDP frame failures I have seen online, if this is true it would be a real good piece of information to have for the future.
 
North Sylva has new Glock frames.

As far as I know, a (registered-grandfathered) 'prohibited' handgun frame and a (registered-grandfathered) 'restricted' handgun frame can be replaced if it is necessary, by someone like North Sylva, and (if they're going to do it) they can also have the CFP make the necessary changes (e.g.: the frame's new serial number) to the registration certificate.

I'd contact North Sylva.

No mechanism exists for you to replace any damaged frame under the current legislation, discussed this with the Glock manager for Canada who unfortunately said no replacement frames available for broken/damaged frames. ☹️

gadget
 
If you decide to plastic weld it get a gen 4 back strap to use as sacrificial filler and practice material. A hot staple will leave little metal nubbins that should be covered with some filler, a stipple job on the front of the trigger guard would hide that. Most hot staple guns will "glow" the staple which means the metal is hot enough to degrade the nylon by burning it. Because of the gap it looks like this will be a stressed repair, clamping it closed will add stress to the repair that should be reinforced by either metal or glass fibers.
Finding a small enough screw with a coarse enough thread appropriate for plastic might be challenging.

Adhesive repairs on nylon are only suitable for cosmetic repairs, not structural.

Check out the info for PA6 (nylon) at the link below
https://www.polyvance.com/_pdf/thebook.pdf

Using a spare back strap is a good idea. I don't use them and completely forgot they even exist.
 
No mechanism exists for you to replace any damaged frame under the current legislation, discussed this with the Glock manager for Canada who unfortunately said no replacement frames available for broken/damaged frames. ☹️

gadget

I was pretty skeptical even after the supposed confirmation. Thanks for the first-hand information.
 
I'd maybe speak with someone like Blackbox Customs to see if they have any thoughts or experience with a repair of this nature.
 
Ya. Close bystander. A possible incident could occur, but this shooters handling of his handgun is quite accurate even at 1:37 in the video. in short, competitive shooting sports have this handgun user focused, requiring extreme concentration for shot placements. So no worry this time. A unexperienced user could have been a different story. It's about logistics in area planning and objects including bystanders be located in no go areas marked clearly. As this handgun user could have called unsafe shooting and holstered his gun and passed this event.
 
I would probably construct a jig to drill vertically(from bottom all the way to top) small through holes (maybe 4?) to run strong strings through it. Leave a slot for the knot, then fill hole and slot with epoxy after. Probably reserve one hole for a solid pin so the seam won’t move side to side, but basically rely on the string(s) to pull the seam together.
 
I like the idea of a backstrap as a test. I was thinking Super Glue, but don't know if it would work on a frame.

Is the backstrap made of the same material as the frame? might not be.

Glock only uses one plastic and Super-Glue will certainly produce a strong bond. Given how much a glock flame flexes when fired I'm not sure anything will last very long though.
 
If there is a bonding agent or repair technique, Glock will know. If they can't help, you are on your own. Experimentation on a back strap makes a lot of sense.
Everything from cyanoacrylate to string to screws has been suggested.
Looking at the gap, it is apparent that there was residual stress in the piece. That ties in with the flexing mentioned above.
If I were compelled to undertake a repair, I would use a bonding agent plus a threaded rod, up through from the bottom. Something like the brass threaded rod used to reinforce Remington stocks.
 
Glock got back to me with no repair suggestions and confirmed no replacements available under the current political climate, but indicated they would gladly replace it if that wasn't the case.

There wasn't enough room to comfortably drill a hole from either the top or the bottom so this is the route I went.

I drilled 2 1mm holes from the front, above and below the crack and then sutured it together with .032 aircraft safety wire twisting it to tighten it. Then melted the twisted end into the front of the trigger guard. Then melted a couple dimples on the break to help seal it together. It's not cosmetically pretty, but hey, we all have scars.

I shot with it last night and it feels very solid with no movement. The next step is waiting on a Glock back strap to arrive that I can use low heat and melt to build some material over the stitch and then eventually stipple. I'm also contemplating some JB Plastic Weld that I was reading about in one of the US forums. Will depend on how my melting tests go.

Luckily I've got other frames so this can get depreciated to last tier until the opportunity comes to get a replacement. Then I'll buy two. :)

Thanks for all your suggestions.
 
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